The Triumph Dolomite Club - Discussion Forum

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 Post subject: Aye.....
PostPosted: Mon Feb 15, 2021 5:39 pm 
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James, if I was going to do this,
I would look for a rebuildable joint, that is the type with locking wire.

You can (or maybe that should be could?) buy the special bolts from Fitchetts.
Chris Witor sells the bushes (Superflex replacements)


For my Sprint I am using a T2000 UJ from Chris Witor.


Ian

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PostPosted: Tue Feb 16, 2021 1:46 pm 
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I had one of the ones that break that broke while I was driving. So I've now got one of the forged group 2 escort ones in my Sprint. I also replaced the underwear.

Graham
Hi Graham, Which version was it that broke up on you please ? And where was the failure point. Was it all 4 shoulder bolts or the casting ? Have you got a photo of the failed unit please ?

Thanks,
Tony.


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 16, 2021 2:57 pm 
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An interesting point when I spoke to Chris Witor he asked me which design of coupling I was proposing to refurbish as there were two different build standards for the couplings that basically look the same. He advised me that the easiest way to spot the difference before the item is stripped is to measure the thickness of the central disc. The slightly thicker disc is ¼ inch against the thinner which is only 3/16 thick. The picture also shows that the two disc are drilled differently and take different shaped bushes. See the photograph of Lowe steering coupling bits below

The SuperFlex repair kit SPF1179 is for the thicker disc design and the part number of the bolts that are drilled so that they can be wire locked are 108976


Image


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 16, 2021 3:18 pm 
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An interesting point when I spoke to Chris Witor he asked me which design of coupling I was proposing to refurbish as there were two different build standards for the couplings that basically look the same. He advised me that the easiest way to spot the difference before the item is stripped is to measure the thickness of the central disc. The slightly thicker disc is ¼ inch against the thinner which is only 3/16 thick. The picture also shows that the two disc are drilled differently and take different shaped bushes. See the photograph of Lowe steering coupling bits below

The SuperFlex repair kit SPF1179 is for the thicker disc design and the part number of the bolts that are drilled so that they can be wire locked are 108976


Image
I wonder how hard it would be to make up bushes to replicate the shoulder. Need to be snug, maybe even threaded, as any play would be horrible.
A shame nobody makes the joint with polybush from new.

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Driving Toledo fitted with slant 4, sprint OD box and axle. Needs fettling!


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PostPosted: Tue Feb 16, 2021 6:39 pm 
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I had one of the ones that break that broke while I was driving. So I've now got one of the forged group 2 escort ones in my Sprint. I also replaced the underwear.

Graham
Hi Graham, Which version was it that broke up on you please ? And where was the failure point. Was it all 4 shoulder bolts or the casting ? Have you got a photo of the failed unit please ?

Thanks,
Tony.
It was exactly the same as the ones Rimmers used to sell as FAM1718 and still show a picture of. The FAM1718UJ one they now sell looks the same as the pressed one I went to first, which is still alive and well in the Herald.

As to their being a shock absorber not for flex (they do allow for some bend), I have no problems with vibration up the column through the the UJs at all, neither in the Sprint nor in the Herald.

Graham

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The 16v Slant 4 engine is more fun than the 3.5 V8, because you mostly drive it on the upslope of the torque curve.

Factory 1977 TR7 Sprint FHC VVC 697S (Now all of, but still needs putting together)
B&Y 73 Dolomite Sprint UVB 274M (kids!)
1970 Maroon 13/60 Herald Convertable (wife's fun car).


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 17, 2021 12:59 am 
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same thing happened to mine after buying it new,cant remember who from and no its not from rimmers! another triumph parts supplier,failed inbetween mots...since then i bought re-buildable lock wire types and got two for spares of ebay....id rather buy of forum members or second hand parts which are fair better then new tat,rubbish,land fill items

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Dolomite 1300,1980`V`reg in british racing brown(russet),3.63 diff with 21t speedo pinion,95%poly`d,HL clocks,standard wheels with SE covers wrapt in 175 70 13,mot`d 19-09-2014,been off the since 1990,(july2017) stainless steel exhaust 3-piece,(xmas2018) wooden mountney steering wheel,(june2020) new monroe shock(radial front,gas-matic rears) with -1" lower`d springs all round.


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 17, 2021 5:29 pm 
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This is a lower knuckle which i refurbed quite some time ago ( locking wire added after pic taken ) and only fitted to the car last year with a new intermediate shaft, steering feel much improved, the only thing i seem to remember is you now cannot get the bifurbricated bolts anymore which was part number 108976 for rebuilding the knuckle :(

https://forum.triumphdolomite.co.uk/vie ... t=coupling

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1977 Flamenco sprint (VGY NOW TAX AND MOT FREE :D )


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 17, 2021 10:58 pm 
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What's this locking wire? I know about the earth wire needed for the horn on the cars that use it with the horn button in the steering wheel center, like the Herald and Spitfire. You don't need it with the UJs anyway.

Graham

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The 16v Slant 4 engine is more fun than the 3.5 V8, because you mostly drive it on the upslope of the torque curve.

Factory 1977 TR7 Sprint FHC VVC 697S (Now all of, but still needs putting together)
B&Y 73 Dolomite Sprint UVB 274M (kids!)
1970 Maroon 13/60 Herald Convertable (wife's fun car).


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PostPosted: Wed Feb 17, 2021 11:04 pm 
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Interestingly, this website says you do need the earthing wire with the pressed UJs for the horn to work on a Herald:https://www.classiccarparts.co.nz/index ... ct_id=1092.

But I didn't fit on our Herald and the horn works fine (when the button in the wheel works).

Graham

_________________
The 16v Slant 4 engine is more fun than the 3.5 V8, because you mostly drive it on the upslope of the torque curve.

Factory 1977 TR7 Sprint FHC VVC 697S (Now all of, but still needs putting together)
B&Y 73 Dolomite Sprint UVB 274M (kids!)
1970 Maroon 13/60 Herald Convertable (wife's fun car).


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 18, 2021 9:04 am 
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If you look at Richards post you can see the holes in the bolts that secure the Knuckle together , in the parts catalogue the exploded view shows locking wire through all the holes in the bolts just in case they work loose :D ( i am sure split pins would also do )

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1977 Flamenco sprint (VGY NOW TAX AND MOT FREE :D )


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 18, 2021 10:00 am 
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Interestingly, this website says you do need the earthing wire with the pressed UJs for the horn to work on a Herald:https://www.classiccarparts.co.nz/index ... ct_id=1092.

But I didn't fit on our Herald and the horn works fine (when the button in the wheel works).

Graham
Not a problem on the Dolly, the bulkhead bush has inevitably split so providing a nice ground in the footwell :lol:


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 18, 2021 10:04 am 
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Quote:
If you look at Richards post you can see the holes in the bolts that secure the Knuckle together , in the parts catalogue the exploded view shows locking wire through all the holes in the bolts just in case they work loose :D ( i am sure split pins would also do )
The one I had, the wire was just between two tag washers under the bolt heads - or was it the nuts, not sure now - not through the bolts. Looks like it is a dual use item in some cases.

While split pins would work on the Dolomite, they wouldn't do the other job of earthing the horn button when it's used on the small chassis cars.

Graham

_________________
The 16v Slant 4 engine is more fun than the 3.5 V8, because you mostly drive it on the upslope of the torque curve.

Factory 1977 TR7 Sprint FHC VVC 697S (Now all of, but still needs putting together)
B&Y 73 Dolomite Sprint UVB 274M (kids!)
1970 Maroon 13/60 Herald Convertable (wife's fun car).


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 18, 2021 10:08 am 
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Quote:
Quote:
Interestingly, this website says you do need the earthing wire with the pressed UJs for the horn to work on a Herald:https://www.classiccarparts.co.nz/index ... ct_id=1092.

But I didn't fit on our Herald and the horn works fine (when the button in the wheel works).

Graham
Not a problem on the Dolly, the bulkhead bush has inevitably split so providing a nice ground in the footwell :lol:
Didn't know any dolys had the horn button in the steering wheel.

Graham

_________________
The 16v Slant 4 engine is more fun than the 3.5 V8, because you mostly drive it on the upslope of the torque curve.

Factory 1977 TR7 Sprint FHC VVC 697S (Now all of, but still needs putting together)
B&Y 73 Dolomite Sprint UVB 274M (kids!)
1970 Maroon 13/60 Herald Convertable (wife's fun car).


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 18, 2021 11:21 am 
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Quote:
An interesting point when I spoke to Chris Witor he asked me which design of coupling I was proposing to refurbish as there were two different build standards for the couplings that basically look the same. He advised me that the easiest way to spot the difference before the item is stripped is to measure the thickness of the central disc. The slightly thicker disc is ¼ inch against the thinner which is only 3/16 thick. The picture also shows that the two disc are drilled differently and take different shaped bushes. See the photograph of Lowe steering coupling bits below

The SuperFlex repair kit SPF1179 is for the thicker disc design and the part number of the bolts that are drilled so that they can be wire locked are 108976


Image
Thanks to everyone who has commented and provided me with very helpful advice.

Looking at the picture from Richard it seems apparent that the wired type of knuckle has the thicker 1/4 centre disc which is also referred to as the Top Hat style. In speaking to Chris today he only has the poly bushes for this style. The knuckle with the peened/crimped bolts within them (which is what I have currently on my knuckle) has a slightly smaller centre disc at 3/16 (?) and is referred to as a Conical disc option.

Initially I hadn't looked closely at the picture Richard sent but you can see it clearly once you know what you are looking at..

So with my knuckle it appears that the CW kit doesn't ideally fit, although it does look like someone may have used incorrect rubbers on the one I have.... So I am going to strip mine down and just double check the centre disc option that I have to be 100% certain and go from there, as it seems possible to cross contaminate the components ... I am in the process of sourcing some new bolts (108976) with a few feelers out that look very promising, so I am just waiting for 100% clarification that they are what they should be. If they are I will be ordering them and then looking at rebuild options..

Thanks again to all. Will let you know how it goes..


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 18, 2021 11:47 am 
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An interesting point when I spoke to Chris Witor he asked me which design of coupling I was proposing to refurbish as there were two different build standards for the couplings that basically look the same. He advised me that the easiest way to spot the difference before the item is stripped is to measure the thickness of the central disc. The slightly thicker disc is ¼ inch against the thinner which is only 3/16 thick. The picture also shows that the two disc are drilled differently and take different shaped bushes. See the photograph of Lowe steering coupling bits below

The SuperFlex repair kit SPF1179 is for the thicker disc design and the part number of the bolts that are drilled so that they can be wire locked are 108976


Image
Thanks to everyone who has commented and provided me with very helpful advice.

Looking at the picture from Richard it seems apparent that the wired type of knuckle has the thicker 1/4 centre disc which is also referred to as the Top Hat style. In speaking to Chris today he only has the poly bushes for this style. The knuckle with the peened/crimped bolts within them (which is what I have currently on my knuckle) has a slightly smaller centre disc at 3/16 (?) and is referred to as a Conical disc option.

Initially I hadn't looked closely at the picture Richard sent but you can see it clearly once you know what you are looking at..

So with my knuckle it appears that the CW kit doesn't ideally fit, although it does look like someone may have used incorrect rubbers on the one I have.... So I am going to strip mine down and just double check the centre disc option that I have to be 100% certain and go from there, as it seems possible to cross contaminate the components ... I am in the process of sourcing some new bolts (108976) with a few feelers out that look very promising, so I am just waiting for 100% clarification that they are what they should be. If they are I will be ordering them and then looking at rebuild options..

Thanks again to all. Will let you know how it goes..
Please let us know if you manage to get the bolts as i will refurb another as a spare :D

_________________
1977 Flamenco sprint (VGY NOW TAX AND MOT FREE :D )


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