I've had a look on Google, there seems to be 4 main types.
Hammerite Kurust (I've used this, not impressed).
Aqua-Steel (very expensive).
Jenolite - just acid?
Vactan - sounds good.
Does anyone have personal recommendations? I need to treat a lot of rust quickly, I want to stabilise bits and pieces before I can get the work done properly over the coming months/years.
Thanks,
Bill.
Rust Converters
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Re: Rust Converters
I don't know about the other stuff, but my favourite method is to:
i) apply Jenolite over and over again, until you get back to bare metal (or at least mostly bare metal with a peppering of black dots where there is still some rust that I can't be bothered to get rid if)
ii) spray with zinc primer
This seems to works for me - some bits of my car were treated like this in the early 90's and are still fine.
Mark.
i) apply Jenolite over and over again, until you get back to bare metal (or at least mostly bare metal with a peppering of black dots where there is still some rust that I can't be bothered to get rid if)
ii) spray with zinc primer
This seems to works for me - some bits of my car were treated like this in the early 90's and are still fine.
Mark.
- xvivalve
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Re: Rust Converters
Yep, I'm in the Jenolite camp too. It is just phosphoric acid; try not to breathe the fumes even though they are sort of pleasant! Diluted to about 5:1 with water its ideal as an alloy wheel cleaner too!
Here's ..........
Another brand to consider, Bilt Hamber, please see this WEBSITE Bill.
I have used their products myself and was happy enough with the results but that is completely unscientific since I'd need to have tried all the others too to form a decent opinion. Bilt Hamber always score well in comparison tests (eg, those in Practical Classics) but then again they are a major advertiser (not that I'm a cynic).
To be honest, if I was tackling suspension components for instance, I would use a shot blaster then a surface prep (I have used Eastwood's zinc phosphate and this does work). I did successfully strip the Dolomite's components using a Bilt Hamber solution but it took days of steeping.
I haven't used Jenolite myself but have experience of it. My neighbour was repairing his Talbot Solara
a few years ago using this stuff. It had a heavily rusted section on the roof above the middle of the back window. I didn't think it would work but applying Jenolite and repainting showed no sign of the rust returning a couple of years later. So I was proved wrong.
I have used their products myself and was happy enough with the results but that is completely unscientific since I'd need to have tried all the others too to form a decent opinion. Bilt Hamber always score well in comparison tests (eg, those in Practical Classics) but then again they are a major advertiser (not that I'm a cynic).
To be honest, if I was tackling suspension components for instance, I would use a shot blaster then a surface prep (I have used Eastwood's zinc phosphate and this does work). I did successfully strip the Dolomite's components using a Bilt Hamber solution but it took days of steeping.
I haven't used Jenolite myself but have experience of it. My neighbour was repairing his Talbot Solara

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Re: Rust Converters
Rust converters, is that not the name given to the goverment scrapage scheme?
- Toledo Man
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Re: Rust Converters
There's a 5th option. The trusty angle grinder. Used to great effect on Becky, my red Acclaim. (see my "Oh no, not an Acclaim!" thread)
Toledo Man
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Meetings take place on the first Wednesday of the month at 8.00pm at The Railway, 1 Birstall Lane, Drighlington, Bradford, BD11 1JJ
2003 Volvo XC90 D5 SE (PX53 OVZ - The daily driver)
2009 Mercedes-Benz W204 C200 CDI Sport (BJ58 NCV - The 2nd car)
1991 Toyota Celica GT (J481 ONB - a project car)
Former stable of SAY 414M (1974 Toledo), GRH 244D (1966 1300fwd), CDB 324L (1973 1500fwd), GGN 573J (1971 1500fwd), DCP 625S (1977 Dolomite 1300) & LCG 367N (1975 Dolomite Sprint), NYE 751L (1972 Dolomite 1850 auto) plus 5 Acclaims and that's just the Triumphs!
Check my blog at http://triumphtoledo.blogspot.com
My YouTube Channel with a bit of Dolomite content.
"There is only one way to avoid criticsm: Do nothing, say nothing and BE nothing." Aristotle
West Yorkshire Area Organiser
Meetings take place on the first Wednesday of the month at 8.00pm at The Railway, 1 Birstall Lane, Drighlington, Bradford, BD11 1JJ
2003 Volvo XC90 D5 SE (PX53 OVZ - The daily driver)
2009 Mercedes-Benz W204 C200 CDI Sport (BJ58 NCV - The 2nd car)
1991 Toyota Celica GT (J481 ONB - a project car)
Former stable of SAY 414M (1974 Toledo), GRH 244D (1966 1300fwd), CDB 324L (1973 1500fwd), GGN 573J (1971 1500fwd), DCP 625S (1977 Dolomite 1300) & LCG 367N (1975 Dolomite Sprint), NYE 751L (1972 Dolomite 1850 auto) plus 5 Acclaims and that's just the Triumphs!
Check my blog at http://triumphtoledo.blogspot.com
My YouTube Channel with a bit of Dolomite content.
"There is only one way to avoid criticsm: Do nothing, say nothing and BE nothing." Aristotle
Re: Rust Converters
Nice work, get in there!Toledo Man wrote:There's a 5th option. The trusty angle grinder. Used to great effect on Becky, my red Acclaim. (see my "Oh no, not an Acclaim!" thread)
I'm a lot more lazy, and I don't have room for a welder, even if I could afford one.
So the plan is to keep the car in the dry lock-up garage, treat whatever rust in any way I can, and in the spring take the car to my brother's garage 65 miles away and point out the bits he needs to weld for me.

I might go as far as investing in some tin snips and cut some plates ready for him - but I just know they won't be right!
