Napoleon Dolomite - Orange 1300

[Toledo Man]

Try turning it clockwise until the revs go up and then road test it. If it pinks then move it anticlockwise until it stops pinking. It is better to do it by ear. The book figures are useless for unleaded.

[xsquared_uk]

Great, will do - I think I probably need to get it roughly right, stick the colourtune on to get the mixture somewhere in the ballpark, then test like you said - I think part of the problem is that the mixture is way out to compensate for how badly it was running on the old coil and points, it all needs baselining and setting up again, plugs cleaning, etc.

Must also point out - massive thanks to Mike (MikeyB) for sending me a new fuel cap and key to replace the one I had to chisel off when the key snapped off in the cold (I wasn't being brutal with it, it was that cold it tore like cheese!). As many of you probably know already, a really nice chap and very helpful - thanks again!

[Toledo Man]

I've gotta second what you said about Mike. If it wasn't for him I wouldn't have been able to get Brown going again when the drive plate broke on the way to last year's TDCIR. A very helpful chap.

Like the ignition timing the mixture can be fine tuned. Adjust it one flat at a time and road test until you get the best results. A Colourtune would help you get it spot on.

[xsquared_uk]

OK, so the car has been in to the garage to have the rear bushes changed - I decided that I didn't fancy the job myself just now so I got them to do it while they were sorting out the other parts... turned out it took them that long to get the old bushes off that they didn't have time to do the front end which was why I booked it in! Never mind, they're having it back next week to finish off.

It feels loads better now, although it does still slightly steer on the throttle - anyone know what might be causing this now the rear end bushes have all been replaced (with standard ones not poly)?

To celebrate that, and also because my other half needed dropping off and picking up from work, I took the opportunity this morning to do some dizzy adjustments and road testing, and got the timing set up really nicely. The steering wheel doesn't throb about like it did before on idle, the clattering valve noises have died right down, there's power (well, as much as can be expected!) and no pinking that I can tell. I also got the Colourtune on the go but that was a bit of a failure, no matter where I turn the mixture nut I get an orange flame. According to the manual this means the jet is probably clogged or knackered, which would explain why the fuel consumption is so poor. Anyone know of a rebuild kit for a Dolly S.U. carb and if it's within the capabilities of a halfwit like me to perform?

Oh, and just to top it off I FINALLY put some oil on the clutch pedal linkage which was squeaking every time I pressed the clutch and doing my head in... same goes for the passenger door hinge so that got some too.

[Carledo]

It's easy enough to change the main jet and the carb needle which may be worn or bent, in any case if you're changing one it's best to do both! Best to remove the carb first then undo the union nut connecting the pipe to the base of the float chamber and the small pk screw securing the jet to the choke linkage and remove the jet. Replacement is a direct reversal..... For the needle, remove dashpot with 3 screws, remove the piston and unscrew flat bladed screw in bottom side of piston and withdraw needle. note when replacing that shoulder at top end of needle should be flush with underside of piston. Don't forget to refill the dashpot with atf or whatever you like best! Jets and needles available from Burlen and probably many others too, hope this helps, Steve

[Toledo Man]

Jimmy, you can get a rebuild kit. There should be a tag on one of screws for the float chamber lid. You'll need to quote the number stamped on the tag when you order the kit. I can lend you a carb so your car isn't out of action while you rebuild your carb. You might as well clean it at the same time. If you want I can give you a hand.

The rear suspension bolts might need retorquing. I had to do this on Becky II after I had new suspension arms fitted for the recent MoT.

[xsquared_uk]

Cheers fellas, had a look and it's coming in at about £74 for a full rebuild kit including VAT and delivery. I will start saving some pennies, although it'd probably save me that much in fuel pretty quickly!

[xsquared_uk]

Hmm, I had a look and the identifying tag is missing from my carb.... curses! Someone has helpfully snapped it off and left a little bit of red tag to annoy me.

As I understand it, there are no marks stamped on the body? I'd imagine it's a HS4 and it has a waxstat rather than a fixed jet, anyone who knows a bit more about these things care to take a guess at which it is...? Don't think it's been modified from standard spec but you never know. It certainly doesn't have any odd air filters or other performance type gubbins. I'd imagine it's important because I might need a kit which lets me rebuild/replace the waxstat...? I know these came in on Minis in about '76 so with my car being '77 it might be on the cusp of the change.

[xsquared_uk]

... just had a look on the SU site - typical - if it's a 76-77 then it needs one kind of rebuild kit, if it's a 77 it needs another, and 78 - 79 is different again!

[Jordan T]

I was planning on getting one of these for my Toledo, and get them to fit the appropriate needle and what not.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MINI-SU-CARB- ... 624wt_1185

Seems pretty cheap for something so shiny

[Carledo]

The waxstat jet has a largish silver mushroom effort at the very bottom of the jet, the normal fixed jet is parallel all the way down with a rounded bottom usually covered in coloured plastic, black or red is most common. The waxstat jet is quite a PITA and is worth replacing with a fixed type anyway, this may already have been done! The recon carb Jordan showed is not a bad price it just depends whether they have access to the correct jets and needles for the Triumph app, but you may not need to go that far, unless the throttle spindle bearings are badly worn I would start with a new jet and needle and a good clean up. Steve

[xsquared_uk]

Yeah, definitely a waxstat on mine with the mushroom type end piece - like you say, could well be that causing a problem if they're not much cop - Burlen seem to want about 200 quid for a carb so that's a pretty decent price for a recon. Plus, as Jordan says it comes with extra shiny which is always a winner! Just had to buy another car for the missus though so might have to struggle through with mine for a short while, then see where I'm at.

[xsquared_uk]

Had a reply from the guys on the eBay link Jordan provided :

Hi, There are quite a few variants on the dolomite 1300, the best thing
would be for you to send your carb to us and we can build an exact replica.
The cost would be £89.00 & £8.50 return postage.

-turner.carbs

Considering the service kit is 74 quid, that's pretty tempting...

[Toledo Man]

That sounds about right. The going price was about £75 a few years ago. You're lucky that you only have one carb to refurb. Go for it. My offer still stands if you want to keep your car going while your carb's being refurbed.

[xsquared_uk]

Sounds like a plan, cheers - just need to work out when I can afford to send it off.