DoloWIGHTY wrote:Sorry to go off topic here Ian, why can't a LT77 box be fitted to a Dolomite Slant 4?
I have never said anything about the LT77 at any time.
I know you didn't.
Just I thought that the type 9 conversion (to obtain 5 forward gears) seems an odd choice when there was a 5 speed gearbox already available from the factory on a car with a near identical engine, therefore (wrongly) I assumed that you would have looked into this rather than attempting to fit a gearbox from another manufacturer, for a car from another era, sorry I thought (wrongly) that this would have been your first port of call?
More pondering to do.
Originally I was going to use a Dolomite propshaft with a Ford front sliding knuckle joint.
Having acquired a Capri 2.8 propshaft I am now wondering if I should try to use this with a Dolomite knuckle for the diff
given that it features a superior centre mounting and a middle CV joint?
Probably change 'boxes the week after next.
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sprint95m wrote:More pondering to do.
Originally I was going to use a Dolomite propshaft with a Ford front sliding knuckle joint.
Having acquired a Capri 2.8 propshaft I am now wondering if I should try to use this with a Dolomite knuckle for the diff
given that it features a superior centre mounting and a middle CV joint?
Probably change 'boxes the week after next.
would the length be correct? are you planning on changing the rear flange to a dolly one? if so afaik ford used ''staked'' joints and as such not really rebuildable. saying that you may get away with having the ford side staked and the dolly side done properly with circlips, if the center is the same size...
Indeed, the Capri propshaft does have staked joints, Craig.
The tube diameter is the same as a Dolomite (2") so it is a case of cutting and welding.
At some point in the future I'll have to get a bespoke propshaft made.
(As an aside, I have a brand new Ford Transit centre mounting. Given that this has the same bearing diameter (30mm)
as a Dolomite and, with a little imagination, this is an option for Dolomites.
I believe that Carl has uses one on the bespoke propshaft made for his Sprint?)
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That'll not work because it is the wrong version of a type 9, having come from a Sierra 1600.
It should be the V6 petrol, 2300 diesel or 1800 TD box. The input shaft on the other version is not long enough
to reach the spigot bearing.
Given the cost of Dolomite 1850HL clutch plates, you'd want to do it properly.
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Sorry to go off topic here, do you show your car at any classic shows? i'm a Thurso man myself but have stayed in Inverness for the last 17 years. i've got a 1977 dolly 1500HL auto and do a lot of shows around the highland area.
Craig, from the base of the release bearing sleeve (where the arrow is pointing) to the tip is just under 18cm.
The tip itself is almost 5cm long.
It is possible to change the input shafts but obviously this would involve stripping the 'box.
I know where there is the other type of 'box if you want me to check its dimensions by way of a comparison......
Hopefully, I'll get a chance to change 'boxes this coming weekend.
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kevtrix wrote:Sorry to go off topic here, do you show your car at any classic shows? i'm a Thurso man myself but have stayed in Inverness for the last 17 years. i've got a 1977 dolly 1500HL auto and do a lot of shows around the highland area.
Kevin.
No.
To be honest I have very little interest in car shows but do go to Groats every two years to see the various Round Britain cars.
I remember seeing an automatic Dolomite at Alness (so that must have been in the 90s?). It was for sale and I think it was brown.
There are two Sprints I know of that are regularly shown, one is a Mimosa yellow M reg from Orkney and the other is French Blue
and I believe it is from the North East. It usually has a cylinder head exhibited along with it. I have not met either owner.
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Taken the gearbox tunnel out.
Measured the space available and the type 9 gearbox is too long because the gear lever will just foul on the transmission tunnel.
The solution is to have the gearbox remote modified to move the position of the gear lever forward, which is the same as what
is necessary for fitting these gearboxes to a Vitesse or GT6.
Another delay!
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Finally got round to removing the gearbox remote. Managed that OK but can't figure out how to remove the selector rod .
The Haynes manual I have (which doesn't actually cover the long input shaft type 9) shows two versions but what I have is
different again. Can probably manage without actually removing the rod but having looked at it, now wish to know how it is fitted !
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Made some progress of sorts.
Found a local welder who can modify the (alloy) gearbox casing to move the gearstick position.
However he couldn't actually do it because the welding machine is in need of repair. He is on holiday next week
so hopefully will get the casing done in a fortnight.
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!