Buying a house

[algtj]

New to this house buying thing, any advice would be helpful.<br>
Solicitor quoted £900 odd quid is normal?<br>
Anyone know a decent solicitor (read cheap!) in Lincoln and a surveyor.<br>
I have put an offer in which was accepted, got a mortgage in principle from my bank (Nastywest)<br>
what next?<br>
The other Al <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :( --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/frown.gif ALT=":("><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END-->

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[Carsreunited]

You need to get a survey done. Few different options there. Solicitors vary from £400 to £1200. I'm wary of the cheap ones. Most estate agents have a preferred partner thing and they quote about £750

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[alun n]

Call Susan Morrissy at Thursfields in Kidderminster, she does stirling work for me and for rather less than you have been quoted.( A different Susan to Susie by the way, one is business, one is pleasure.)<br>
<br>
The solicitor doesn't need to be local most of the time unless there is something wrong with the title; mention my name and you might get a better deal if she's willing. Call me tomorrow and I'll give you her number.

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[Jon Tilson]

the solictor needs to be approved by whoever is lending you the money to do the final funds transfer, If they arent, you will have to pay extra for one who is to just do the financial bits...basically holding the money from the lender so its ready for the completion. This can cost a bit because of the insurance liability among other things so be sure you compare like with like. While the cheap one may do a fine job with surveys and searches etc they may not be approved financially and will then find you someone who is to do the financial stuff and pass on the charges that they wont have originally quoted you...<br>
I havent moved in a while but I think it was about 1000 for a buy and sell on a detached london house. I have changed lenders but they did the legal stuff foc...<br>
They dont need to be local but it helps when you need to see them. Main thing is they go that extra mile when doing searches...you dont want to find a new sewage plant or nuclear power station planning application going in just outside the "area of interest" and not knowing about it! Good ones will have planning office contacts and ask extra questions...Be especialy careful of borders on "green belt" farms, where changes of status are going through. That country nook can them be part of a chav housing estate before you know it!.<br>
<br>
Jonners<br>


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[alun n]

You will have no problems with Susan; she represents many of my commercial Clients.

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[algtj]

Thanks guys, can't really see a problem with power stations as its on a river bank between two country pubs next to an active airfield...... Heaven! <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :lol --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/laugh.gif ALT=":lol"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <br>
Al, will call you tomorrow. <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :D --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/happy.gif ALT=":D"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END-->

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[Jon Tilson]

That's what they said about Dounreay....<br>
(is that how you spell it).<br>
Actually old airfields are indeed a favoured sight for nuclear power stations, but I suppose I'm just jealous...<br>
<br>
Jonners

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[algtj]

<!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :lol --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/laugh.gif ALT=":lol"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> This airfield will be open til the next time Noah builds a boat! <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :lol --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/laugh.gif ALT=":lol"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END-->

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[alun n]

...ground source heat pump under flowing water = nearly free heating Mate, no need for gas or oil, just a little compressor to run every day!

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[tinweevil]

Only effective in underfloor installations apparantly so no good in most uk properties.<br>
<br>
Next to a river tho, at lest you are in the right location workwise to borrow a noisemaker to deal with the rats <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :x --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/sick.gif ALT=":x"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <br>
<br>
Big garage and drive?<br>
<br>
Good luck<br>
Julian

<p>1978 <!--EZCODE LINK START--><a href="http://www.triumphowners.com/704">Dolomite Sprint</a><!--EZCODE LINK END--> Blue, a bit tetley.<br>
1972 <!--EZCODE LINK START--><a href="http://www.triumphowners.com/754">Spitfire IV</a><!--EZCODE LINK END--> No name, in bits.<br>
1968 <!--EZCODE LINK START--><a href="http://www.triumphowners.com/705">GT6 II</a><!--EZCODE LINK END--> Little blue, nice!<br>
1973 <!--EZCODE LINK START--><a href="http://www.triumphowners.com/755">Dolomite Sprint</a><!--EZCODE LINK END--> VA41, seriously tetley.<br>
1980 <!--EZCODE LINK START--><a href="http://www.triumphowners.com/864">Dolomite 1500HL</a><!--EZCODE LINK END--> Orange, current daily drive.</p><i></i>

[alun n]

Absolutely fine with underfloor heating. Max output temp is about 65 degrees, so if used with rads they need to be about 30% oversized.

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[algtj]

Cool! <br>
But lets put this into perspective. Mid terrace in a row of three. Basically a two up two down type of thing, so underfloor heating a tad over the top.<br>
Was thinking more along the lines of an Aga for cooking, heating and hot water.<br>
Mind you, Sophie's floordrobe would be warm in winter <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :lol --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/laugh.gif ALT=":lol"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <br>
(ducks for cover!)<br>
Managed to get a new solicitor today by a chance conversation at work, a hell of a lot cheaper (Thanks anyway Alun) and a better mortgage offer than previously due to another work mate!<br>
As the old saying goes "its not what you know"<br>
No garage, but parking for one Dolomite! But as I have a vast area for parking at my workplace (I won't say secure... read other post about thieving scum) I don't forsee major drama's with storage.<br>
Looking for a little boat now! <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :D --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/happy.gif ALT=":D"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :D --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/happy.gif ALT=":D"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :D --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/happy.gif ALT=":D"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <br>
<br>
Al W

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[SMIFTER]

Ground Source Heat pumps are a very good idea if the conditions are appropriate. Calorex and Veissman do a good range of domestic sized units. Its not free though, You still need a reasonable electricity load to run the compressor on the heat pump system and electricity is twice the price of gas or oil so you need to assess the economics carefully (unless you have a big wallet and cover the house with PV panels and fit a micro wind turbine to power the compressor). You'll need to discuss the heat exchanger pipes with the EA to get consent also.<br>
<br>
If you dont want gas or oil heating and to be at the mercy of energy suppliers prices consider Biomass heating boilers (wood chip or pellet). Almost Zero Carbon emissions if supplied from sustainable forests and fuel is cheap.

<p><!--EZCODE LINK START--><a href="http://www.smifter1971.pwp.blueyonder.c ... >Smifter's Dolomite Sprint Website</a><!--EZCODE LINK END--><br>
<br>
Scary XE powered 1974 Dolomite Sprint Trackday Experiment. Maybe someday soon<br>
<br>
2002 Octavia VRS - 20 valves, leather, a turbo and 146mph - Czech it out!! </p><i></i>

[algtj]

I think you guy's are delving a little deep. <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :D --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/happy.gif ALT=":D"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <br>
The river maybe a source of power if the flow was at a considerably greater velocity.....<br>
I am more inclined to throw the odd work supplied fish inhibitor (explosive) to catch my dinner, than power the house by water.<br>
At the moment as an update I have the builders popping around for quotes on the damp course throughout the ground floor, wood worm in the roof timbers and roof tile repairs.<br>
Nick a mate of mine (Al and Jod have spanked his SD1) viewed the place and gave me a few pointers before I involved surveying the place. <br>
Hopefully I can bring the price down to reflect the remedial work required.<br>
Thoughts on this?

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[alun n]

Silicone injection damp couse about £30 per linear metre...maximum. There are good systems and shite systems but cost about the same; run the quotes by me in due course and I'll advise on quality; if they mention 'creams' or 'emulsions' forget them. If its an old cottage with stone walls with a rubble fill you are throwing your money away anyway. If it is a terraced house or semi detached you will need a Party Wall Agreement with the neighbours to inject into the shared walls...even if you only do your side, which again would be of limited use/value unless theirs have been done previously. Plaster needs to come off to minimum of 1metre above floor level to get rid of the salts in the plaster caused by the damp, plaster needs to be replaced with a render (sand cement) or dry lining afterwards, neither of which should bridge the line of holes...<br>
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Woodworm treatment by the same bloke at the same time no more than £50 per room, every fourth floor board lifted.<br>
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The flow of the river means you get a better transfer of heat than from still water or ground sources.<br>
<br>
I didn't spank his 4.6v8, I treated with the 'respect' such a tool deserves!

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