Slant 4 water pump howto...

[Sprintinbits]

Jonners, what an excellent guide
I'm slowly but surely rebuilding my waterpump at the moment.
The impeller is currently away being machined.

I'm having the machining done to fit a ceramic 'polo' to mate with the graphite seal. Reputedly cures water leaks forever.
See here....
http://www.ldparts.co.uk/shop/shop.php? ... d6f774341b

See current photos below for an assembled pump prior to recon, and a stripped pump (minus impeller) + repair kit .
I'll post the impeller pics when I get it back.




At the top of this pic is the disassembled waterpump.
I used string to help me remember the assembly order and orientation.
The bottom part of the board shows the repair kit from Tony Hart.
The only things different for my application is that I will source a new circlip and use the graphite seal which matches up to the ceramic 'polo' insert. I have a sneaky suspicion that the graphite seal will be identical to the one shown. I still need the ceramic part though

[trackerjack]

you could get an ohv engine instead and avoid all the trouble!

Yep and go a lot lot slower for the same fuel and keep rebuilding the knocking bottom ends
Advantages are that you get to see more of the English countryside cos your going so slow and you also get to see something that slant owners don't.....................a clear road in front.

All joking aside this guide of yours Jonners is topfololop

[Latham_F2]

Excellent guide, just one more thing I'd suggest....

In the first step while checking the pump is the culprit, it's worth having a prod around in the slot to make sure it isn't blocked.

I had a pump go on a mate's 1850, no water leaking outside the engine because the slot was full of oily rust, but there was plenty of water getting into the oil.

Unfortunately he'd taken it to a couple of garages and had been told by the pros it was a head gasket job, so we did that first.

Never mind, live and learn.

[Sprintinbits]

OK so waterpump machined for ceramic 'polo'


The full replacement top seal with rubber insert holding it in place (the insert is discarded at assembly)


The top seal and ceramic 'polo' separated from the rubber insert.


Polo in position, shiny side up (I eventually used Wickes external grade silicon to hold it in place permanently)


This method is supposed to be the best way to keep the coolant in.
Let's see what happens...

[yellowmelo]

hi can anyone throw some light on my problem with my dolomite sprint, it gets warm when i go up hills and cools down when going back down hill , radiator has been recored, i have no thermostat in and have an electric fan on as well, heater gets hot, which i thought it shouldnt without a thermostat in, ive drained it within acordance to BL workshop manual and filled it,its been mentioned to me it could be veins on water pump corroded, its been back flushed a few times too, as a last resort head gasket, anybody got any ideas as to what to try first or any other ideas?

[triple tango]

first off, fit the proper thermostat as it has a foot on it to prevent water going along the by pass port. Without it not all the water will run through the rad.

[xvivalve]

it gets warm when i go up hills and cools down when going back down hill

Well it will, won't it? Its when it doesn't cool down you really need to worry!

I presume it gets dramatically hot? As Roy says, first fit a thermostat; its supposed to be there, guess what, it regulates engine heat.

If the problem then persists I would suggest either an air lock or you have had an inferior core fitted to the rad - it doesn't have a diagonal element to it such that it has a repeating triangular pattern to it does it? If so its fit for an 1850 but not a Sprint (though in times of poverty I've run a Sprint on an 1850 rad without any trouble whatsoever). To overcome an air lock you need to fill the system with the heater at 'hot' and run the engine with the top filler cap off for a short while whilst air purges itself from the system.

Presuming of course that you aren't loosing coolant?

Welcome by the way!

Al

[Jon Tilson]

Sorry Colin I think I lost the plot here soemwhere...
Is this the seal that is now supplied by the likes of Fitchetts, Robsport et al...?
If so doesnt the rubber top bit just sit snugly under the impellor and the sealing just happen lower down? So why machine the impellor. In my case having used the "internal" type of seal I didnt need the have the impellor machined at all...
Or is this a new type of seal available from another supplier...???

Confused....but likley to do another pimp soon...

Jonners

[straylight]

sorry for the thread necromancy, but since this is the famous jonners water pump howto, seems best to add to it.

I'm moving from the back of the latest engine to the front and it was the turn of Mr Water Pump.

Getting it off was relatively easy, bit of a hefty thumping with a rubber mallet got the top off.




6 vane impeller




thought about making up the slide hammer, but the shortage of LH thread 5/16 bolts hearabouts put stop to that. Instead put the welder into action. Ignore the missing nut and was able to lift it out by screwing down on the remaining bolt.

cleaned out the rust deposits with a vacuum cleaner

being eager at this point, I disobeyed jonners cardinal rule

Be carefull as the impellor can shatter if too much hammering is used...Press is much kinder.

so, moral here is don't hold it in a vice and try and tap the LH bolt down while supporting the base of the impeller. I didn't exactly use a sledge hammer, but was getting a bit carried away.

so, with a few candidates as replacements (two 1850 engines and an in bits sprint engine) I dug out a spare:


luckily it is also 6 vaned, so no need to switch the tops.

But jonners, how exactly does the impeller "drift free" from the pump ? I'm not game to bring the hammer anywhere near this one. I'm also confused why the replacement has a different cage.

this was so easy the first time around I wonder what I did right

stu

[ponchoj]

I'm just reassembling mine now, but it's cuppa time.

I don't think I would have got it apart without a press. Pretty straightforward otherwise.

I'm lucky enough to be able to do the machining myself, but it wouldn't cost much to have done anyway. It's only a 2 min job on a lathe. I turned the impellor round and put it back on the chaft then spun it up like that.

Mine came out without the basket, so I've got to remove that next. I presume that's not too much of a challenge though considering it's just brass and 0-rings?


My gear is quite worn though. I would imagine that's something I'm going to have to look at in the near future. Are they prone to wearing the teeth like that? I can only imagine poor oil delivery to the gears would cause such wear.




Oh, and I made a slide hammer with a left hand thread at the end that fits the pump. If anyone local ever wants to borrow it then they can feel free. It took a fair amount of hammering to remove mine but it held up, so it might come in handy for someone.

[sprint95m]

My gear is quite worn though. I would imagine that's something I'm going to have to look at in the near future. Are they prone to wearing the teeth like that? I can only imagine poor oil delivery to the gears would cause such wear.

(I guess you have a 12 vane impellor).
From information gathered in Club magazines, I am under the impression that the wear is caused by excessive loading of the gears.
Sprintspares used to recommend increasing the water pump cover clearance to hopefully prevent this from occurring.


Maybe now is the time to fit one of these expansion tanks...........?

[ponchoj]

I've looked at it a bit more.

The gear wear is down to the bearing not being fitted properly (or it has moved) allowing the whole shaft to ride up and wear away the impellor on the top cover.

I didn't notice it as strange to begin with (I've never seen a sprint pump), but there are 'noggins' on the inside of each vane about 3mm high. It's where the impellor has worn away on the top cover. Obviously the gears have been meshing compeletely wrong as a result of the loose bearing.

I'm at a dilemma now. It looks like I'm going to need both an impellor and a top cover, since the top cover will have obviously taken some abuse. I'll struggle to bodge this.


What a s*%&er

[sprint95m]

Please note that there are three water pump covers, namely
early 6 vane
late 6 vane
and 12 vane.
(There are also two different hose tails used and these are not interchangeable).

Rimmers have new 12 vane covers in their current sale.

[ponchoj]

Ahh great.

Any ideas where I can get a new impellor?

[Jon Tilson]

Never seen a cage like the one on the left.
I have had to use a press occasionally to seperate impellor from the spindle. A soak with plusgas or equivalent will help, as would doubtless
some subtle flame heating of the impellor.

Poncho I think Sprint Spares in Oz had some new 12 vane impellors made up in alloy at reasonable prices. Have a look back through past threads.

Using the "fit impellor last" method will give you some certainty that the bearing and seal have stayed put in the cage. You can tap the end of the shaft and "feel" it into the bush before you fit the impellor.

Jonners