Oil Pressure Gauges

[JPB]

Lovely work! At least the passenger can keep an eye on it for you!

And when the end of the capillary fractures, it's that passenger who gets hot oil all over their feet. Seems a case of perfect gauge placement work to me.

[Aar0sc]

Lovely work! At least the passenger can keep an eye on it for you!

And when the end of the capillary fractures, it's that passenger who gets hot oil all over their feet. Seems a case of perfect gauge placement work to me.

Shouldn't do, it's a nylon one.

And it's perfectly visible from the driver's seat, I don't think people realise just how narrow a Spitfire is - I can easily open and close the passenger door from the driver's seat, whilst strapped in.

[Carledo]

Ancient thread revival I know, but the names were useful to me.

Needing a temp guage sender adaptor for a MGB type dual capillary guage into a Sprint, this page sent me to the Speedograph/Richfield website (still running) and thus to a large and confusing chart of all the temp guage adaptors they do.

To save anyone else the trouble, the one you want (for a slant at least) is TE5! The bit is cheap enough at £3.50, the shipping isn't! but beggars can't be choosers so i've ordered one anyway!

Steve

[new to this]

Ancient thread revival I know, but the names were useful to me.

Needing a temp guage sender adaptor for a MGB type dual capillary guage into a Sprint, this page sent me to the Speedograph/Richfield website (still running) and thus to a large and confusing chart of all the temp guage adaptors they do.

To save anyone else the trouble, the one you want (for a slant at least) is TE5! The bit is cheap enough at £3.50, the shipping isn't! but beggars can't be choosers so i've ordered one anyway!

Steve

Steve

Have you worked out how long you need for the oil pipe for the gauge ?

Dave

[Carledo]

Ancient thread revival I know, but the names were useful to me.

Needing a temp guage sender adaptor for a MGB type dual capillary guage into a Sprint, this page sent me to the Speedograph/Richfield website (still running) and thus to a large and confusing chart of all the temp guage adaptors they do.

To save anyone else the trouble, the one you want (for a slant at least) is TE5! The bit is cheap enough at £3.50, the shipping isn't! but beggars can't be choosers so i've ordered one anyway!

Steve

Steve

Have you worked out how long you need for the oil pipe for the gauge ?

Dave

The oil pipe I have was supplied by the customer and is a tad too long (putting it mildly) I reckon 2m should be enough. On the other hand, a bit of slack is handy when pulling the dash out, it's useful to not have to remove a pipe full of oil to change a dash bulb!

Steve

[new to this]

Ancient thread revival I know, but the names were useful to me.

Needing a temp guage sender adaptor for a MGB type dual capillary guage into a Sprint, this page sent me to the Speedograph/Richfield website (still running) and thus to a large and confusing chart of all the temp guage adaptors they do.

To save anyone else the trouble, the one you want (for a slant at least) is TE5! The bit is cheap enough at £3.50, the shipping isn't! but beggars can't be choosers so i've ordered one anyway!

Steve

Steve

Have you worked out how long you need for the oil pipe for the gauge ?

Dave

The oil pipe I have was supplied by the customer and is a tad too long (putting it mildly) I reckon 2m should be enough. On the other hand, a bit of slack is handy when pulling the dash out, it's useful to not have to remove a pipe full of oil to change a dash bulb!

Steve

Steve

I take it you mean 2ft and not 2m ?

Dave

[Carledo]

Steve

Have you worked out how long you need for the oil pipe for the gauge ?

Dave

The oil pipe I have was supplied by the customer and is a tad too long (putting it mildly) I reckon 2m should be enough. On the other hand, a bit of slack is handy when pulling the dash out, it's useful to not have to remove a pipe full of oil to change a dash bulb!

Steve

Steve

I take it you mean 2ft and not 2m ?

Dave

If I meant 2ft, i'd have said 2ft! 2m or 6'6" should give you enough. The one i've just fitted is nearer 3m and left a sizable loop in the engine bay! I'd rather have too much than too littleor a tight stretch!

Steve

[SprintV8]

I have a dual Oil Pressure and Oil temperature gauge.
Electrical as I didn’t want a oil pipe in the car.
Positioned where the clock originally went.
Has alarms and warning light that can be set as you require.

https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/p/sp ... -spa-dg201

[tonybsa]

I used a late TR6 oil pressure gauge, which is the same style as the original Dolomite gauges, and I cut a new hole in the dash, under the Fuel gauge. It just fits in, and looks factory.

[David Parnell]

Tonybsa I too, have used a TR6 oil pressure gauge but have dispensed with the voltmeter. Have you a photo please, showing how you managed to fit in the oil gauge under the fuel gauge. Unless I'm mistaken, the spaces between the gauges and the eyeball vent must be next to zero.

[tonybsa]

I will try and post one for you tomorrow. Its tight,but it does fit without moving anything else,I got the idea looking at a Stag dash.

[tonybsa]

I do apoligize for not posting this earlier,I just remembered today,as promised a photo of the locaation of my oil pressure gauge.

[David Parnell]

Thanks Tonybsa, for the photo.

Your are braver than me in drilling the wooden dash. There is little gap between the fuel and oil gauges and also the bottom of the dash.

In my case I'll leave well alone and just dispense with the voltmeter!

[tonybsa]

I actually practiced on a scrap dash first. I used 2 sizes of hole saw and run them slowly. The tricky bit was the counterbore for the gauge bezel. You also have to cut a bit of metal out of the dash surround that sticks up behind the wood, that bit is relatively easy.

[ab1]

I'm not sure if i have just cured a problem or masked a problem with my old smiths gauge?

The needle on my gauge started vibrating like mad when the car was warmed up, it was steady above 2k, but idle and low revs it was vibrating so much it buzzed, the pressure seemed ok.

When i replaced the adaptors and t-piece a while ago i bled the pipe so oil was in the pipe all the way to the gauge, i thought this was the right thing to do? (and it seems ok for a few months)

I tried re-introdcing some air into the pipe by loosening the joint at the gauge and letting the oil run back and now the gauge is behaving normally.

I thought maybe the solid link of oil to the gauge might have stressed the mechanism by passing all the pulsing pressure into the gauge and the air would provide a buffer. Not sure if that's what it is or am i just masking a problem that the gauge was trying to tell me?

Any thoughts welcome please in case i am just hiding an issue with the air buffer in the pipe.

thanks