Engine swap number 2...

[2F45T4U]

...Hit a bump before it started.<br>
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After being told to check the big ends and mains before going ahead with an engine swap I found this...<br>
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Just aswell I did look, I was just gnna chuck it in nd hope for the best, then moan 2 weeks down the line when it stopped working!<br>
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So out came my first TR7 engine which I began stripping a while back.<br>
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checked the bearings, good news. They are vanderwells in original size, the other crank has had a 40 thou regrind on the con rod 'parts' and 30 thou on the big end 'part' (what these 'parts' on the crank called again?)<br>
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Now I have one solid bottom end engine for my waggon. <br>
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Work will continue tommorow from the South wales dolly emporium... Ad<br>
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[george]

con rod = big ends<br>
mains = main journal <br>
dont forget about the thrust washers check out the size on them it's on the back like the other bearings<br>
and dont forget to check the crank end float

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[MaddMart]

Crickey Adam, I've never seen shells like that before. <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :eek --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/eek.gif ALT=":eek"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <br>
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"Con rod" short for "Connecting Rod" ie. piston held on the top end by the small end bearing. Other end is the "Big End"...<br>
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On the crankshaft you have 4 journals for the 4 big ends & 5 journals for the main bearings.<br>
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Didn't know you could regrind the crankshaft to +040" I thought +030" was the max.?

<p>Martin<br>
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<!--EZCODE LINK START--><a href="http://www.dolomitesprint.com/" target="top">www.dolomitesprint.com</a><!--EZCODE LINK END--></p><i></i>

[2F45T4U]

The big end journals are 40thou and the mains journals are 30 thou regrind... Maybe the problem was with the oil pick up. The tube with the strainer on the end you could wiggle by hand. I think you'd have to of seen one to under stand what I mean but the tube was a bit loose in to the body (part that bolts to the block). Maybe it was sucking in a bit of air, instead of oil.<br>
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Hit another problem. The engines not turning over. Torqued up the main bearing caps to 60 foot pound I think (can't remember the exact figure but it was what the haynes said) and two of the big ends to 45 foot pound. Couldn't turn the engine over by leavering against the webs on the crank so fitted the flywheel on. Still isn't budging. All the shells and caps are in the correct order...

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[SprintV8]

Loosen all the bearing cap's.<br>
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Tighten one and try to turn over.<br>
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Then tighten another cap and try to turn over again,<br>
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As soon as you can not turn it over that's the one with the problem, <br>
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Chances are you fitted a cap round the wrong way (Hopefully or mixed some up)<br>
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Did you number the cap's before you took them off or where they already marked?.

<p>1980 Dolomite SprintV8 (360bhp of TVR AJP V8 Pumping Alloy Coming soon !)<br>
2002 Citroen Xsara 2.0 HDi Estate.... Part's delivery Vehicle.<br>
They laugh at me because I am different. I laugh at them because they are all the same!)<br>
<br>
</p><i>Edited by: <A HREF=http://p206.ezboard.com/bthetriumphdolo ... printV8</A> at: 15/7/06 11:48 pm<br></i>

[2F45T4U]

They were already numbered.

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[george]

adam dont forget the caps are oposite way round .. eg the bearing tangs are oposite each other this is to avoid the bearings turning or spinning when in place <br>


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[george]

adam if you look at the caps you will see the mark of each of the bearings on them

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[2F45T4U]

Yer noticed which way the shells went and made sure they went in correctly.<br>
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I think it's number 5 mains bearing cap. It's a different shape to the rest of them without a number on it. May be the wrong way round.

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[2F45T4U]

Ahh haaa!<br>
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When I swapped the crank and shells over I also swapped the main bearing caps. 2 of us couldn't even turn the engine over with one cap torqued up to 25ft/lb! Now with the right caps on it and torqued up to 65ft/lb one person can turn it over <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :D --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/happy.gif ALT=":D"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <br>
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Thanks fellas, especially George <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :D --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/happy.gif ALT=":D"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END-->

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[Jon Tilson]

main bearing caps go with the block, big ends stay with the con rod...<br>
I was going to suggest the thrusts may have been the problem. Had a T2000 lock up n me years ago cos of that....but slant 4's are different with the thrusts on the centre bearing...IIRC<br>
or am I thinking rover V8?<br>
<br>
Jonners

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[2F45T4U]

Yer there on the centre bearing with slant 4s

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[2F45T4U]

Bugger... One of the thermostat housing bolt holes is well and truly stripped (not by me may I add). So stripped it can't be tapped out as the metal on one side is incredibly thin. I now need to swap the inlet manifolds over and the one that was on my last engine doesn't seal at the O-ring properly due to one part being slightly more pronounce than the rest. Looks like somebodies smacked Holy hell out of it with a huge hammer at some time! <br>
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Plus I don't have inlet manifold gasket nor do I have O-rings. I'm so close to just taking it off the road now (instead of 8 weeks down the line when I go to uni)<br>
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Bastard car! <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :( --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/frown.gif ALT=":("><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> <!--EZCODE EMOTICON START :lol --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/laugh.gif ALT=":lol"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END-->

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[george]

adam bring it up let me have a look at it

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[Toledo Man]

Adam, if you've got enough money give Fitchett's a ring, order your bits and it will be with you the next morning. Their prices are competitive and the next day delivery is excellent. Can't fault them.

<p>Toledo Man<br>
<br>
1974 Toledo 2-door (currently a spares car for Snowdrop)<br>
1973 1500fwd (Baby Blue slowly being recommissioned)<br>
1971 1500fwd (spares car for Baby Blue & future donor for the "Stretch 1500" project)<br>
1983 Acclaim HL (Becky, my daily driver)<br>
1977 Dolomite 1300 (Snowdrop my other road going Triumph)</p><i></i>