Hose for Sprint - Clutch Resevoir to Master Cylinder

[harryrc]

I'm dealing with trying to get the clutch bled. I've read the threads that have various methods to get this accomplished.<br>
<br>
My question is what should the pipe that goes from the resevoir to the master cylinder me made of? There is a short length of metal brake line coming off the top of the cylinder, and then a short length of rubber line (similar to fuel line) connecting the pipe and bottom of the resevoir, with a couple of clamps to hold the line on. Is this correct?<br>
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I'll continue to try and get the system bled.<br>
<br>
Thanks for any ideas.<br>
<br>
Harry<br>
Denver, Colorado

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[DailySprinter]

It sounds about right to me

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[David6214]

In all honesty, mine vary. <br>
<br>
Ive obviously got the metal brake line bit, but some of mine have properly formed union connections to preshaped rubber pipe (nice) , some have solid plastic hose clamped on (less effective, buts its clear so that has its plusses) and the others are as you have. I'm not sure it matters so long as they are leak free.<br>
<br>
David

<p>1981 1500 HL - off to collect it tomorrow - to be my daily driver.<br>
1980 Inca Sprint - Quite tidy, Running! <br>
1979 Blue 1850 auto - Sold, gone<br>
1978 Inca Sprint Engine back in needs timing<br>
1978 Yellow 1850 auto - spares car<br>
1973 Mimosa Sprint Project car - sold, going end of september</p><i></i>

[Carl]

Harry, sounds like you've got the original factory fitted pipe. These are prone to flexing as they get older and take up some of the pedal travel. You can use a Midget 1500 pipe which is made from hard red plastic (I have one of these on my car, works fine) or have a braided stainless one made up. As for bleeding the system, use an off-set ring spanner (1/2 inch IIRC) to undo the two bolts that hold the slave support bracket to the gearbox and lift the whole thing into the engine bay. You can secure the slave piston right back in the cylinder (I've used a 2-leg puller for this) and bleed it quite easily then re-install it. It's a bit fiddly a first but you soon get the hang of it.

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[MalcGE]

Carl is right (of course) the OE Master to Slave pipe on a Sprint is 'black rubber crimped to two shaped metal ends'. <br>
<br>
I've yet to Master the Shakespear method of slave removal but will force myself to learn next time as tranny tunnel out is such a big job. It certainly makes for easier bleeding.<br>
<br>
However, to bleed 'in situ' place pipe on slave bled, run box spanner over pipe to bleed nipple, undo bleed nipple, push clutch operating arm back and hold. Clear instruction to the pedal pumper to only pump when bleed is open, close off on release. Clear instructions and trust cos your fingers will be between operating lever and bellhousing <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :eek --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/eek.gif ALT=":eek"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END-->

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[Jon Tilson]

If the belld nipple is below the inlet pipe there is the possibility of a trapped air bubble that will never bleed out.<br>
The Carl method ensures this cant happen...as does position the bleed nipple above the inlet but that may make access impossible.<br>
If you can run a length of pipe back to the master reservoir it should force all the air out as you keep pumping until all the bubbles go...<br>
On a Sprint you need quite a length of pipe to achieve this and be careful as you will have a tube full of brake fluid to drip all over the paint.<br>
Think I'd do it Cals way if you can get it off...<br>
The tube method is a doddle on an 1850.<br>
Jonners

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[Carl]

Malc, your mention of the transmission tunnel reminded me that I hung on to the tunnel from a scrap car some time ago. It had a big access hole cut in the side so that you can get to the slave cylinder. Someone had taken the trouble to have a plastic cover made, quite a neat job. I wondered if there was any interest in having some copies made.

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[harryrc]

Thanks for the ideas. I'll let you know how I make out. When bleeding, I did take the time to change the bleed nipple to the top, as PO had put it on the bottom. I may also try cutting a hole in the tranny tunnel.<br>
<br>
Thanks again.<br>
Harry

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[MalcGE]

Worth a look Carl. Ted M lent me a template that he used to cut open his Trans Tunnell. Then a aluminiu, plate is formed and used to blank it all off, allor being easy to shape. Wouldn't mind having a look at the plastic cover @ TDCIR <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START ;) --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/wink.gif ALT=";)"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END-->

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[Sprint36]

I've welded four captive nuts around a circular hole on my trans tunnel and made a cover plate which bolts in place using these nuts. Haven't had to use it since I made it though. If I make it to TDCIR we can compare access holes!<br>
<br>
David

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[MaddMart]

I do my access holes like this:-<br>
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<!--EZCODE IMAGE START--><img src="http://www.dolomitesprint.com/images/gbic1.jpg" style="border:0;"/><!--EZCODE IMAGE END--><br>
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<!--EZCODE IMAGE START--><img src="http://www.dolomitesprint.com/images/gbic4.jpg" style="border:0;"/><!--EZCODE IMAGE END-->

<p>Martin<br>
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<!--EZCODE LINK START--><a href="http://www.dolomitesprint.com/" target="top">www.dolomitesprint.com</a><!--EZCODE LINK END--></p><i></i>

[george]

try it without pumping i get an assistant to press down with the nipple open then close the nipple and up with the pedal open the nipple again repeat until its bled this way you continue to push fluid/air towards the nipple <br>
and in my opinion it's the quickest and best method somtimes you do have to get the fluid down there first if its been totaly drained just leave the nipple open and fill the fluid to the top and press down with the palm of your hand a few times on the filler neck and this will force the fluid to to cylinder works a treat on brakes

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