Mission Original BMX

[boybiffa]

Thanks for info their John!

Haven't got my October copy yet,sounds like it good be a good idea to have a read through the paint article.

Also Just been outside and taken photo's of the various marks,dings and scabs.


along the drivers door edge


drivers kick plate area paint worn through to primer below(same on passenger side)


Paint has worn thin and is showing the primer underneath


small scab underneath boot lid chrome trim


the two small scabs under the chrome trim.


surface rust on area above tail-light


same area as above but in more detail


other side,surface rust


runs in the paint along rear valance


scabs on boot with boot lid closed.


area of peeling paint around boot lock and marks on this section of boot lid.


small scab behind chrome trim


dimples on surface of boot lid.


area of rust bubbling on passenger side wheel arch.


few small marks on passenger side rear arch


front of passenger side arch,rust bubbles.


not sure if this has shown up in photo,but along the stepped edge of the roof,the paint has thinned is showing primer underneath


another photo,hopefully you might just be able to see the thin paint


marks along passenger side sill


the finish along the passenger side sill.


paint finish and small dents on passenger side front door


same dent as above,spread upon passenger side rear door and paint finish


small scab under chrome trim piece


tiny rust spot on roof,near windscreen


driver side front valance few small scabs and blemishes




passenger side front valance,few scabs and marks


front top edge (where the "step" edge is,that joins along to wing may have been filled and has marks too.


stone chip


rust on bonnet


peeling paint under windscreen wiper spindle


peeling paint on drivers side,rear section above rear door.


drivers door scab on lower half,paint finish not great and various marks


lower section has been filled (hence chrome strip is placed in boot,awaiting clips,top section below silver pinstripe has pin prick affect,above pin stripe has various marks


drivers side sill,paint finish,gritty to the touch and few marks and scabs


light surface dimples on the upper section of the panel (not sure if it showed in the photo,but is there)


small scab under chrome trim along C panel


few small scabs along lower section of this panel,and around the bolting area of quarter section of bumper


small scab along defined edge


painting peeling under defined line step section


rust bubbling in front of arch


close up of rust bubbles around bolting bracket of rear quarter section


rust bubbles drivers side rear arch (black at the bottom around mud flap area,gave it a coat of hammerite to protect it best i can


worst dent.

So.. When the October copy arrives and I have the funds etc,Im thinking of starting on the smaller area's - such as the dent above,and arch and go from their

Paints4u doesn't seem to have paint code JMA OR JGA - Pageant blue OR Rover mid pageant blue.

Is it really as bad as it could be? requires no welding,just surface and bubbling.

How much would a second hand good drivers side rear door?

Rob

[JPB]

You may have to order an October mag directly from Bauer as the November edition landed on the doormat this morning so I doubt that October's will be available for much longer.

[boybiffa]

Could you possibly scan or even take a photo of the article for me? be a great help if you could

Also,while on fleabay yesterday I noticed a pair of sun visors (with mirror intact) going for 99p,put a bid on this morning,just ended up getting them for 99p! (current ones are ok,but passenger side mirror has come away inside and looks a bit ropey.

Rob

[JPB]

In the old days, when PC was stapled together, it was so easy to scan chunks of it, but since it's been perfect bound (with a spine) it's a bugger to get in the scanner, I'll experiment with photos and see what I can do.
Feel free to remind me if you've seen nothing by tomorrow.

[boybiffa]

ok thanks John

I have been looking up the best techniques on the internet,paints4u does seem to be the popular choice among classic car owners. So when I do have the funds I will sending a request for £40's worth of "rover mid pageant blue",then a trip to a local motor factors for the other bits,filler (to smarten up any edges area's that may have reseeded slightly. and the other stuff.

on a plus note I am back in work!!! - back at royal mail for the time being ( So i can really get this thing moving on )

All these little marks,scabs and bubbles don't let the car down too much,But I would sooner get them done and sorted,so it doesn't go and turn into whole panels that need sorting. And begin requiring even more work. (plus carefully considering the area's that need doing Will actually be rather easy to blend in with the rest of the panels too)

Might have to buy a gazebo and place this over the car when touching up these area's ( i would like to get it done before winter really sets in,so come spring time,the front wings that are currently fitted can be cut off,wing rails cleaned up if needed,any welding that might be required can be done and I can then get on and fit the club GRP items. and along with one or two other small things,the car should be looking pretty good.

Rob

[Sprint East]

Rob, have a word with your insurance company before you commit to GRP wings, tell them that you intend to replace welded on steel wings with bolted / bonded on GRP ones and see if your premium is affected. I have had trouble myself when thinking about replacing welds with bolts and that was retaining the steel wings.

It might well be that it makes no difference but make sure you do declare it because if you have a front ender (heaven forbid) and someone gets hurt by shards of shattered fibreglass they will get stroppy about it.

Lat me know if you need that copy of PC, I have read mine now so can rip out the pages and scan them for you if you like.

John

[boybiffa]

Hi sprint east

I did ask them when I first bought the car,would it affect the cost of my premium if I were to fit "only" replacement panels,as the original front wings aren't at there best. and the only available panels are now fibreglass items.,which they said if its just a direct replacement and is going to be fitted with fibreglass due to a shortage or lack of original steel items. This would be fine with no extra charge,how You will need to phone us back so we can add the information to the policy. "there would be a charge if the panels were bubble arched or different in style from those of the original items. to which i said nope,just direct replacement for the original steel items which are very hard to come by. - which said that was fine.

As for the copy of PC - if you can,I would really appreciate it

Thanks

Rob

[boybiffa]

Also just looked under "1979 Rover group JNA-JAG" on paints4u and Pageant blue was in the list! but not under triumph. Either way I know they have the paint I need now

might not be too long before I begin touching up various area's then

Rob

[Sprint East]

PM sent

[boybiffa]

Many thanks Sprint East (one of the links didn't find the server or something) But I get the general idea at what the article was saying! Thanks for sending me the pics!

As it happens,thats actually a very similar approach to when i filled and painted the lower section of that rear passenger door on the drivers side.

But I used standard Hycote 150ml rover mid pageant blue rattle cans,Not the proper,better stuff as seen in the article.

Im now thinking of spraying - possibly within the next 2-3 weeks (depending on weather) - then next spring.. its front wings !

Thanks again fella's!

Rob

[Sprint East]

Try the dodgy link again Rob it should work now.

[boybiffa]

thanks all sorted now

can't wait to get started,but might be a couple of weeks before anything further happens.

I'll update with more progress and plenty of photo's

Thanks for all the help and info guys

Rob

[boybiffa]

While doing routine checks under the bonnet on sunday,I noticed that around the 2nd cylinder (one nearest windscreen) had signs of dampness around the spark plug area,I took out the spark plug to find it all black and covered in soot. Took out the spark plug on cylinder 4 to find the same,electrode and end of plug in general covered in soot,so just to confirm it. I took out plug on cylinder 3 to find a light "brownish/grey" covering. (suggesting a nice setup).
The end of the tailpipe internally is also covered in black soot. I cleaned the ends of the plugs,and reinstated them (back in the cylinders that they came from).
Since then after doing approx 80 miles,I have rechecked them to find a light brown/grey covering but the area around the electrode (end of the threaded section) was beginning to look sooty.

Since reinstating the spark plug on cylinder No 2 there seems to be no signs of any weeping or dampness and fuel economy seems a lot better than before.
As for the sooty plugs and exhaust pipe,It seems to suggest that when the carb was adjusted for the MOT in August,that the current mixture settings are a little too rich. (also confirmed by the recent drop in oil level on the dipstick,Doesn't show any blue smoke from the exhaust when running,but could explain this to some degree)
How do I go about adjusting the carburetor? to set the mixture correctly?
I have and currently am looking in the haynes,but can anyone confirm the best way of adjusting the mixture settings?

Thanks

Rob

[Sprint East]

The best way is with an exhaust gas analyser or colourtune but some say you can get a rough setting by using the lift pin underneath the dashpot. The idea is to press it upwards until you feel contact with the piston and then lift it another 1mm. This leans off the mixture a little. If the engine revs increase with this weaker mixture and remain increased, your mixture is too rich so lean it off a bit. If the revs drop when the pin is lifted your mixture is too lean. If the revs initially raise as the pin is lifted then revert to the original RPM or very slightly above, and you have long blonde curly hair, your mixture is just right and so is your porridge.

Whenever I try it makes sod all difference to the revs whatever the mixture Anyone know why?

PS I mis spelt analyser in the above paragraph and the spell checker suggested 'anal-user'

[Jon Tilson]

cos if you have a Sprint the long inlet manifold masks the effect so that its almost imperceptible...

When I do a sprint or 1950 I do one carb at a time at 1000 rpm and rev up frequentlly between adjustment attempts. Also critical to have ignition setup and for car to be at normal operating temp. Drive at least 10 miles....a quick warm up on the driveway is usless.

Jonners