1974 Norwegian sprint

[Mad Mart]

Mary was over in Lillestrøm last week for work. £8 for a glass of wine. Luckily it went on her expenses.

[Jon Tilson]

So I'm not going to hijack a resto thread to debate the merits of the SD1, but it was worth a 1 liner to show it was the only half decent
result from all the money wasted that should have been spent on Triumphs....

Tail length is a matter of taste, The longer tail keeps the family look with Innsbrucks and stags...I prefer it. Short tail is 1300 and cheap toledo...
A sprint 2 door should have had a long tail and 4 lights....somebody did one once and it looked great.

Jonners

[Norwegian sprint]

Hello again folks
Getting tired of waiting for the welding man, so better do it myself then...
Got the hook on som old cobra supaslot wheels, i really like the simple "racing" style wheels.
Tonight I repaired right wheel arch, and removed the paint / rust necessary places on the right side of the car. Primed then with acid primer. The next thing to fix is the headlight brackets.
Cheers

Cobra wheels.jpg (70.93 KiB) Viewed 3849 times

Welding rear.jpg (58.27 KiB) Viewed 3849 times

Weld finish.jpg (54.89 KiB) Viewed 3849 times

[straylight]

nice looking aass there

[Norwegian sprint]

Look what i found in my good friends garage.......2 inch carb. It has been on an jaguar of any kind.
I also got one extra inlet manifold for portmatching. What modification is needed on the carbs to make a groupe1 copy?

2 inch carbs.jpg (107.05 KiB) Viewed 3745 times

[soe8m]

Cut off the top of the bowls. If you fit these and slam the bonnet close you will have two little cracks in your paint.

Jeroen

[Norwegian sprint]

Cut off the top of the bowls. If you fit these and slam the bonnet close you will have two little cracks in your paint.

Jeroen

Cut the top of the bowls??? .......How much do i have to cut off, and how?? The pistion lifting pin is at the top
Do you have any pics?
Thanks alot anyway

[mahony]

Nothing wrong with 2 inch su's on a sprint, I had a set on a sprint some years back ( jag ones and not rover ) , no bonnet Clearance issues when I had them ( I only had the car for 2 months thou )

[JPB]

.....How much do i have to cut off, and how?? The piston lifting pin is at the top
...

Cut an equivalent amount from the rod that the damper slides on and remake the groove for the circlip further up the rod, then weld what used to be the top of that thin, chimney-like part into the hole it was cut from and grind the top flush, leaving a tiny step where the damper cap has to sit.

[mahony]

these are off a sprint ( i would not cut anything on your hs8's untill you trial fit them ) http://www.worthpoint.com/worthopedia/t ... -165920795

[Norwegian sprint]

Has unfortunately not been able to work so much on Sprint for a while , have a basement in the house that must be completed.
Worked a few hours in the garage last night . Lowered the motor / gearbox mainly ......
Noticed one thing, in my opinion, the clutch slave cylinder mounted upside down Air Screw down?? Is this correct?

Cheers.....

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engine out.jpg (64.88 KiB) Viewed 3514 times

[Toledo Man]

The bleed nipple should be at the top to allow any air to escape when you bleed the clutch. I'm sure you'll find more things that are wrong before you're done.

[Jon Tilson]

That is sadly the way its meant to be so that you can get access to the bleed screw from underneath.

We have lots of past threads about this, but my wisdom is this....cos you cant bleed it like that with the front of the car higher than the back.

Take the whole assembly off the gearbox and take a hose from the bleed screw back into the reservoir. Arrange a clamp to retain the slave piston somehow. You dont want it pushing right out of the slave. A cable tie will do... Then gently pump the master until the peddle feels like its just moving fluid and all the air bubbles have escaped via the master reservoir. When you feel the air is all gone tighten the bleed screw and you should feel the peddle go solid as the slave piston reaches the clamp.

Then refit to the gearbox and all should be well.

Jonners

[Norwegian sprint]

The bleed nipple should be at the top to allow any air to escape when you bleed the clutch. I'm sure you'll find more things that are wrong before you're done.

I'd be surprised to not find something that doesn`t need repair, is after all a strange old car. Not many Norwegians who recognize this car, people think it's an old BMW, DAF or LADA.

That is sadly the way its meant to be so that you can get access to the bleed screw from underneath.

We have lots of past threads about this, but my wisdom is this....cos you cant bleed it like that with the front of the car higher than the back.

Take the whole assembly off the gearbox and take a hose from the bleed screw back into the reservoir. Arrange a clamp to retain the slave piston somehow. You dont want it pushing right out of the slave. A cable tie will do... Then gently pump the master until the peddle feels like its just moving fluid and all the air bubbles have escaped via the master reservoir. When you feel the air is all gone tighten the bleed screw and you should feel the peddle go solid as the slave piston reaches the clamp.

Then refit to the gearbox and all should be well.

Jonners

Thank you for your feedback. I reckoned that the slave cylinder originally fitted with air screw down, but it seemed a bit odd anyway.
My solution is to jack up the car's rear end, so that the slave cylinder is horizontal. Connect a hose to a bottle of brake fluid, ensure tight connections. Fill the bottle carefully with compressed air to push the brake fluid through the bottom vent screw up the brake fluid container. This is a method I often spent on motorcycle brakes and clutch.

[soe8m]

I'd be surprised to not find something that doesn`t need repair, is after all a strange old car. Not many Norwegians who recognize this car, people think it's an old BMW, DAF or LADA.

And the red ones are alfa's. And my 2500 is also a dolomite in Holland.

Jeroen