The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

The Number One Club for owners of Triumph's range of small saloons from the 1960s and 1970s.
It is currently Thu Jun 20, 2019 11:06 pm

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PostPosted: Thu Mar 07, 2019 11:05 am 
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TDC Cheshire Area Organiser

Joined: Wed May 17, 2017 5:28 pm
Posts: 669
Location: NANTWICH.
Looking good Bish :D :D

_________________
NOW A CLUB MEMBER 2017057 :bluewave:


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 07, 2019 2:04 pm 
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TDC Member

Joined: Thu Nov 09, 2017 7:55 pm
Posts: 125
Location: Maidstone
Quote:
Looking good Bish :D :D
Thanks. Hoping to be on the road this year, but still so much to do! I’m really enjoying working on VYK at the moment, he doesn’t seem to be fighting back too much. Time to work on the car is my issue.

Still on the list; fit interior, rebuild rear brakes inc brake lines, trackerjack front brakes, wax oil & under seal, solid rack mount, halogen headlights, exhaust, refurb wheels, paint satin black rear end, fit front and rear screen rubbers, various bits of chrome trim, c pillar vinyl needs gluing, rear seat belts, and plenty of other bits n bobs I’ll no doubt discover along the way............

On the road next week then! :D :roll:


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 20, 2019 8:18 pm 
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TDC Member

Joined: Thu Nov 09, 2017 7:55 pm
Posts: 125
Location: Maidstone
Nice shiny new halogen headlights! As luck would have it, the previous owner had already done the halogen conversion for me, relays and all. So it was just a case of swapping the old milky lights for new ones.

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One thing that had been annoying me was the aerial hole in the rear wing. I had bought a few different types, only to find that they didn’t have a steep enough angled base to fit the wing. I remembered the scuttle mounted aerial on the air cooled vws had a steep angle so I thought I’d give one of those a go.
It’s a nice fit, and stainless steel, so won’t rust before my eyes in a matter of weeks..... I hope! They are available from Machine 7. A quick google should find them if you need to.

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I have also got the indicators working properly by fitting a more modern relay. I used a Meyle one because I have always found them to be good quality for the price. German quality but a bit cheaper than Hella or Bosch. Fitting one means that your indicators work all the time, even with the engine not running, and at a constant speed. Also, the relay gives a good loud - click clock sound. The only modification needed, is to fit a wire from the third pin of the relay to ground.
Incidentally I have a few of these relays surplus, so if anyone wants one drop me a pm.

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PostPosted: Mon May 20, 2019 5:03 pm 
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TDC Member

Joined: Thu Nov 09, 2017 7:55 pm
Posts: 125
Location: Maidstone
Keeping the thread going there’s nothing too exciting to report, only that I have been under the Sprint giving it a good coat of underseal and cavity wax. Not pretty but hopefully will keep the rust at bay for a bit. The rear brakes have been rebuilt, the prop is back on, and I’ve been wrestling with the rimmers stainless exhaust. It is proving to be a bit of a pain as it wasn’t fitted very well in the first place, but it will be fitted better this time around!
I’ve whipped the cam cover off and re torqued the head. Good news is that the plug tubes look to be new items that are in good condition, maybe they are club ones? Everything looks to be in order so I’ll leave well alone for now. The cam cover gasket had been stuck on by the PO so that was a bit of a burger to get off, but I’ve got the mating surfaces nice and flat with a block and emery cloth. I have the clubs stainless allen screws for when it goes back together so fingers crossed for a leak free cam cover.

Time to test the image hosting site;

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Oooooooh it works :thumbsup:


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 02, 2019 4:48 pm 
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TDC Member

Joined: Thu Nov 09, 2017 7:55 pm
Posts: 125
Location: Maidstone
Fitted up the rear brake pipes today plus the load sensing valve and goodridge braided hose. Looking for guidance on fitting the braided hose on the forum - it seems there has been some confusion on how the goodridge hose fits. I think that I have it on correctly after looking at the fittings supplied for a while. Photo shows the correct way (I think). It’s laid out so that, as you look at the photo, the copper pipe fits up to the left and the right side is the load sensing valve end. Looking at the concave and convex ends helped me make up my mind on this, it seems to me that this is the only way to go. Time will tell when I get some fluid in and bleed the system.

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Plenty of black underseal has been applied, not a pretty finish, but looks tidier than it did for sure, and hopefully will keep the rust at bay.

Got VYK up and running again, but I’m not sure if the top end is a bit noisy? Click the link for a video;

https://vimeo.com/339842462


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 08, 2019 10:57 pm 
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TDC Member

Joined: Thu Nov 09, 2017 7:55 pm
Posts: 125
Location: Maidstone
Had a good day today working on the front brakes. Started with this not so pretty sight:

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Ive got both sides stripped out of the old set up, and the off side mocked up with the new, to see how everything with the trackerjack conversion goes together whilst checking for clearances etc before painting and final fit up.

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I’m impressed with the kit supplied by Jon trackerjack, it all went together nicely with no problems. Well done Jon, good work mate!
Jon supplied; discs, clamp rings, caliper mounting brackets, bolts, and spacers. I found a decent pair of calipers and carriers, which came from a scrapped 1989 diesel Ford Escort estate on eBay. All in nice working condition - good seals, no seized bleed nipples - for £30.
So all in all, it’s cost very similar money to renewing all my original seized set up. Bargain I reckon. :thumbsup:


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