Stromberg CD175 Carbs
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Stromberg CD175 Carbs
Anyone on this board capable of stripping these down and rebuilding them with the necessary new bits?<br>
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I've got four (maybe 6) that need doing and I'd rather pay a 'friend' than some unknown company.<br>
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Failing that, any recommendations?<br>
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BTW, four of them are four my V12 Daimler and the other two are on the Stag. The Daimler ones have been sitting on the car for 6 years unused and need a good sorting out.<br>
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Cheers,<br>
<br>
Scott
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I've got four (maybe 6) that need doing and I'd rather pay a 'friend' than some unknown company.<br>
<br>
Failing that, any recommendations?<br>
<br>
BTW, four of them are four my V12 Daimler and the other two are on the Stag. The Daimler ones have been sitting on the car for 6 years unused and need a good sorting out.<br>
<br>
Cheers,<br>
<br>
Scott
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Re: Stromberg CD175 Carbs
Personally I would throw them in the bin and get some su`s for the Jag otherwise Burlen fuel systems are very good.
<p>1976 Dolomite 1850 HL<br>
1979 Dolomite 1500 soon to be 1850<br>
1989 Mini 1340 Race Car<br>
1998 Fiat Bravo TD100</p><i></i>
<p>1976 Dolomite 1850 HL<br>
1979 Dolomite 1500 soon to be 1850<br>
1989 Mini 1340 Race Car<br>
1998 Fiat Bravo TD100</p><i></i>
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Its not that hard...
Strombergs arent that bad to do typically. The problem is in finding good quality diaphrams. The diapharm issue makes me tend to agree with dollysteve and say replace with SU's when you can...so Ive don that on my early 1850's. The other feature is that the float chamberis integral and so fixing a stck float valve is a pain.<br>
I'm not sure you have the option of SU's on either of your cars. The Jag would be best changed to the later injection system but I expect you prefer to keep it original.<br>
I would normally be up for this kind of work but I'm a bit snowed under with IT work at present. How quick a turnaround do you need?<br>
Jon<br>
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I'm not sure you have the option of SU's on either of your cars. The Jag would be best changed to the later injection system but I expect you prefer to keep it original.<br>
I would normally be up for this kind of work but I'm a bit snowed under with IT work at present. How quick a turnaround do you need?<br>
Jon<br>
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Turnaround
Thanks for the replies. I would prefer to keep it original short of winning the lottery and having it fast road tuned with downdraught webers.<br>
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I would probably need them doing inside 4 weeks as the car is sitting in someones workshop and I don't know how patient he would be......<br>
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Scott
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I would probably need them doing inside 4 weeks as the car is sitting in someones workshop and I don't know how patient he would be......<br>
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Scott
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Re: Burlens
...will sell you anything you need and it all comes in a nice original Zenith box.<br>
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But...<br>
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Jonners is right about the diaphragms. Mine that I rebuilt last year (easy done - just take it steady) is already "sloppy" and thus I am now going down the road of conversion to SU. I have got a little fed up of carrying a spare diaphragm everywhere...
<p>Martin<br>
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1968 Triumph 1300FWD<br>
2002 BMW 320d<br>
2002 Renault Scenic<br>
<br>
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But...<br>
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Jonners is right about the diaphragms. Mine that I rebuilt last year (easy done - just take it steady) is already "sloppy" and thus I am now going down the road of conversion to SU. I have got a little fed up of carrying a spare diaphragm everywhere...
<p>Martin<br>
<br>
1968 Triumph 1300FWD<br>
2002 BMW 320d<br>
2002 Renault Scenic<br>
<br>
</p><i></i>
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Carbs
Commercial rates for a fully reconditioned CD175 carb are around £95 from Northampton motorsport. I haven't got £400 to spend on a car that still might be knackered with good carbs on it. Burlens I'm sure can do the necessary but the cost is the big issue at the moment which is why I put it to the board. I appreciate the advice Martin, I should have explained my situation better with hindsight!<br>
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Re: Carbs
From memory, the pukka rebuilt kit from Burlens cost me about £18 (obviously for a single unit).<br>
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On this basis, rebuilding them yourself at around £60-70 all done is your cheapest route and will enable you to at least get the car up and running - even if you may be looking at repeating the process in 12 to 18 months.<br>
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This would seem your best choice. If the carbs have sat for that long the diaphragms will definitely be shot.
<p>Martin<br>
<br>
1968 Triumph 1300FWD<br>
2002 BMW 320d<br>
2002 Renault Scenic<br>
<br>
</p><i></i>
<br>
On this basis, rebuilding them yourself at around £60-70 all done is your cheapest route and will enable you to at least get the car up and running - even if you may be looking at repeating the process in 12 to 18 months.<br>
<br>
This would seem your best choice. If the carbs have sat for that long the diaphragms will definitely be shot.
<p>Martin<br>
<br>
1968 Triumph 1300FWD<br>
2002 BMW 320d<br>
2002 Renault Scenic<br>
<br>
</p><i></i>
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DIY
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Maybe I should learn how to do it myself if they are going to need rebuilding regularly.....<br>
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I've heard mention of a special tool needed on the Strommys. Is that true?<br>
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Maybe I should learn how to do it myself if they are going to need rebuilding regularly.....<br>
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I've heard mention of a special tool needed on the Strommys. Is that true?<br>
<br>
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The later....
strombergs need a special tool to set the jet up mixture wise. Its basically a long allen key that winds a screw in the piston to move the needle up or down. This fits down the inside of a key thing to hold said piston still cos if you didnt, turning the screw would turn the piston too and tear the diaphram. Its a crap arrangement quite honestly but it does just about work. You can change the diaphram in about 10 minutes with a screwdriver. It has 2 nobbly bits in the rubber egde so you only fit it one way. If you miss that then the air holes are in the wrong place and the piston doenst suck up and down...so the car idles fine but wont rev.or your twin carb car becomes totally gutless..everyone does it once.<br>
Course on an SU the same would apply but the piston has a slotted key so you cant put it in wrong...<br>
Probably patented so Stromberg couldnt copy it...the reason for the diaphram in the first place.<br>
Really dont like them....<br>
Jonners<br>
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Course on an SU the same would apply but the piston has a slotted key so you cant put it in wrong...<br>
Probably patented so Stromberg couldnt copy it...the reason for the diaphram in the first place.<br>
Really dont like them....<br>
Jonners<br>
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Re: The later....
"Probably patented so Stromberg couldnt copy it...the reason for the diaphram in the first place."<br>
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Standard got the job of making carbs during WW2. In the late '50's, they got the strange idea that SU (owned by BMC) were not giving BMC competitors the same deal as they were giving the BMC companies. So Standard Triumph got a copy of the SU patents and using their WW2 experience, sat down to design a CV (CD) carb that didn't infringe any patents. Resulting in the Stromberg, which they then sold to Zenith.<br>
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As I said in an earlier thread; Triumph's own carb, if several decades younger than the SU design.<br>
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<p>Adrian, 340<br>
<br>
Dolomite 1500HL daily driver<br>
2000MK1 Auto... it will live again!<br>
Stag-in-bits</p><i></i>
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Standard got the job of making carbs during WW2. In the late '50's, they got the strange idea that SU (owned by BMC) were not giving BMC competitors the same deal as they were giving the BMC companies. So Standard Triumph got a copy of the SU patents and using their WW2 experience, sat down to design a CV (CD) carb that didn't infringe any patents. Resulting in the Stromberg, which they then sold to Zenith.<br>
<br>
As I said in an earlier thread; Triumph's own carb, if several decades younger than the SU design.<br>
<br>
<p>Adrian, 340<br>
<br>
Dolomite 1500HL daily driver<br>
2000MK1 Auto... it will live again!<br>
Stag-in-bits</p><i></i>
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- Joined: Sun Aug 17, 2003 6:45 pm
Re: carbs
Update is engine 'no go' = 'no fun'.<br>
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I need to learn a hell of alot.<br>
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Jonners. If I turn up at your place with a carb and a rebuild kit and pay you for your time of course, do you fancy taking me through the process and then I can hopefully do the remaining 5 carbs on my own???
<p></p><i></i>
<br>
I need to learn a hell of alot.<br>
<br>
Jonners. If I turn up at your place with a carb and a rebuild kit and pay you for your time of course, do you fancy taking me through the process and then I can hopefully do the remaining 5 carbs on my own???
<p></p><i></i>
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- Joined: Sat Mar 08, 2003 8:28 pm
Also....
implemented by others in primcipal as well...the ford VV is like a half baked stromberg,,,,downdraught with no dashpot and damper but still a needle valve and a vacuum operated piston...<br>
And the GM Varajet has a vacum operated valve on one choke controlling a needle valve jet too....<br>
<br>
but the SU is the original and best. I like it best in HS6 or HD8 form with the seperate float chambers...but respect to the HIFs on the MGB with the temp adjusting bimetel thingy thats much better than the waxstats<br>
Jonners
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And the GM Varajet has a vacum operated valve on one choke controlling a needle valve jet too....<br>
<br>
but the SU is the original and best. I like it best in HS6 or HD8 form with the seperate float chambers...but respect to the HIFs on the MGB with the temp adjusting bimetel thingy thats much better than the waxstats<br>
Jonners
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you're engine
you're being very coy united, maybe you,ve not got to the bottom of the problem yet,please tell me more !!!!!!
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Carb Loading
The HiF has a slightly better dashpot design (other than that bloody circlip), IMO, and a higher cfm for a given size compared to the HS series.<br>
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As for Strombergs, I hate them. Never had a car with a Stromberg that's been trouble free.
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As for Strombergs, I hate them. Never had a car with a Stromberg that's been trouble free.
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