Temperature Gauge

[retro baz]

<br>
after changing my head gasket just before Christmas i have noticed that the temperature is sitting just over a quarter. i can remember from before it sat just under or over a half ( cant remember which) but until today i put it down to the fact i hadn't run it for long enough but i ran her for about an hour and no change.<br>
i sat her in the garage for 10 Min's and the temperature did rise so i know the gauge is not stuck.<br>
any ideas? <br>
i don't think i performed a miracle by making a 1500 dolly engine run cool.

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[john 16v]

did you replace thermostat,is it stuck open!<!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :D --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/im ... /happy.gif ALT=":D"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END-->

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[retro baz]

yeah i changed that.<br>
it rises as normal but stops at a quarter. <br>


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[Silvery]

My 1500 doesn't get exactly warm either, apart from when it's running low on water, then it cooks pretty quick..<br>
<br>
Haven't got round to doing the thermostat yet, but I do know my mixture is all wrong (thanks to waxstats, having set it up "around" the tappet problems, etc). Too rich a mixture will really keep things cool, as well as eating a hole in your wallet, detracting from performance, and possibly doing long term damage to the engine.<br>
<br>
Worth checking yours is running about right <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :) --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/im ... /smile.gif ALT=":)"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END-->

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[Malc]

Does your fuel guage work correctly and show what you consider to be an accurate level, i.e when you brim the tank does the guage show full. You could have a voltagae stabiliser problem that is leading to incorrect guage readings, i know, i've been there. The std voltage Stabilisers are a bit Michael Mouse, old technology. in the club range we have some units built with 'modern' stuff inside them, give a constant 10v outout and thus accurate guage readings <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START ;) --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/im ... s/wink.gif ALT=";)"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END-->

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[retro baz]

No i checked that and it seems to be spot on.<br>
the running to rich sounds quite a good idea because she is running a bit to rich so i will have a bash at that in the morning.when doing the mixture levels do i screw the screws in or out??? i can't remember???

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[Malc]

IIRC, to weaken, it is anti clock when looking from above, raise the jets, weakens the mix

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[BDN712V]

My 1500 runs just on or below 1/4, and has done since replacing the engine with one from a fwd with loads of swapping over. I tested the sender, which behaved perfectly, and know it CAN read higher, as the water pump started leaking and it rocketed. Since I replaced that it's sat there at 1/4. The timing is spot on (strobe at car boot sale proving its worth), and the tuning is now better than it has been as long as I've know the vehicle. Fuel gauge goes off the scale when full, but drops quite quickly from about 1/2, but I've been assured that's normal too.<br>
<br>
If there's at least 2 vehicles that do this, the odds are we're ok.... or completely stuffed!<br>
<br>
Which is it??<br>
<br>
Tim

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[Silvery]

It is indeed anti clockwise from above to weaken the mixture - Wind up to raise jet, and weaken, down to lower and richen. My problem seem sot be I run out of "up", and by pressing the jet up the engine seems to run better - I get the feeling it's time to dig out 4 1p coins and throw away the pellets <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :) --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/im ... /smile.gif ALT=":)"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> But as I'll be dropping a 1300 lump in, I might just wait and see, as I'll be trying HS2s on that to see if I can increase the torque (with a loss in top end hp, but as it's an auto, and most miles are around a town where nothing goes more than 20mph, it doesn't matter too much).<br>
<br>
My current 1300fwd doesn't get up to temp very quickly either, and that's running about spot on, or at least, as spot on as a Stromberg can... And I'm not sure my old 1300fwd ever really got up to temp as I never did more than 10 miles at a time, and never above 50mph in it..<br>
<br>
Could be for once the cooling system is *too* efficient for the cold weather!

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[Jod Clark]

My tuned 1500 is VERY sensitive to thermostats. I run a re-cored 1850 radiator and Spal fan (and an oil cooler) and it seems just a little bit too good at dumping the heat. In the summer I have to use a 75 degree thermostat to keep the needle at 3/8 to ½, when Autumn comes I have to chjange to an 82 or 88 degree 'stat so get the needle anything over ¼.<br>
<br>
Worth remembering that over-cooling is as bad as overheating!<br>
<br>
Jod

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[BDN712V]

Is the best way to get round this to strap a sheet of hardboard over part of the front of the radiator to reduce air flow??<br>
<br>
Would seem to be a cheapskate solution...<br>
<br>
Tim

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[Silvery]

You could just do what I did, and fit a faulty jube clip to the heter hose.. Thought it was tihgt - But it obviously wasn't!<br>
<br>
Engine got *very* toasty unless I kept it topped up with water. Sorted now though <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :) --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/im ... /smile.gif ALT=":)"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END-->

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[Barry Worrallo]

Hi,<br>
Just remove your temp. sender unit and BIN IT!!...Fit a new one and the gauge will read higher(mine did.). If this doesn't work, fit an 88 degree stat.<br>
Cheers,<br>
Barry.

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[john 16v]

i have a 74deg t/stat in my sprint.<br>
i still have old receipt to back this up.<br>
<br>
have been told they didn't make 74deg t/stats for sprints.is this true,have i got wrong one fitted.!<br>
it's never overheated.<!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :eek --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/im ... ns/eek.gif ALT=":eek"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END-->

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[Jod Clark]

The 74 degree stat is actually a Stag part. Useful mod if your radiator is old...

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