Triumph 1500TC Now A Rolling Resto :-) Most Photo's Restored :-)

[DazasDolly]

Hi Everyone

Some photo's of the heater and a few extra bits i'm in the process of doing, I will go to doe's and see if they have the fore-mentioned tractor paint.











Regards

Darren

[DoloWIGHTY]

Lovely work.

Ideal weather you are having for paint drying I would think?

[JPB]

Good work being done here.

Tip: To prevent fresh paint coming off the brass parts such as the expansion tank, give them a rub with 1200 grit, followed by a quick scoosh of etch primer from a rattle can before applying the black. That way, they'll stay black (and so dissipate the heat most efficiently) for longer. I was forever touching in the tank on mine before I did that with it, it hasn't lost any paint in over a year now.

[DazasDolly]

Thanks John And Alan,

Its been roasting around here 32 degrees. So hot in the workshop and too bloody hot to work in the garden.

I was thinking of leaving the rad top and bottom brass coloured and also the expansion tank, what do you think?



Regards

Darren

[JPB]

You might notice the temperature running a little above where you're used to it being, but as you've not put this car on the road yet, I guess that won't be something that would concern you, so why not, yeah, get polishing, but be aware of how much hard graft is needed to keep brass looking that way. OK for an occasionally used car I suppose.

[DazasDolly]

Thanks John

I'm glad in a way, because it would be that little bit different, i've always liked the brass look, do you think when I have the rad re-cored they will keep the brass look.

regards

darren

[JPB]

Most radiator recoring people I've dealt with have had a habit of spraying the whole lot black once they've done the job, and it can cover a multitude of sloppy solder work too!

There's no harm in asking them to try and use solder only in the channels where it's supposed to be and not to paint over the end tanks, but whether they'll do that probably depends on whether they can be bothered.

[DazasDolly]

Good Evening

Well it's been a busy few days, and everything that can be taken off the car is now off ,

today I have taken the following out

gearbox tunnel
propshaft
exhaust
fuel line and petrol tank
brake pipes and servo
clutch cylinder
bulkhead padding
all wiring loom to bulkhead

This resto is now moving with some pace, welding will commence on payday 26th, so between now and then I will be painting what I can ready to be bolted back on. Just can't wait to get her on the road.



















Knd regards

Daz

[sprint95m]

I am enjoying following your progress in this thread Daz.



I have a suggestion if I may..........

fuel line and petrol tank

Replace the fuel pipe with 8mm (5/16") bore kunifer.
If you do so at this stage it is practical to fit a single length, start at the back and use
a proper pipe bender. Also, fit an inline filter before the pump.

[DazasDolly]

Thank you Ian

Will do, im going to replace brake lines too, but im going to wait until I have done the front end welding and put back together so I can turn the old girl round in the garage, it gives me alot more room to work in that way.

It is nice to see people are actually looking, it's also nice to get people's recommendations and suggestions, and praise, as it helps you get past the next hurdle. And gives you a sense that you are going the right way about things.

Many Thanks

Kind Regards

Darren

[DoloWIGHTY]

Hi Darren

Great progress there (as per normal), great bonus too to see the bulkhead looking so solid, most have a hole under the servo and also a vertical stress crack where the throttle pedal lives, your seems fine.

Did the bulkhead sound deadening pad come off in one piece?

[DazasDolly]

Thanks Alan

There's one small hole roughly the size of a 5p piece to the right of the tunnel (passenger side), also when I removed the gearbox tunnel there is a hole the size of a 50p piece next to where the tunnel sits next to the passenger footwell, apart from that all is well.

The sound deadening pad must have been removed at some point as it was in 4 parts, from above the tunnel to the passenger side came off as one piece, the drivers side was already in 3 pieces.

When me and my mate were removing the wiring loom from the drivers side chassis leg, one of the clips has at somepoint started to melt, also the top fuse had tinfoil around so we wonder whether this is the circuit to the lights?

Thank you for your thoughts there always appreciated.

Kind regards

darren

[Purplebargeken]

Good work Darren. Keep going mate.

[DazasDolly]

Thanks Ken, your not doing too bad yourself

I have got to replace my break pipes, i've decided im gonna do this myself, could anyone tell me if this kit would do:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/25FT-COPPER-BRAKE ... 35a0a085a8

Kind regards

Darren

[JPB]

It's a reasonable price for the roll of pipe plus the unions, but you'll still need a length of steel pipe or maybe Kunifer, to do the bits across the back axle. Copper, unless you make a couple of coils to allow for the movement, is not ideal for any application where the cylinders move relative to the backplates. Automec kits do not include enough pipe to allow for the coils, other brands of pre-cut sets may be the same that way. That roll is at least enough to make a couple of replacements the first couple of times the pipes fracture.
Someone, I think it may well have been Ian (Sprint95m), suggested that flexible hoses could be utilised from the ends of the rear axle pipes to the cylinders, an idea that I happen to consider ideal if short pipes (Peugeot 405 rears?) can be sourced or made, but copper work-hardens too quickly for this job and I've seen a few that have failed for that reason, on vehicles using the same rear brake arrangement. (Rebels, Scimitars, etc.)

Yes, this is a pet concern of mine, but I don't think that there's any excuse to risk brake failure for the want of a correct material for the pipes. The failures I've encountered have mostly been on dual-purpose, road/track cars, only one on a pure road car, in all cases, the copper pipes that let go had only been in place for around 10,000 miles. OK, for some that will be more than the 6 Months of use that it represents for me, but why take the risk?