Mission Original BMX

[Aar0sc]

£600?!?

Pessimistic old fart!
Ment in the nicest way possible, sir
My mate's Mini's paintjob cost £300:
Before:

After:


Whaddaya think?

[boybiffa]

300!!! WOW love the color! (very similar color infact,to the TR6 at york last week)

nice,goes with the chrome so well too

rob

[Aar0sc]

300!!! WOW love the color! (very similar color infact,to the TR6 at york last week)

nice,goes with the chrome so well too

rob

The whole car was £800, I think he got quite a bargin! (And could probably sell it for £2k now, and make a £500 profit!).

[boybiffa]

Hhmm even so £800 for that wicked color! bargain! and the finish

Might go and visit a friend tomorrow who does restoration work and so on.. in fact give me two minutes and ill upload some pictures of his work.

Reckon a full complete respray in every nook and crany (except behind the dash,that can stay where it is)

How much "could or would" a full respray cost?

Rob

[Aar0sc]

Hhmm even so £800 for that wicked color! bargain! and the finish

Might go and visit a friend tomorrow who does restoration work and so on.. in fact give me two minutes and ill upload some pictures of his work.

Reckon a full complete respray in every nook and crany (except behind the dash,that can stay where it is)

How much "could or would" a full respray cost?

Rob

No no no, the car in it's entirety was £800, to have it painted lovely blue was £300

[marty dolomite]

No offence taken Aaron I was being conservative on the price as i can get a full prepped spray for £400 a lot of the art is in getting the edges right or it will soon start to blister (from bad prep, damp retention or just not getting the paint on correctly) along the gutter line and on the seams.

[boybiffa]

Well.. I will probably bob down to a friend of my grandads tomorrow morning and ask for a quote.

Here's a project he did earlier this year

Before and after pictures of course

































































NOTE these were uploaded in a random order but i'm sure you can tell how good the work is.

(apart from other items like the engine painting,etc - just for the body repainting on my dolly,all exterior panels,engine bay,underside of bonnet,inside boot,underside painting,door jams,doors inside and out,sills etc etc - just mainly the body,minus behind the dash

How much do you think it would cost for a spray job similar to the above?

Rob

[marty dolomite]

Whilst we are showing undersides here is one I made earlier.......

[JPB]

All that hard work and they go and refit that bloody Pinto to the poor thing! Still, nice Capri though, just the job for arsing around on an industrial estate and playing car football with some stray tea chests.

£800 for the mini? Jeez, when did those get so expensive eh?

[Oli_88]

All that hard work and they go and refit that bloody Pinto to the poor thing! Still, nice Capri though, just the job for arsing around on an industrial estate and playing car football with some stray tea chests.

£800 for the mini? Jeez, when did those get so expensive eh?

Well, it's got to be exactly as it came out of the factory hasn't it?

[JPB]

Yeah, if you're the sort of person who's so anally retentive that theirs has healed right over.
Or if it were a 3 litre S or an RS 2.6 or something special but please, that lump belongs in a Transit van or on the end of a chain, preventing a smuggler's boat drifting too far from his secret meeting just off the coast at dead of night.

[boybiffa]

the original 1600 lump that came with the car was a runner,but it was something he just fitted,I never questioned it as his work on the car just blew me away!

So.. how much should it or would it cost for a full exterior respray?

Doors
bonnet(both sides)
engine bay
front end
rear end
quarter panels
C panels
Wings
sills
kick plate areas
roof
underside rust proofing
and the bubbles on the rear arches

Rob

[JPB]

'Kin loads if you want every last trace of rust cut out and repaired properly before the paint goes on but do it, far too few people bother with the bog stock 1300s and that's a shame.

Saying that, you can get a perfect finish with £40 worth of rattle cans from paints4u. Martin Thaddeus wrote a piece on it in the October PC mag and his words are wise and well worth reading.

[boybiffa]

Thanks John

I very nearly bought £80's worth of bodywork stuff only a few week ago! from my local motor factors

Containing 7 cans of rover mid pageant blue
1 tub of p38 easy sand filler
various sheets of sand paper
various rolls and sizes of masking tapes
sanding blocks
filler spreaders
nitro-morse
few other little things,pricing it all up and would have bought it all,but mot was due.

I could quite easily sort out all the bodywork (over time) - 2 months easy,the only thing is,when I fit the GRP wings and will have to get a bodyshop to spray them,would it look right? as the paint isn't faded and looks pretty good,just has marks,dents and scratches here and there. could i get away with just having the front wings sprayed properly and doing the rest of the bodywork myself out of aerosol cans and plenty of prep? it would make my life so much easier,as it is my daily driver too...

When i filled and sprayed the rear drivers door,it looked pretty good and the color match was perfect with no orange peel.
Perhaps if I started on the on drivers side rear quarter panel dent and the small bubbling sections first,down to bare metal,kurust,filler,sanding,till its flat and right,then building up thin layers of primer,and more sanding etc till im happy,the top coat could easily go on,if it looks anything like my rear drivers side door it would/should look rather good,as for the larger panels il leave those until i have become really good and can feather in the specific area's etc. I know aerosols usually have a lot of thinners in,but if it gives good results and i can feather/blend new paint in...

only thing that would be hard to do is the engine bay could i really remove as much out of the engine bay,cover the engine and mask off other things and still spray the engine bay?

rob

[JPB]

The aerosols from paints4u are really good, their advantages are that they have decent nozzles and are full of cellulose paint, not original to Dolomites but far easier to apply than 2 pack and very responsive to 1200 grit, followed by compound and polish. The ones that were used on my old Sienna Brown car gave a really good coverage and thickly, so there was loads to allow for building up a shine.
The pics in the "today's spots" thread show the car half done, but that roof is representative of the match and the shine available out of a can nowadays. I wouldn't have risked doing the largest panel on the car that way myself, but having now seen the sort of finish that's possible, outside, in 80+% humidity and an air temperature of around 74 degrees which - according to conventional wisdom - is far too hot for applying a solvent-based paint, I'd use aerosols on anything now.
Whatever you do, the prep work is the key, quite literally, so take as long as you need to hand flat the whole car, make sure that there's no rust or holes under the body solder or - if you must - Cataloy and make sure that your guide coat is a colour which can be identified clearly in the lighting conditions you have when the job is done. I failed to do that when I painted one of the kittens, so couldn't see the guide coat against its brown gelcoat, result was that it was immediately obvious which bits were in the original (gelcoat) finish and which had been painted.
Just don't be tempted to use any water or soap on the GRP bits as the surface tissue absorbs water if there are any bits where you rub through the gelcoat, then you get blisters just as you do when there's paint over rusty steel, beyond that, treat it as you would steel and don't be afraid of it. Be sure to use some sort of anti-stonechip on the reverse side of the wings before you bond or bolt them on, otherwise any stone chips from beneath will expose mat and risk those wet areas and blisters as well as star cracks.

If you don't already have the October magazine, beg or borrow a look at one as Martin's piece on rattle can painting is top stuff and his advice has always worked for me - when I've bothered to take it!