MSO 662P

[soe8m]

Cheapish kit........

Not normal.

The trackrod rubber looks ok and i have these also this way. On a t2000/2500 they are the other way round. These have the trackrods being pushed instead of being pulled like a dolomite and the shape of the bracket where they go in at a t2500 is also different.

Jeroen

[Tony Burd]

I didn't think it looked right, I have ordered some Superflex bushes from Chris Witor, hopefully they will be a better fit.

Went to the paint shop today, they are running a bit behind as they have a lot on. I don't mind it gives me more time to finish the mechanical bits while the shell is out of the way, plus more time to decide on a colour.

[Tony Burd]

Had a look at the engine tonight.

I had it running before I removed it & it had really good oil pressure & good even compression so I am not going to strip it completely, just rebuild the waterpump check the tensioner etc.

I took the cam cover off & all looks OK, cam is a ST 91




Then I took the sump off to check there were no nasties in the sump, got a bit of a surprise a block brace, looks homemade but pretty substantial.

[soe8m]

If it is the brace with the long threaded studs and 200 nuts i suggest remove and fit some decent main cap bolts.

Jeroen

[Tony Burd]

What are 200 nuts?

[soe8m]

A lot of nuts

There are some thin (about 5-7mm) braces which do not work. Instead of a main bearing cap bolt there's a long stud with a nut, then another nut, then the brace and then another nut. So about 30 nuts. Driving me nuts.....

These braces will flex and do not support anything. For show use only. And the used threaded studs with nuts to tighten the mainbearingcaps are of unknow material and can stretch. So it's better to use std main cap bolts or even better a ARP main stud kit.

Jeroen

[Tony Burd]

Will have a look tomorrow & take a picture, but it looked to me that it was 1 long nut, definately not lots of nuts.

I think the guy who built the engine in the 80's was quite a good engineer, so I don't think it has been thrown together,

The brace plate looks pretty thick about 10-12mm will measure it tomorrow.

Thanks for the interest Jeroen, bear in mind this engine was built in the 80's & things have moved on quite a bit especially with guys like you with advanced engineering skills.

Cheers

Tony

[Mad Mart]

On the oil pick-up I'm assuming you would need a second gasket between the block and brace?

[Tony Burd]

Yeah there must be a gasket under the brace. I was also thinking about the dip stick, I am not sure if it has been adjusted as with the brace the sump sits about 10-12mm lower, but the oil pick up is in the same relative position to the bottom of the sump.

So if the dipstick has not been adjusted will I be overfilling the engine with oil if I fill to the top mark?

[soe8m]

No, you only have more oil under the level mark of the dipstick. You did enlarge the sump a bit by adding a brace. The level should stay the same so just a little more oil to have it at level.

Jeroen

[Mad Mart]

Thinking about it some more. The regular gasket on the oil pick-up is a lot thinner than the sump gasket. Usually this doesn't matter but with the brace the gaskets need to be the same thickness so you may require 2 or 3 under the brace.

[Tony Burd]

The brace is 12mm thick, looks to have been fitted very well. I am going to leave it as it is.

[Jon Tilson]

When timing and shimming an STR91 remember its 106 ATDC inlet peak and 8 thou inlet and 9 exhaust.

Needles are also an issue....most 91's are on sidedraughts but I'll look at my needles if you want to know. I cant remember....

Looks like an interesting engine.

Jonners

[Tony Burd]

Thanks for that, it is running twin 48 dellortos.

I had the engine running before I removed it and it all sounded good, so I am not touching the head as the previous owner told me it had been skimmed & all the clearances done, plus if it's not broke why fix it. I will torque the head, whats the recommendation these days, i always used to follow the guide in the front of the Sprintspares parts catalogue

I am rebuilding the water pump & giving it a good clean up, I didn't find anything to worry about in the sump, I will also take the front timing cover off to check the tensioner & guides.

Cheers

Tony

[Mad Mart]

58-60 lb ft is about the norm.. Start with the centre nut & work out each way. Then do the same with the bolts. Torque up in stages,