Been a while !!

[nitram]

I will be as brief as possible! Not had any posts lately, as in Feb 2011 i was made redundant after 10 years service fortunately found another job in 2 wks as a delivery driver for wiltshire farm foods, not as good money, but its a job, so as a result could not afford to run the dolly, so time pasted feeling down i now find myself working on the car more in the wk as i only work 4 days. getting back on my feet now feeling better about myself i still have NBC 780P in my parents garage, so.... in the last 20 months or so, here is a list of jobs i have carried out so far ;
Changed rubber carb mounts to the alloy ones from the club
Fitted electronic ignition
retunned engine (new plugs etc)
serviced carbs
changed coolant (5 year antifreeze)
serviced brakes (rebuilt front calipers,new seals, painted black etc)
bled brakes both ways by the book then by the club way seems fine
now doing the head lights an front indicators (cleaning de rusting etc)

This probably doesnt sound alot but having to juggle family (2 girls, wife, cats, new dog etc ) say no more

List of jobs that i plan to do next ;
put headlamps back
check rear lamps for corrosion
renew subframe mounts( not fancy this one bit, not have a clue ) any tips please.
clean underside then waxoyl.

thats about it ,oh ... and keep saving the pennies i reckon i need about £400-£450 to get her back on ths road, next year me thinks cant wait!

i will try to put pictures up as i know everyone likes

[sprint95m]

renew subframe mounts( not fancy this one bit, not have a clue ) any tips please.

I suggest you buy Superflex bushes because they fit properly.

The subframe is attached to the shell by four 1/2"UNF bolts (3/4"AF socket size) which may be difficult to undo, so you may need
to employ Plus Gas (or similar) and a strong 1/2" drive breaker bar.
The back mounts have cup washers. These are prone to failure so replacing these is a good idea.
It is possible to renew the subframe mounts without removing the subframe, instead support the car securely under the sills and
slacken off the bolts a bit (leaving visible thread).
If you remove a pair of nyloc nuts then you should find it is possible to lower that end of the subframe enough to allow new bushes
to be fitted.
Please renew the nyloc nuts.


Hope this helps,

[nitram]

Thanks for the tip ian, today was my day off, so firstly i put the headlamps back together, all clean etc then checked out the indicator lenses new seals, all fine, then tackled the subframe mounts, well made a start jacked the car right up on the sills supported on axle stands+large chocks of wood, then with the jack, kept the support under the subframe while i undid the 2 nuts at the front they came undun quite easily to my surprise just had to hold the bolt under where the battery sits, these mounts look fine its the rear ones i am concerned about! thats as far as i got really as i hadnt got a deep socket for undoing the rear ones.. cup washers you say? is that where the nut is sitting sunk down inside? also what if the nut just spins on the drivers side next to the steering knuckle how on earth do you get to hold the bolt from the top if you see what i mean Ok the passenger side looks pretty simple because if this decides to spin you can hold the bolt, under where the heater motor is.

Here is a picture of the rear mount

[Dolly-Nut]

It is possible to get a spanner on the bolt head of the rear driver's side. I think I managed it with a normal spanner but you have to get the steering linkage in the right position.

[sprint95m]

the rear ones.. cup washers you say? is that where the nut is sitting sunk down inside? also what if the nut just spins on the drivers side next to the steering knuckle how on earth do you get to hold the bolt from the top if you see what i mean Ok the passenger side looks pretty simple because if this decides to spin you can hold the bolt, under where the heater motor is.

You do need a deep socket for undoing these nuts.
An assistant to hold a suitable tool on the bolt is handy, although the last time I had to do this I managed myself. A socket connected
to a Tommy bar is useful here, I think I used a very short extension too. All 1/2" drive.

These bolts can be very tight. A breaker bar is a good idea.

[Jon Tilson]

I've taken to using the deeper polybush mounting and a flat washer that does away with the cup washer at the back.

Ive lost 2 cup washers in active service now.....they rust out under the nut and WILL drop off and drop the sub frame, which is NOT funny.

Jonners

[nitram]

thanks for your replies, wont be till the w/end before i have another go Just a quick word about that rear mount from the pic and how perished it looks , that has been like that from when i bought the car back in 2006 so should it have passed the m.o.t like it was each year?, its just bugged me in the latter years when it dawned on me how bad it was or am i being to picky, just hope it comes apart ok an that the body is sound where the subframe joins (rust)