Main Bearing Girdle.

[scotsprint]

A recent thread had a photo of a sprint engine with a main bearing girdle/ sandwich plate. Could the person that posted that picture please give more information and details of this modification. The plate seemed to be bolted to the bottom of the block but is it connected to the main bearing caps? Information to allow me to do the same job would be welcomed.

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[Carsreunited]

It was Garths car (Speedracer)..................<br>
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<!--EZCODE IMAGE START--><img src="http://www.triumphowners.com/uploaded/3 ... p_0817.jpg" style="border:0;"/><!--EZCODE IMAGE END--><br>
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Scott<!--EZCODE EMOTICON START ;) --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/im ... s/wink.gif ALT=";)"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END-->

<p></p><i>Edited by: <A HREF=http://p206.ezboard.com/bthetriumphdolo ... eunited</A> at: 27/8/05 10:54 am<br></i>

[Mark Larmour]

I think that the above photo is actually from Stephen Grellett in Dunedin NZ.<br>
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We use a similar type of system as Stephen on our race motors, but we all have different ideas on securing the plate. The method that we use is that the plate is secured to the main bearing caps using custom made studs. The studs are screwed into the block, then the main bearing caps is fitted and secured with nuts. A spacer is then fitted which takes up the distance to the girdle plate. Then the plate is fitted and a nut is screwed onto the stud. The outer edge of the plate is secured using the original sump bolts, some dowel pins, counter sunk screw etc. The spacers are all made to size so that the plate has a few thou of preload across the main bearing caps. Al though there is a lot of work in fitting and sorting out the girdle plate we have found that since using the them we no longer have problems in cracking the blocks or tearing the rear main cap out of the block.<br>
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If you are interested we have just had a batch of high tensile studs made for this installation.<br>
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PS. As I found out yesterday at our latest race meeting, it does not retain a broken conrod from coming out of the side of the block.

<p><!--EZCODE LINK START--><a href="http://www.sprintparts.triumphowners.com">SPRINTPARTS</a><!--EZCODE LINK END--></p><i></i>

[scotsprint]

Thanks Mark. This is just the sort of information I wanted. How thick is the plate and does yours have additional drain holes for the oil returning to the sump?<br>
Should the plate be surfaced and is there a gasket or sealant between it and the bottom of the block?

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[Stephen Grellet]

I think the photo is of Ian Cowies motor in Australia. On my motor I have made steel main bearing caps which extend to the bottom face of the block. These are retained by long nuts fitted to studs in the block. I have machined the block and the top of the bearing caps and the nuts level.The plate is 12 mm and has been ground flat. I have just made up a new plate which is bolted to the block by the normal sump bolts. I have cast a new aluminium sump and have fitted this on a new set of bolts inside the standard sump bolts. I did this to try to stop oil leaks and also so I could pull the plate down tighter on the block with out having to worry about squashing the gasket out. I have used a product called 3 Bond as used on Subarus to seal the plate. So far it seems to have worked.

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[milesinfront]

I discovered 3 bond a couple of years back when working on my 2 stroke jet ski motor!<br>
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It is the gasket goo Jesus would use if he were building engines!!! <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :D --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/im ... /happy.gif ALT=":D"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <br>
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Love it!!!!

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[KLJ895W]

Brian Kitley also lists a block brace on his website although there are no pictures so I don't know what it looks like.<br>
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<!--EZCODE LINK START--><a href="http://www.briankitleytriumphs.co.uk/list.html" target="top">BKT</a><!--EZCODE LINK END--><br>
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NTDWM<br>
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David

<p>1980 Sprint<br>
1980 1850HL with Sprint gearbox, propshaft and axle<br>
1972 VW Camper Van</p><i></i>

[Dolly racer 33]

I have block girdle kits & studs if you are interested.

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