1850 Clutch problem

[Dyna]

Hi Folks

As you know hubby is converting and it's been going pretty ok until today. The clutch fork arm looks to be in a already depressed clutch position. It's a size able distance between the slave cylinder and the arm making the actuator rod being extended quite a bit. Didn't look right but before that the clutch hose broke so we didn't even get a chance to check it.

Anyways it would be super if anyone know the distance it should be between clutch fork arm and slave cylinder or could take a picture of how it looks..

Sincerely Dyna

[beefertoo]

can/will do in the morning...

craig

[soe8m]

There are several types of slave cylinders with the mounting ears at different offsets. That can explain the long distance. If the fork does not show bending or warping the wrong cylinder is fitted.

Jeroen

[Dyna]

Thanks Craig, and gosh is that hose expensive 50 pounds on Rimmer... ugh you have have more fun for your money. Think I might need to check if there is a hydraulic hose company somewhere in the South of London..

Cheers Dyna

[DavePoth]

IIRC someone made up some braided ones...

[Dyna]

[quote="soe8m"]There are several types of slave cylinders with the mounting ears at different offsets. That can explain the long distance. If the fork does not show bending or warping the wrong cylinder is fitted.

Jeroen[/qoute]

No arms looks as they should and it's the cylinder that came with the lot. We bought the whole lot from the same car, cylinder, clutch, flywheel, gearbox etc.

Let me take a pic of how it looks now even if the cylinder isn't there...

Cheers Dyna

[Dyna]

Ok so we went out and put back the slave, took some pictures and messured the distance between the arm and the slave. Top of slave to arm is ~45mm (about 1-3/4"). The push rod is just 3" or about 75mm but that includes the mushroom on top and the distance inside the slave. Thinking there is no more than 15mm - 20mm of movement at the very most.

The pics speaks by them self. Arm looks as you can see normal. Maybe someone can spot what is wrong -- or is this how it should be???






Cheers Dyna

[soe8m]

Wrong offset cylinder.

Jeroen

[beefertoo]

dyna, been out and measured mine, from the arm to the mtg face on the bellhousing is 3 3/8. hope this helps

craig

[Dyna]

Super thanks Craig,

It's 100% the wrong slave we have. It's the wrong offset as Jeroen says. It's funny since we bought a whole setup from rear axle all the way to the flywheel and the slave was the one sitting on the box. Talked to hubby and his guess is that it will kind of work but barely (we never got the chance since the hose burst since it was pretty chafed) . Anyways ordered a new slave and hose. Think we need to buy a kit to make your own clutch and brake hoses with all the hoses we bought over time it will for sure be cheaper (Well unless you really need one of those 5000 pound crimping presses).

Cheers Dyna

[MIG Wielder]

I've just measured my 1850 as well, and I agree very closely. 80 mm or 3.18 inches from operating lever to front flange where the bolt is. On depressing the clutch I only get 11 mm movement measured at the same point which I think may be a little low ??
However one thing I was going to add was it would be good to check the operating fork pivot as well while it is still out of the car. This does tend to be a weak point on 1850's
HTH,
Tony.

[Jon Tilson]

Various slaves were fitted but that one looks like a recent refit. Lost of Land Rover ones are a close match to O-E.

The push rod length goes with the slave.

How did the hose break? DId it burst or did it rust out by the unions? You can maybe cut the steel bit shorter and fit a new union and reflare.

You dont actually need a flexible hose. Ordinary pipe with a coil in to allow for the flex will do., Thats what Spits get out of the box.

If your slave is no use I can probably find you a spare one. I'm not far away.

Jonners

[Dyna]

Thank you so much Tony. I will have hubby checking the distance. One thing we talked about was the distance between the front of the cylinder (where rubber cover is so to say) to the front of the lever. If the offset is the wrong the distance here will be to great and operating range of the cylinder will not be enough (hubby's things since this starting to fly over my head).

MadMart have a pic of from the side of a 1850 cylinder and even I can see it has a different offset. The end of the cylinder will be closer to the arm making it possible to push the arm further. Anyways, hubby cleaned out all the dirt inside the bell housing, cleaned all arms and so forth and inspected it all, before applying grease and assembling it all. He told me that the fork pivot is in excellent condition.

Here is a pic of MadMart's 1850 cylinder:



Sincerely Dyna

I've just measured my 1850 as well, and I agree very closely. 80 mm or 3.18 inches from operating lever to front flange where the bolt is. On depressing the clutch I only get 11 mm movement measured at the same point which I think may be a little low ??
However one thing I was going to add was it would be good to check the operating fork pivot as well while it is still out of the car. This does tend to be a weak point on 1850's
HTH,
Tony.

[Jon Tilson]

Thats the usual 1850 one. The landrover one is similar to the Sprint one and needs a longer pushrod.

Jonners

[Dyna]

I've just measured my 1850 as well, and I agree very closely. 80 mm or 3.18 inches from operating lever to front flange where the bolt is. On depressing the clutch I only get 11 mm movement measured at the same point which I think may be a little low ??
However one thing I was going to add was it would be good to check the operating fork pivot as well while it is still out of the car. This does tend to be a weak point on 1850's
HTH,
Tony.

Measured here too:

We have about ~75mm from the front of the flange where the bolt is on the slave it self to the arm.
We have about ~48mm from the front of the slave cyl it self to the arm so there is not much room for movement..

Cheers Dyna