12 flats down? And the rest!!

[KLJ895W]

I've gone well down from 12 flats and things are still getting faster! Can someone confirm that zero is when the top of the jet is flush with the top of the jet bearing? Has anyone else found they needed to go very low? I was thinking of getting the needles out to check which they are, but they're all the same at the top anyway so shouldn't make a difference at idle. I guess a low level in the float chamber would mean the jet needed to come down, but I checked the floats when rebuilding the carbs and they seemd right. It's probably all fine and the jets just need to come down another couple of flats, but it's hard to convince yourself when things seem to be outside the normal range. I'll check for air leaks and ignition timing again just to make sure. Any other ideas?<br>
<br>
David

<p>1980 Sprint<br>
1980 1850HL with Sprint gearbox, propshaft and axle<br>
1972 VW Camper Van</p><i></i>

[MalcGE]

Start with jet flush with bridge, down 12 flats and up or down as required. I have to go up quite a few flats to get the CO anywhere near the MOT limit. Down more sounds a bit Kenco to me, really rich <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :rolleyes --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/im ... s/eyes.gif ALT=":rolleyes"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END-->

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[KLJ895W]

That was my point. It's definitely not rich yet but I'm about 14 down! I think I'll wind them back up to check and start again. Leaky water pump is top of the list at the moment though.<br>
<br>
David

<p>1980 Sprint<br>
1980 1850HL with Sprint gearbox, propshaft and axle<br>
1972 VW Camper Van</p><i></i>

[Jon Tilson]

on waxtstat carbs here or have they been swapped?<br>
<br>
I reckon you may have the wrong needles.<br>
<br>
Jonners

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[KLJ895W]

The needles were in the carbs already before I rebuilt them. I've done the 2p conversion, but that shouldn't make a difference if I've wound them up to flush to get a zero point. I was wondering if the needles could sit a bit low if not inserted fully into the pistons? I haven't checked which needles are in there yet as I've been too busy with the water pump, but I think they were BBT, certainly one of the usual 3 options (BBT, BDQ, BCM). The fat end of the needle is pretty much the same for all of them anyway, so shouldn't affect the idle setting. I'll have to check everything again and see if I've done anything silly.<br>
<br>
David

<p>1980 Sprint<br>
1980 1850HL with Sprint gearbox, propshaft and axle<br>
1972 VW Camper Van</p><i></i>

[Jon Tilson]

on yer own petard then mate....<br>
No way are your 2p conversions gonna be in the same place as the genuine article....<br>
I think there is enough margin for error to not be too woriied and keep going down..<br>
Ive got an 1850 with the burlen non waxtat conversion thats about 5 turns down and still too weak....<br>
<br>
Jonners.

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[KLJ895W]

I didn't say that the 2p conversion would be in the same place, but that if you wind it up until it's flush and then count down from there it shouldn't matter. BCM needles by the way and they are mounted with the holder flush with the bottom of the piston. I guess if some people are a bit keen and shove them right into the piston, then they wouldn't need the jet down as far. Water pump is fixed so I should be able to concentrate on this now.<br>
<br>
David

<p>1980 Sprint<br>
1980 1850HL with Sprint gearbox, propshaft and axle<br>
1972 VW Camper Van</p><i></i>