Guys and gils,
Finaly my Sprint website is up, (I'm not such a compu wiz)
http://www.sprintnl.com/hans.html
Just let me know if it wont open or something.
More to come like racing pictures, ext, but this was alredy quite a strugle.
Hans
Sprint website
... Still Sprintless.
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tinweevil
- Saving up to join the Club!
- Posts: 3936
- Joined: Tue Oct 03, 2006 5:42 pm
- Location: Forest of Dean
Hi Hans,
Great site, please keep it up if you don't mind sharing so many useful secrets:
2 heads bolted at 180 degrees - so obvious when you see it but a handy trick. I was probably taught that at school but it was long forgotten.
3 studs for road and 5 for racing - Is ther a reason not to use 5 studs for all applications? In my exprience the greatest time and so cost in a job like this is in getting the machine set up, getting the working surface levelled. This is the same regardless of the engine application. The extra time taken to drill the 2 more holes and extra cost of the fittings is in my limited experience insignificant.
What on earth is a torque plate?
Custom side mount for engine trolley - another handy idea as no matter which end you bolt to it's in the way sooner or later.
Tinweevil
Great site, please keep it up if you don't mind sharing so many useful secrets:
2 heads bolted at 180 degrees - so obvious when you see it but a handy trick. I was probably taught that at school but it was long forgotten.
3 studs for road and 5 for racing - Is ther a reason not to use 5 studs for all applications? In my exprience the greatest time and so cost in a job like this is in getting the machine set up, getting the working surface levelled. This is the same regardless of the engine application. The extra time taken to drill the 2 more holes and extra cost of the fittings is in my limited experience insignificant.
What on earth is a torque plate?
Custom side mount for engine trolley - another handy idea as no matter which end you bolt to it's in the way sooner or later.
Tinweevil
1978 Pageant Sprint - the rustomite, 1972 Spitfire IV - sprintfire project, 1968 Valencia GT6 II - little Blue, 1980 Vermillion 1500HL - resting. 1974 Sienna 1500TC, Mrs Weevils big brown.
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Hans ten Broeke
What on earth is a torque plate? is the question.
A orque plate is actualy a dummy head, what put the same force onto the block than the head.
These forces deform the cilinder bores slichtly, some week engines op to 2 thou. the sprint engine is not that week but still.
Now we put this plate on and torcue it down, from here you start to macine the bores and hone them to a real perfect round cilinder.
Less blow by is the result.
For an engine till some 175 Din HP I think 3 pins are adecuate, but actualy 5 is perfect to.
The support is special made for drilling the location pins into the block, only 4 mm deep though.
No seecrits only common cense.
The real secrets, and there are afew you first haveto deserve them like Jamy Weidner always told me years ago, ha ha.
What do you think of the test chassis.
Hans
A orque plate is actualy a dummy head, what put the same force onto the block than the head.
These forces deform the cilinder bores slichtly, some week engines op to 2 thou. the sprint engine is not that week but still.
Now we put this plate on and torcue it down, from here you start to macine the bores and hone them to a real perfect round cilinder.
Less blow by is the result.
For an engine till some 175 Din HP I think 3 pins are adecuate, but actualy 5 is perfect to.
The support is special made for drilling the location pins into the block, only 4 mm deep though.
No seecrits only common cense.
The real secrets, and there are afew you first haveto deserve them like Jamy Weidner always told me years ago, ha ha.
What do you think of the test chassis.
Hans
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ALGIK
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tinweevil
- Saving up to join the Club!
- Posts: 3936
- Joined: Tue Oct 03, 2006 5:42 pm
- Location: Forest of Dean
Thanks for the education on torque plates.
The test chassis looks like a really useful tool. Regarding the slip problem - if you add dead weight to the chassis it could become unmanageable particularly when not in use. Instead you could rest a large timber long enough to reach either side of the dyno pit across the chassis. You'd need to weld some supports to the side rails to lift the timber above the prop shaft. Attach ratchet straps from the ends of the timber to loops bolted to the floor. Don't use too big a timber, let it flex a bit. You could also attach straps from the same floor loops directly to the chassis to eliminate sideways movement. The chassis would be little heavier than it is now.
Tinweevil
The test chassis looks like a really useful tool. Regarding the slip problem - if you add dead weight to the chassis it could become unmanageable particularly when not in use. Instead you could rest a large timber long enough to reach either side of the dyno pit across the chassis. You'd need to weld some supports to the side rails to lift the timber above the prop shaft. Attach ratchet straps from the ends of the timber to loops bolted to the floor. Don't use too big a timber, let it flex a bit. You could also attach straps from the same floor loops directly to the chassis to eliminate sideways movement. The chassis would be little heavier than it is now.
Tinweevil
1978 Pageant Sprint - the rustomite, 1972 Spitfire IV - sprintfire project, 1968 Valencia GT6 II - little Blue, 1980 Vermillion 1500HL - resting. 1974 Sienna 1500TC, Mrs Weevils big brown.
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Hans ten Broeke
Hi Tinweevil,
Thanks for the suggestion, but a good part of the Dynojet dyno is the fact that the car is connected to a point about 15 feet away so almost no tie down forces.
This also give the tire the change to act like a shock absorber like on the normal road.
To overcome slippage of the tire and not interfere with this damper effect of the tire. So tie down is to far away from the real world, adding mass is correct, and actually after several thousand runs on this dyno I know there would be slippage with this amount of weight.
We do have a set of electronic scales to set up the cars so I know the weight on the tires and only have to calculate how much to add.
But as always I was just to curious, to test the test chassis.
To get reliable data I have to bring the pressure on the axle the same as the racing cars.
Thanks anyway,
Hans
Thanks for the suggestion, but a good part of the Dynojet dyno is the fact that the car is connected to a point about 15 feet away so almost no tie down forces.
This also give the tire the change to act like a shock absorber like on the normal road.
To overcome slippage of the tire and not interfere with this damper effect of the tire. So tie down is to far away from the real world, adding mass is correct, and actually after several thousand runs on this dyno I know there would be slippage with this amount of weight.
We do have a set of electronic scales to set up the cars so I know the weight on the tires and only have to calculate how much to add.
But as always I was just to curious, to test the test chassis.
To get reliable data I have to bring the pressure on the axle the same as the racing cars.
Thanks anyway,
Hans