dolly 1850/tr7
Re: dolly 1850/tr7
TR7 engine bolts straight in, gearbox is a lot of hassle for no real gain over a 4 speed o/d box
- xvivalve
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Re: dolly 1850/tr7
The 5 speed box interferes with the steering rack/subframe and needs part of the bellhousing removing, also it is a different length to the dolly 'box and a custom propshaft would be required (budget £250 ish from Dave Mac Propshafts in Coventry.)
Put the TR7 engine in as its different but virtually visually unidentifiable from 1850 engine, and then sell the 5 speed 'box to fund the project (expect £150 upwards (I've seen them reach £400+!) on ebay for one of known providence
Put the TR7 engine in as its different but virtually visually unidentifiable from 1850 engine, and then sell the 5 speed 'box to fund the project (expect £150 upwards (I've seen them reach £400+!) on ebay for one of known providence
- David6214
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Re: dolly 1850/tr7
O'd boxes aren't too difficult to find. I have some overdrives, but you may as well find a complete box. There are various bits you will need from the 1850 engine, so don't bin it. Jon tilson wrote a thread on it once I think, certainly he has done it once or twice. IIRc you need the bits around the bellhousing to mate them together I think.200sxman wrote:Thanks for the quick response,so I'd better keep an eye out for an overdrive box if I go ahead.
Previous owner of 42 Dolomite shaped vehicles, 14 Sprints, 12 1850s, 8 1500s, 3 V8s, 3 Toledos and 2 SEs
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Re: dolly 1850/tr7
Hi Malcolm...
Makes a nice car...
You need the 1860 end plate and then you can eiter countersink it and use the TR7 bolts or use the dolly 1850 bolts and the dolly 1850 flywheel. Ive done it either way, I think the dolly flywheel is a bit lighter but I can hardly tell the difference.
Then you need the 1850 engine mounts and sump instead of the TR7 ones and the dolly alternator bracketry.
It could also be done with a Sprint end plate and a Sprint box and Sprint sub frame and engine mounts. If I did it again I may go this way as Ive found the 4 speed dolly box a bit marginal for the TR7 engine...also the diff is quite close to its limit whereas the sprint drivetrain has a lot more spare capacity. Thing is you wuld then have a Sprint in all but engine, so it may seem a bit pointless...
Also use the TR7 carbs and heater pipes. The TR7 has an outlet on the head whereas the 1850 has one on the manifold and the carbs are a bit smaller.
Jonners
Makes a nice car...
You need the 1860 end plate and then you can eiter countersink it and use the TR7 bolts or use the dolly 1850 bolts and the dolly 1850 flywheel. Ive done it either way, I think the dolly flywheel is a bit lighter but I can hardly tell the difference.
Then you need the 1850 engine mounts and sump instead of the TR7 ones and the dolly alternator bracketry.
It could also be done with a Sprint end plate and a Sprint box and Sprint sub frame and engine mounts. If I did it again I may go this way as Ive found the 4 speed dolly box a bit marginal for the TR7 engine...also the diff is quite close to its limit whereas the sprint drivetrain has a lot more spare capacity. Thing is you wuld then have a Sprint in all but engine, so it may seem a bit pointless...
Also use the TR7 carbs and heater pipes. The TR7 has an outlet on the head whereas the 1850 has one on the manifold and the carbs are a bit smaller.
Jonners
Note from Admin: sadly Jon passed away in February 2018 but his humour and wealth of knowledge will be fondly remembered by all. RIP Jonners.