Dripping SUs

[2F45T4U]

I've fixed the leak of petrol at the back of the car but it still reaks of petrol when you shut it off, not that noticeable as youve been driving. I was looking everywhere for a leak in the engine bay. I thought it was the float chamber at first, then the fuel pump, as theres a blow from the underneath (left hand side if standing on the drivers side), petrol doesnt seem to be dripping out but maybe a vapour? Im also thinking theres supposed to be a hole there to prevent a vacuum possibly???<br>
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Anyways I canceld them out when I saw fuel dripping back out the carbs when I shut the engine off! I had the air box off at the time to aid visibility round all the conections. At the bottom of the air box theres a seal that seems to of been damaged by petrol and it smells of petrol.<br>
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What work must I undertake now.... This cars worth it though <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :D --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/im ... /happy.gif ALT=":D"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <br>
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*Anybody? I drive round with one hand on the wheel and the other on the fireextinguisher now just in case <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :lol --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/im ... /laugh.gif ALT=":lol"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> *<br>
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Adam

<p></p><i>Edited by: <A HREF=http://p206.ezboard.com/bthetriumphdolo ... 2F45T4U</A>  <IMG HEIGHT=10 WIDTH=10 SRC="http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b5 ... bNW7hu4ZtQ" BORDER=0> at: 12/9/05 8:18 am<br></i>

[Jon Tilson]

The fuel shouldnt be above the level of the small whole at the top of the jet. If it is, the float chamber has too much fuel. Float valve not working, float sinking, not fotted at correct angle etc etc.<br>
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Waxstats sometime cause trouble here too....if the pellet collapses they run too rich and leak.<br>
Jonners

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[2F45T4U]

is there a cut off date for waxstats? mines a 77 1850 if it helps. <br>
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I dont think anyone can afford to be dripping petrol at this time <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :lol --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/im ... /laugh.gif ALT=":lol"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <br>
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Adam

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[dollyboy]

adam, me old fella, have you traced exactly where the fuel is coming from? that'd be a good start me thinks. is it coming from one or both of the breather tubes or somewhere else?<br>
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If you've never done it before, I'd take the lot off (making sure you keep a mental note, or better still pictures of where it all goes), including float chambers. clean nicely, maybe service kit i.e. seals/gaskets etc if required, put back together as per manual, job done.<br>
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i'd also check fuel pipes from pump to carbs, rubber perishes, those horrid little spring clips (grrrrrr nasty things) get tired etc, tighten up/new clips etc as required.<br>
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... but dont lsiten to me bud, I havent got a clue what im on about, my answer to everything is clean it and put it back together, at least it'll all be shiny, even if it doesnt work!<br>
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<p></p><i>Edited by: <A HREF=http://p206.ezboard.com/bthetriumphdolo ... ollyboy</A> at: 12/9/05 6:10 pm<br></i>

[2F45T4U]

yer its dripping petrol back out the carbs... I watched it do it right in front of my very eyes, the buggers! <br>
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Theres a short cut job to doing the float chambers, an elderly gent was telling me, something to do with adding washers.... Should of bloody listened!<br>
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Adam

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[BDN712V]

Sorry if I've missed anything, but is the fuel coming from the overflow on the float chambers? If so, check for grit preventing the valve shutting off supply / wear in the valve / seat. Just done mine and it makes quite a bit of difference to the old petrol smell!<br>
Tim

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[2F45T4U]

the leaking petrol comes from the carbs. When I shut the engine off it drips back out, about 20ml from each carb. I felt the over flows nd they seem to be getting used frequently... Theres a trick to sort it out. I was told it before by an elderly fella after he saw my 1300. Something to do with adding washers. Unless I know for certain (or close to it) I can do it within the weekend its to risky to take it apart and have no car for college or work.....

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[davepoth]

I would get a carb overhaul kit, including jets and needles, as well as the rubber hoses that are on the carbs. The whole lot should take about a whole weekend, and then it should work properly on the monday. Or just junk them and get twin Webers.<!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :D --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/im ... /happy.gif ALT=":D"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END-->

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[2F45T4U]

Id love to give this car twin webbers, fast road cam, tt manifold nd sports pipe..... I think my wallet will only allow, sports pipe nd carb trumpets <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :lol --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/im ... /laugh.gif ALT=":lol"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <br>
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Am I looking at about £400 to get the manifold and twin webbers?

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[dollysteve]

Don`t bother with the webers, it`s really a very expensive way of got not much more power, get a stainless sports exhaust and fit some TR7 carbs and manifold. Unless you plan on doing an engine rebuild don`t bother with the cam either, why would you want to put a hot cam in a worn engine, at best it might just produce the same power a standard recon unit would put out. You will have heard it on here lots but really you don`t want open trumpets on your carbs as the engine will be drawing un filtered hot air, that alone will hinder power and it means that it will quite happily suck in any debris that happens to cross the path of the carbs. Rig up some kind of cold air feed to the standard air box.

<p>1976 Dolomite 1850 HL Auto<br>
1979 Dolomite 1850 HL Man o/d<br>
1989 Noisy Mini 1340 <br>
1994 VW Golf GTI</p><i></i>

[2F45T4U]

TR 7 carbs and manifold it is then <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :D --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/im ... /happy.gif ALT=":D"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <br>
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Now I have no reason to fix my fuel leak or exhaust blow! Broken? ahh just replace with modified parts <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :D --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/im ... /happy.gif ALT=":D"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <br>
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Is it a straight foreward swap for the carbs and manifold?<br>
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Ooooh I cant wait <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :D --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/im ... /happy.gif ALT=":D"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <br>
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Cheers ,Adam

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[dollysteve]

Yes pretty straight forward, you need to make sure you have the TR7 heater pipe though, the one that goes from the underside of the manifold to the waterpump cover, also on a TR7 there is an outlet on the back of the head, it`s worth getting that too, it`s an all round better setup than standard 1850 and does somewhat improve torque and driveability. Speak to robsport, they will almost certainly have all the stuff needed to do the conversion.

<p>1976 Dolomite 1850 HL Auto<br>
1979 Dolomite 1850 HL Man o/d<br>
1989 Noisy Mini 1340 <br>
1994 VW Golf GTI</p><i></i>

[Jon Tilson]

to just fit new float valves. The whole kit costs about a fiver a carb and Moss and Rimmers do it all mail order. Its pointless putting a washer under a worn out float valve....<br>
Fitting a TR7 inlet manifold isnt beyond you but is likely to be a bit more problematic than just changing the float valves, which ammounts to 6 screws and a couple of pipe clips. If it takes you more than an hour I'll be surprised. If you take off the inlet manifold you have to contend with the bypass pipe to the water pump top cover, a big O ring which you can only get from a decoke set, Moss or Rimmers, coping with the heater plumbing, changing the blanking plate on the head back for one from a TR7 with the outlet pipe, or modifying your own...and then you'll have an old set of HS6's to do the same job too anyway...<br>
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Have I talked you out of it? There is LOTS that could go wrong and leave you stranded. Best to leave the TR7 conversion until you've got a spare engine with carbs and manifold from one and you can see whats involved.<br>
Jonners

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