Help with sills

[lazeruspete]

Yeah the spit makes it alot easier! If you have a look at my thread you can see how useful it has been. It isn't mine, owned by Alan who I'm paying to do the work.

Yes we made the diaphragm panel ourselves, as well as the wrc style jacking points(the box section and tube) aswell

[Sprintinbits]

Hi, I'm doing a similar thing to mine soon, in fact the removal of one sides cill is complete.

i hope this helps! the pictures dont show it that well but you will need to keep the shelf underneath the doors as the club panels dont come with it.

I can't quite make it out from your pics but...
This shelf, does the club panel cover from above or tuck underneath?
When trial fitting mine, the rear door fouls the club cill when fully opened.
I.e the corner of the door at the hinge end scrubs over the new cill.

So I have some options.
1, Tap the shelf down along its length prior to welding and hope the cill drops with it.
2, Fit from below.
3, Fit above and adjust the door afterwards

Any thoughts?
Cheers
Colin

[lazeruspete]

the way we have done it the outer sill sits on top of the shelf

[xvivalve]

The outer cill should sit on top of the shelf, it is made the right dimension to do so, but you do have to drop the existing shelf by at least the thickness of the new cill material in order to achieve the right lines and no fouling

[lazeruspete]

The outer cill should sit on top of the shelf, it is made the right dimension to do so, but you do have to drop the existing shelf by at least the thickness of the new cill material in order to achieve the right lines and no fouling

what alun said ^^

[Sprintinbits]

The outer cill should sit on top of the shelf, it is made the right dimension to do so, but you do have to drop the existing shelf by at least the thickness of the new cill material in order to achieve the right lines and no fouling

Yep, that's what both Ken and I thought Alun.
We have tapped the aforementioned shelf down, just obviously not enough yet.
Probably the leading edge is OK but not far enough back.
Strugggling to get the joddler in there to help out too.
Hey ho, it's not going to be an issue now we know we were on the right track.
Thanks for your help chaps....
Hope this helps the OP too.

[dolomiteking]

Has anyone had any luck sourcing the full sills, other than at rimmerbros? It's a bit of a patchwork on mine and I would rather replace the whole thing than keep cutting and welding.

thanks

[Carledo]

Has anyone had any luck sourcing the full sills, other than at rimmerbros? It's a bit of a patchwork on mine and I would rather replace the whole thing than keep cutting and welding.

thanks

NOS Factory full sills turn up from time to time. Usually at about £100 apiece, depending on the greed of the seller! Pretty sure the RB sill is similar to the club one but not such good quality. If you are doing a concours Sprint, I can see a case for factory sills. But they are a total mare to fit, involving cutting behind all 3 pillars which at some point will leave the "B" post hanging in mid air! There are other inherent problems with the process as well, which make the job one which is definitely NOT for the faint hearted!

The club sills are actually a very good fit and being "ZINTEC" are more corrosion resistant than other offerings. But like all non-standard parts, a little fettling is required!

Steve

[dolomiteking]

I am going to go with the club ones. I have sent off my application form and am awaiting my number so that I can get ordering! Thanks for the help guys.