Poor running - how to diagnose (lots of tips)

[Nathan MWK 627G]

whilst driving around today i suddenly had a missfire on the car, couldnt get any speed, the more i went up the gears the slower the car became, so i pulled over to have a quick check that everything is where it should be which it is...start up and missfire had gone...ten min later its back...cant get speed!! it also needed some fuel so pulled into sainsburys stuck a tenner in, started it and all was well (thought it perhaps was abit of muck in the fuel line/carb) went to von's mums then onto her nans and all was well!! on the way home came down broadlane (its a long road) stopped at lights...they turn green...took off onto the A45 (at this point its p**sin it down) and the miss fire is back so limped it to a layby and tryed to sort it, nothing worked the more i reved it the more weaker the engine became so i called the RAC...which were there in 20min <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :) --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/smile.gif ALT=":)"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> they diagnosed the coil was dead and the trouble i was having was its dying moments!! so recovery truck home as they cant tow me!!<br>
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What i wanted to know is, how much is it for a coil for a 1300 fwd its the old glass type ( its a LUCAS LA12) as im gonna go and try to get a new one tomorrow but dont want to be ripped off!!! and if i cant get one of those is there another one that will work for the time bein as i want to keep the car to the original spec as poss!!<br>
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just one more thing...when i was explaining to the RAC where i was i suddenly relised and i kid you not that the "layby" we were sitting in was infact the old entrace off the A45 to the triumph factory................<!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :lol --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/laugh.gif ALT=":lol"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <br>
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thanks in advace for any help <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :b --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/tongue.gif ALT=":b"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END-->

<p></p><i>Edited by: <A HREF=http://p206.ezboard.com/bthetriumphdolo ... omiteuk</A> at: 26/10/06 4:03 pm<br></i>

[Carsreunited]

Same coil as a Lotus Europa and 948 Healey Sprite, Morris 1100 etc.<br>
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Shouldn't be more than £15 really.<br>
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Saying that, just found this. Gulp.<br>
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<!--EZCODE LINK START--><a href="http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/NOS-LUCAS-IGNITIO ... <!--EZCODE LINK END--><br>
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[1300dolly]

whats the difference in the coils, i have a dolomite one fitted to my '67?<br>
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J.

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[Nathan MWK 627G]

hiya....Dollyboy what make and model dolomite coil do you have fitted to your 67?

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[Nathan MWK 627G]

Ok today, i went and bought a new coil, new plugs new condenser and points.........fitted the coil and it statred but its still dying so i fitted all the other parts apart the points as the guy gave me the wrong ones...but had a near new set so fitted them........tested the HT leads there all sparking and also tried a different dizzy cap the car starts and ticks over nice but when its revved its missing and the more you rev it the weaker the engine becomes!! tried driving but its the same as last night B4 it died!! <br>
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The old glass coil has a consenser attached to it.....do i need this condenser with the new modern coil??<br>
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Any ideas from you guys??..........iv been on since 9 this morning and i cant think of anything else to try!!<br>
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The only other thing i can think off is that a cylinder has dropped but how do i test this, i havent got a compression tester..is there a manual way to test it? <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :b --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/tongue.gif ALT=":b"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <br>
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1968 1300 fwd<br>


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[AndyThomas]

Have you changed the rotor arm as these seem to have a habit of cracking which causes the a missfire. I had one fail in a simular way a couple of years ago on my Toledo.<br>
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Andy.

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[dollysteve]

My 1300 fwd had misfire when I first got it, like you changed all ignition components and had no joy,whilst standing and thinking about what I could check next I dipped the oil, success, oil about half way up the dipstick, qick sniff highlighted what I thought, petrol in the oil, the only possible cause was the fuel pump, once dismatled I found the offending pin hole in the diaphragm, unfortunatley new diphragm are`t available so I had to fit a new one, problem solved.<!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :D --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/happy.gif ALT=":D"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END-->

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[Nathan MWK 627G]

Just been out to the car, and tried what you guys suggested...had a sniff of the dipstick (neighbours think iv really lost the plot now <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :lol --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/laugh.gif ALT=":lol"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> ) but i couldnt smell any fuel...........but will check the pump more thoroughly tomorrow!! fuel has come to mind but if it was the pump then surely it wouldnt start at all or if it did it would die quicker would a blockage cause it to miss during high rev's due to lack of fuel? i might check that tomorrow after work iv also swopped the rotor arm with a spare one but the problem is still there!! the other thing ill try is an oil change just incase any water has crept in there as its been on the drive all week and we've had some sh1t weather!!<br>
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as the car has been sitting for couple of hours it did rev up to nearly top a couple of times then the missin started!! even when its dying it will still tick over nice!! <br>
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thanks for the suggestion guys, its very much appreciated <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :b --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/tongue.gif ALT=":b"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END-->

<p></p><i>Edited by: <A HREF=http://p206.ezboard.com/bthetriumphdolo ... lub>Nathan MWK 627G</A> at: 20/8/06 8:31 pm<br></i>

[dollyboy]

I know its an easy mistake to make because we're both hilariously funny, but its justyn (1300dolly) who has the '67.<br>
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i just have various piles of bits, and one almost complete SE<br>
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<!--EZCODE EMOTICON START ;) --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/wink.gif ALT=";)"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END-->

<p>project orange - gradual progress<br>
project STEALTH - PASS!!! <br>
project white - AAARGGGHHH!!! too many cars!!!</p><i></i>

[Nathan MWK 627G]

If i cant clear this missfire then i think ill be the same as you with a pile of bits and a sore head from where iv been scratching it to much <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :lol --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/laugh.gif ALT=":lol"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <br>
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sorry for the confusion earlya ill try and remember for next time <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :o --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/embarassed.gif ALT=":o"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END-->

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[1300dolly]

Hi simon(<!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :lol --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/laugh.gif ALT=":lol"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> ) , in reponse to you question i have the coil i took of my '78 dolomite 1300 fitted on my '67 fwd. i havn't had any long drives yet but the driving i have done (around our work yard) it seems to be ok. check the dizzy cap for hairline cracks.<br>
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J.

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[Jon Tilson]

is IIRC afflicted with a Stromberg....<br>
Change the diaphram...<br>
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Jonners

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[mbellinger]

From the top,<br>
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Remove your air filter and check inside the air filter casing for blockages or bits of old rag that have been sucked up from in the engine bay. There is one member of this forum who virtually stripped an engine before he realised he had an old piece of rag obstructing his air box.......<br>
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Change points, plugs condenser and rotor arm. Make sure points gap is correct. Sounds obvious but if your feeler gauge is less than 5 years old it will almost certainly be metric.<br>
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Make sure you have a strong spark at the plugs by remopveing a plug and earthing against the block. Try turning the car over in the pitch dark with the bonnet up - if you have a hairlinbe crack in dizzy cap and or rotor arm you will see the arc clearly.<br>
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Make sure you have the right bits - 1300 Dolly and FWD stuff is NOT interchangeable as the 1300 Dolly has a completely different dizzy and ignition bits. The 1300FWD kit is the same as Herald 13/60, which more motor factors seem to list.<br>
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Try at least 2 condensors - the new pattern ones by Intermotor are crap and I have had at least two fail straight out of the box.<br>
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The best source for ignition bits are Holden Vintage and Classic or Rarebits for Classics who are Herald specialists, or of course the Club via Steve Waldenberg (contct details in Dolly Mixture).<br>
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Once you have checked the ignition side, check the fuel side. Take the fuel pipe of the carb and turn the engine over - make sure you have a good strong flow. If not check the pump and the gauze filter on the top of the pump which may be blocked with crud.<br>
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Assuming you have fuel at the carb, check the dashpot is filled with clean engine oil. Then as Jonners says change the diaphragm. Only use a replacement from someone decent like Burlen fuel systems as the quality of replacements varies wildly. Do the ususal checks like immersing the float in petrol and looking for bubbles indicating a leak. While you have the carb in bits you may as well order a rebuild kit from Burlens which will include the diaphragm and rebuild it - it is a simple job provided you are methodical. In particular check the rubber O rings around the jet as these perish and cause heinous air leaks and worse.<br>
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Get the engine running well without the air filter, as the FWD air filter is extremely restrictive at high rpm. Once you have got it right carefully clean the air filter housing making sure there are no blockages and bits of rag in there, fit a new filter element, and away you go - running well and a guaranteed 5 mpg or so better off.

<p>Martin<br>
<br>
1968 Triumph 1300FWD<br>
1975 Triumph 1500TC Auto<br>
1989 Honda Civic 1300 Auto<br>
2006 Mondeo 2.0 Ghia X Auto<br>
2002 Renault Scenic<br>
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[Toledo Man]

Martin, there's one more thing I'd like to add:<br>
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The dwell angle will need to be adjusted. This allows for wear in the dizzy which will have defintiely occurred in Nathan's FWD! Maplin do a digital engine analyser (about £20) which measures the dwell angle among other things. All you have to do is adjust the points gap to get the correct dwell angle. The correct figure will be in the Haynes or the factory workshop manual. I did this with Snowdrop and it made a difference to how the car was running.

<p>Toledo Man<br>
<br>
1974 Toledo 2-door (currently a spares car for Snowdrop)<br>
1973 1500fwd (Baby Blue slowly being recommissioned)<br>
1971 1500fwd (spares car for Baby Blue & future donor for the "Stretch 1500" project)<br>
1983 Acclaim HL (Becky, my daily driver)<br>
1977 Dolomite 1300 (Snowdrop my other road going Triumph)</p><i></i>

[Nathan MWK 627G]

Thanks for the suggestions guys...im printed them off so i can go down the list 1 by 1......(im clever you see <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :lol --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/laugh.gif ALT=":lol"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> )<br>
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iv got a spare carburetter and distributor so i might change the whole units as i bought them off Ken (purplebargrken) and the car they came off only done 26000 miles!! but i will also do a complete check of mine aswell!! <br>
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one other question is you mention the feeler guages are different...mine re draper and less than 5 years old, the manual says the contacts should be gaped at <br>
.014 to .016 inch im setting them at 0.15 on the guage am i doing this right?? my feelers have settings as follows..............0.80, 0.70, 0.60, 0.50, 0.40, 0.30, 0.20, 0.15, 0.10, 0.05 Iv been using 0.15 which im now thinking is wrong?? <br>
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This whole metric and imperial always confuses me!! <br>
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The car is booked in for the coventry run in two weeks so any help is appreciated!!<br>
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thanks again nath <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :b --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/tongue.gif ALT=":b"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <br>
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<p></p><i>Edited by: <A HREF=http://p206.ezboard.com/bthetriumphdolo ... lub>Nathan MWK 627G</A> at: 21/8/06 6:17 pm<br></i>