Sprint Overdrive removal

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dolomitejohn
Posts: 3
Joined: Fri Jun 16, 2006 8:38 pm

Sprint Overdrive removal

#1 Post by dolomitejohn » Fri Jun 16, 2006 8:38 pm

I hate my Sprint <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START >: --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/mad.gif ALT=">:"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> , having just cured a coolant leak from the head (core plugs) I am confronted with Overdrive problems. Basically it slips in reverse but otherwise works fine. Have cleaned the relief valve and replaced the solenoid. So its out with the Overdrive. Anyone know if a Sprint Overdrive can be removed from the car without removing the engine, Gearbox, tunnel ???? Cheers

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DailySprinter
Posts: 72
Joined: Tue Apr 26, 2005 7:21 pm

overdrive removal

#2 Post by DailySprinter » Fri Jun 16, 2006 9:11 pm

I'm sure it can be removed with supporting the gearbox , undoing the gearbox mount, speedo cable and prop shaft and thats all.<br>
<br>
I'm sure I did it myself 9 or 10 years ago, and had to whack the overdrive off the gearbox, quite a struggle though, and the next overdrive went on quick.<br>
<br>


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george
Posts: 464
Joined: Tue Jan 13, 2004 1:01 am

o/d

#3 Post by george » Fri Jun 16, 2006 10:30 pm

hope its not coming in on reverse<!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :eek --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/eek.gif ALT=":eek"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> that will stuff it<br>
it can be removed from under if it still working run it rear wheel off ground select 3/4 switch od unit on wait till it's engaged and turn off ign while it's still in gear dont press clutch etc this locks it up and makes it easy to remove from the main shaft<br>


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paulgeering
Posts: 74
Joined: Fri Mar 19, 2004 9:07 am

overdrive off

#4 Post by paulgeering » Fri Jun 16, 2006 10:33 pm

I have done it myself once before using a pit. It's a 8astard of a job due to the weight of the unit and the angle of dangle needed to get it off. Of course it is even harder to get in back on. I vowed that I would never again take the O/D unit off the back of the gearbox with the gearbox still fitted to the car.<br>
<br>
Given that it only takes about 1hour (subject to experience) to take the engine and box out, and you do not need a pit, that is the route that I would strongly recommend.<br>
<br>
Out of interest, what do you mean when you say it slips in reverse? They must never be used in reverse.

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MaddMart
Posts: 1154
Joined: Tue Apr 15, 2003 8:35 pm

Re: overdrive off

#5 Post by MaddMart » Fri Jun 16, 2006 11:14 pm

I tried to get the o/d unit off without taking the g/box out but no chance.<br>
<br>
I'm also intriged by the o/d slipping in reverse.

<p>Martin<br>
<br>
<!--EZCODE LINK START--><a href="http://www.dolomitesprint.com/" target="top">www.dolomitesprint.com</a><!--EZCODE LINK END--></p><i></i>

Jon Tilson
Posts: 1311
Joined: Sat Mar 08, 2003 8:28 pm

No way...

#6 Post by Jon Tilson » Sat Jun 17, 2006 12:18 am

will a Sprint o/d come off the box in situ. I have tried and it foulls the body, even with pushing the engine down at the back as far as possible. If you had a pit and were brave I suppose you could get it down lower by undoing the engine mounts. Pointless....take out the lot on a decent crane. Its far easier.<br>
On an 1850 it will come off....thats another story.<br>
Jonners

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slant04
Posts: 97
Joined: Mon May 22, 2006 11:41 pm

Before you strip it out!!

#7 Post by slant04 » Sat Jun 17, 2006 10:24 am

Sounds like there is a more basic problem. If its engaged in reverse, which is the only way the uni directional clutch is coming in, it means there is either a inhibitor swich problem or for what reason, it is not disengaging. Its worth checking the solenoid set up again. Failing thet, Give overdrive repairs in Sheffield a ring. They had a feature recently in Pratical Classics. I've known them for 10 + years and they are very helpful and wil give advice over the phone. Failing that, get it rebuilt. Note they do all the o/d work for rimmers!

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george
Posts: 464
Joined: Tue Jan 13, 2004 1:01 am

od

#8 Post by george » Sat Jun 17, 2006 10:49 am

it comes off <br>
if the back of the subframe is lowered enough of course it's a lot easier on a ramp it's close but there's enough room<br>
and if you have a spare mainshaft then it's easy to align it for refitting on the box

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Jon Tilson
Posts: 1311
Joined: Sat Mar 08, 2003 8:28 pm

George...

#9 Post by Jon Tilson » Sat Jun 17, 2006 7:41 pm

I rarely differ with you but in this case I will...<br>
I had Mike Kehoe's Sprint in for a box change last year and there is no way the overdrive was going to clear even with max subframe downage...and son levering engine down at the back...<br>
Maybe yours had longer subframe bolts.,..<!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :rollin --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/roll.gif ALT=":rollin"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <br>
<br>
Or are you thinking 1850 and Inssbrucks...which both come off no problemo...<br>
<br>
Jonners

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paulgeering
Posts: 74
Joined: Fri Mar 19, 2004 9:07 am

it does come off

#10 Post by paulgeering » Sun Jun 18, 2006 2:06 am

Jonners, it really does come off (I have personally done it) but you need a huge angle of dangle. As I said above, it is that much of a pain, even with the car on ramps, I would still extremely strongly massively recommend taking the whole damn shebang out and splitting it on the floor. It's quicker and easier, especially if you are experienced on the car.<!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :hat --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/pimp.gif ALT=":hat"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END-->

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dolomitejohn
Posts: 3
Joined: Fri Jun 16, 2006 8:38 pm

Cheers chaps

#11 Post by dolomitejohn » Sun Jun 18, 2006 8:53 pm

When I mentioned slipping in reverse, I mean that when I engage reverse gaer it slips (OD disengaged of course). <br>
I don't have facilities to remove the engine / box together (garage roof too low) so will attempt the removal of Od on its own with rear of subframe lowered. Will let you know.<br>
<br>
<br>
Cheers John

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MalcGE
Posts: 274
Joined: Thu Dec 23, 2004 9:43 pm

Brave Man

#12 Post by MalcGE » Sun Jun 18, 2006 10:57 pm

IMHO it is best 'out with the whole lump, engine & box together, nice sunny day, do outside and roll car into garage afterwards<!--EZCODE EMOTICON START ;) --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/wink.gif ALT=";)"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <br>
<br>
Good luck, hope it works for you. A goosed reverse.fuff overdrive are certainly linked. <br>
<br>
Alan crome will tell you about XAA and no reverse gear when it resided IOW, sure enough, since its arrival back mainland and my acquisition, it has had a rebuilt overdrive.

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MaddMart
Posts: 1154
Joined: Tue Apr 15, 2003 8:35 pm

One man's meat...

#13 Post by MaddMart » Sun Jun 18, 2006 11:46 pm

I personally would just drop the g/box & o/d as a unit, unless you plan to do other stuff to the engine as well. I've done this many times myself, usually without dropping the rear subframe.<br>
<br>
Some say do it one way, others say another way. Suck it & see!

<p>Martin<br>
<br>
<!--EZCODE LINK START--><a href="http://www.dolomitesprint.com/" target="top">www.dolomitesprint.com</a><!--EZCODE LINK END--></p><i></i>

paulgeering
Posts: 74
Joined: Fri Mar 19, 2004 9:07 am

o/d removal

#14 Post by paulgeering » Mon Jun 19, 2006 1:07 am

I strongly suggest that you do not try it unless you have either hydraulic lifts (like the MOT station) or a good depth pit. You will not IMHO do this with either axle stands or drive on ramps - ever, there simply is not suficient clearance.

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MaddMart
Posts: 1154
Joined: Tue Apr 15, 2003 8:35 pm

Re: One man's meat...

#15 Post by MaddMart » Mon Jun 19, 2006 1:17 pm

I've done this many times, on my own, with the car on ramps or axle stands. Suck it & see!

<p>Martin<br>
<br>
<!--EZCODE LINK START--><a href="http://www.dolomitesprint.com/" target="top">www.dolomitesprint.com</a><!--EZCODE LINK END--></p><i></i>

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