sprint head bolts (cylinder head fitting/engine removal)

[md1850]

Hi everyone,can you help? When replacing a sprint head,is it prudent to change the bolts or is this not worth it? Thanks in advance

<p></p><i>Edited by: <A HREF=http://p206.ezboard.com/bthetriumphdolo ... omiteuk</A> at: 19/10/06 11:32 am<br></i>

[alun n]

They stretch.....apparently, so my rule is if you need to change one, then replace the lot. Other than that I have used all existing studs and bolts successfully for many many miles subsequently.

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[adchesney]

Not having changed a Sprint head for some 20+ years, would someone be as kind to draft a shopping list of what I need?<br>
<br>
Also an idea of where I can procure such "stuff"<br>
<br>
I might just transfer the Stage II head and DCOE 45s from the scrapper (Yellow DLB) to my Yellow HGF over the Bank Hol weekend.<br>
<br>
Any suggestions/help would be great<br>
<br>
ANDREW

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[alun n]

Andrew; to ensure a trouble free weekend:<br>
<br>
Head Gasket<br>
Inlet Manifold Gasket<br>
New by-pass pipe (just in case)<br>
New 'H' heater pipe (just in case)<br>
5 studs, washers and nuts (just in case)<br>
5 bolts (just in case)<br>
Helicoil kit (just in case; definitely for one of the exhaust manifold bolts!)<br>
2 x Rad top hoses and new jubilee clips (just in case)<br>
New thermostat housing (just in case the over flow has corroded to the point of fracture)<br>
<br>
If all goes well then just the top two will do!<br>
<br>
Aren't you going to reseat the valves and re-shim the head whilst its off?<br>
<br>
Check the arrangement between the Weber manifold and waterpump cover; some are different to standard so you may need waterpump gaskets too.<br>
<br>
From......all the usual suspects of course!

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[SMIFTER]

Andrew<br>
<br>
I find it easier to unbolt the manifold insitu rather than the downpipe when changing the head. Access to the manifold bolts is made easier but unbolting the n/s engine mount and raising/lowering the engine on a trolley jack. And refitting get a couple of old head bolts, cut the heads off and hacksaw some screwdriver slots - use thes to locate the head correctly.<br>
<br>
On the engine i bought recently the previous owner has fitted core plugs into the water pump cover and into the weber manifold (Still waiting for it Jod!!<!--EZCODE EMOTICON START ;) --><img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/im ... s/wink.gif ALT=";)"><!--EZCODE EMOTICON END--> ) and claims it improved the cooling flow significantly. I wonder if it was really done due to manifold alignment problems but it was a professional job on that engine looking at the quality of the inlet porting work.<br>
<br>
I can see this is beneficial when the stat is open but when its closed there isnt any bypass, surely I'm going to get some problems as the bypass pipe is there for a reason!<br>
<br>
Its been so long since I worked on anything other than Sprints I cant remember if other cars have a bypass on the cooling system or if its a Triumph slant 4 engine thing. <br>
<br>
Graeme

<p><!--EZCODE LINK START--><a href="http://www.smifter1971.pwp.blueyonder.c ... >Smifter's Dolomite Sprint Website</a><!--EZCODE LINK END--></p><i></i>

[adchesney]

Dear Chaps<br>
<br>
Thanks for the advice...NOW...can the club supply these, if not where is the best place to BUY?<br>
<br>
I will take the head off and have a good look at what needs doing. <br>
<br>
QUESTION:BTW, am I best do do something with the cam-chain (renew/???)<br>
<br>
Smifter, thanks for the tips. I think you should do a "How to.." video and make some extra £££!!<br>
<br>
Regards<br>
<br>
ANDREW

<p></p><i>Edited by: <A HREF=http://pub52.ezboard.com/bthetriumphdol ... chesney</A> at: 23/3/04 12:35 pm<br></i>

[adchesney]

I recall some many years ago there was a debate about the sequence of un-doing and doing-up the cyl-head bolts. Can anyone advise the outcome.<br>
<br>
I have got to buy a torque wrench - any do's and dont's?<br>
<br>
Finally, if I am replacing the head should I replace the chain - and anything else whilst I'm doing it?<br>
<br>
Regards<br>
<br>
ANDREW

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[Jon Tilson]

if you have a decent running motor why take the head off? <br>
ISTR that you want the head and carbs of the yellow one...well why not get the whole yellow engine running in situ...cant be that hard...and then if it runs nicely change the whole engine over. That way you then have a nice spare engine and you can loose the shell for scrap...as long as its too bad to save of course.<br>
I say this because quiet a lot can go wrong with a head swap...you've only got to have one head stud seize on you and you have a whole lot of trouble....<br>
In contrast not a lot goes wrong swapping a whole engine....and head gaskets are rare and not cheap...<br>
If it aint broke dont fix it....<br>
I speak from bitter experience here...my own Sprint block still has the scars of sawing thru a seized stud...<br>
and it cost me a ton to have them drilled out of my 1850....<br>
Jonners

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[adchesney]

Dear Jon<br>
<br>
The old Yellow (DLB) with the DCOE and Stage II has all the hoses cut (including the oil cooler hoses). The ignition wires have been damaged - to get it to work in situ will take a little time and cost. <br>
<br>
I note your comments about the head and the associated risks. I have not tested the Stage II, but have been advised that it went "like stink" when it was last used THREE YEARS AGO!<br>
<br>
In fact based on what you say it sounds that it would be easier to take out and re-plumb in my Yellow (HGF) as it would change the head. <br>
<br>
The only engine transplant I've done was 22 years ago on a 1100 Escort Van - I will need to read very carefully my Haynes manual!! I just thought that a head swap would be the easy option - now I am looking at a complete heart transplant - SCARY!!!!<br>
<br>
Finally, if I am to go this route - what additional parts would you recommend I need?<br>
<br>
ANDREW<br>
<br>
P.S. The Easter weekend could be the time for a heart transplant.<br>
<br>
ANDREW

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[alun n]

to change an engine than change a head IMO. Youd get the engine running in situ very easily and probably for less cost than your head swap - use hoses etc of your other car? or post a list of what is needed - I have a box of old hoses that would get it running short term......<br>
<br>
You need to research this or you will end up with three cars in bits and forget what goes where and then Mrs C will persuade you to sell the lot!!

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[IRL1177NI]

Engine swap is definately the easier option!<br>
<br>
Dont worry about the oil cooler hoses, just join them with piece of pipe and acouple of jubilee clips.Any other hoses you could borrow from the blue one.<br>
The ignition shouldn't too much hassle as you can use your other two cars to see what goes where!<br>
<br>
Tom

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[Jon Tilson]

You have three cars and only one goes so you should be able to get enough hoses together. The oil cooler is a doddle...just take the adaptor off and replace with the std transfer housing. <br>
Ignition is easy too....battery plus to coil +ve...coil - to dizzy and thats it...if its electronic just replace with points from one of your other cars. You neednt worry about the balast feed on the starter as you will have bypassed it.<br>
Obviously due dilegence checks on a long term static engine are a good idea...decent oil in the sump...turns over freely with no clonks by hand first (plugs out of course)and then spin it on the starter.<br>
To get it running...clean plugs...clean fuel...feed a gallon can straight to the carbs by gravity...<br>
<br>
I reckon 2 hours on a Saturday would have it running...<br>
I did one just like this last year in about an hour or so.<br>
If the bottom end turns out to be shagged then you have to pull the lump anyway and rebuild at your leisure.<br>
<br>
Hire a decent hoist and you can have the engine and box out together in about 3 hours....<br>
But if a head stud seizes you can bin 3 hours just trying to get it off....then you have to take the engine out anyway.<br>
<br>
Best scenario is that your yellow shrapnel engine goes very nicely and you can swap them over straight away....<br>
<br>
I'd still be inclined to get a 2nd opinion on is it really a scrapper...The killers are A posts and rear inner arches and boot floor. Cills are not a problem.<br>
<br>
Jonners<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>
<br>


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[adchesney]

Thank you so much for the advice.<br>
<br>
The BLUE is some miles away in a friends garage. I will make a visit to take off the hoses that have been cut.<br>
<br>
I accept your suggestions to get the engine running in situ and that if it works and sounds good THEN (and only then) do a transplant.<br>
<br>
JON, I note that you say "engine and box" will come out together, is that right? This would save a lot of time. I thought the Haynes manual said this was not possible - I'm not questioning your advice BUT I just want to be sure I understood.<br>
<br>
Kindest regards<br>
ANDREW<br>
<br>


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[Jon Tilson]

A sprint engine will come out on its own or with the box attached. Either way is a close fit. My preferred method with slant 4's is engine out on its own and box out and attached to get it back in. This is because the g/box input shaft never seems to mate up nicely for me.<br>
Its up to you....either way it isnt light so a good hoist is mandatory.<br>
Keep the downpipe attached and break the exhaust near the gearbox... <br>
Jonners

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