Oh no, not FRENCH!!!!

[Jod Clark]

You don't see many now. They certainly have good mechanical reliability though I think the actual quality of components and fit in many areas leaves a lot to be desired i.e. typical French fragility when it comes to interiors and electrical components.

Always quite liked the 406 too which came afterwards, very comfy and refined. The XUD in that though is a bit of a struggle though, pretty low down on power for such a big and heavy car.

Sure the XUD is not the quickest thing on Gods earth, but it signifacantly lacks the fragility of more modern (and powerful) diesels.
My van has done 168k and was let down by bad maintainance not bad design. Several on my books have exceeded 300k and one or two have managed over 400k and still going strong.
And yes I do agree with you, French electrics..... Sacre bleu, c'est merde!

Steve

If I believed everything about modern diesels then my own car must be on it's last legs at 30k. Everyone seems concerned about them yet I have come across countless examples which rack up huge mileage without fault.

Of course, this is true. I suspect that those of us who work on cars only really get to see the bad side of things.

In some ways, the Peugeot XUD(T), Rover L-series, Ford TDDi etc may well be indirectly responsible for some modern common-rail diesels problems. You see, in days gone by a turbo diesel was a pretty lazy old thing, 1.8 / 1.9 turbo diesels were generally pumping-out around 90bhp and would happily continue to do so with very little maintenance. These days a Vauxhall (pronounced Fiat) CDTi 1.9 is pushing 170BHP and is not the same thing at all. Longer service intervals specified by the manufacturers also don't help. Much the same as how the K-series replaced the (generally) bomb-proof A-series and O-series lumps in Rovers - the old engines would soak-up a massive amount of neglect and still get you to work in the morning but the K-series would not, and developed a reputation for fragility as a result. There are parallels with many other manufacturer's engines too of course, but the modern common-rail diesel tends to be very expensive when / if it does go pop....

[Spunkymonkey]

Much the same as how the K-series replaced the (generally) bomb-proof A-series and O-series lumps in Rovers - the old engines would soak-up a massive amount of neglect and still get you to work in the morning but the K-series would not, and developed a reputation for fragility as a result. There are parallels with many other manufacturer's engines too of course, but the modern common-rail diesel tends to be very expensive when / if it does go pop....

A certain slant 4 springs to mind For all the banter, as far as I can see the only thing really wrong with it at the time was that people weren't used to ideas like "must have antifreeze all the time" and "overheating is more than an inconvenience"

Meanwhile, picked up the belts for George yesterday and stripped him down this evening to change them. Can't quite get my head round how bad access is on these after being spoilt with Sheila and the Dafs for the past few years! The old aux belt was definitely past it's use-by date, although the old cambelt looked fine, and the tensioners are all good. Guessing that they possibly didn't bother with the aux on the last change.

Everything was going swimmingly (apart from access) until I happened to squeeze one of the water pipes, and discovered where the leak is - the water pump Being a tight arrse, of course, I'd got the belts rather than the full kit so that stopped play for today. The plus side is that I spotted it before reassembling it of course! The odd thing is that there was no obvious sign of water under the covers when they came off, just a torrent when I squeezed the pipe!

Hoping that our local factors keeps them in stock, in which case should get him finished tomorrow evening. If not he'll be sitting idle till next week.

[Spunkymonkey]

All back together, not leaking, didnt explode on start-up, and (all being well) good until 2018 or so

[Spunkymonkey]

Ok, just for the record, 50/50 veg oil mix seemsw to give problems when it drops to 10 degrees overnight.

Off to work at about 6:30 this morning, got about 150 yards and he cut out, wouldn't restart. Tried the priming pump in case the fuel gauge was lying and , sure enough, fuel wasn't being lifted. So managed to prime hom and he started again. Got a mile down the road, cut out again. Primed again and he started.

No problems after that as he warmed up but gave him a good drink of real diesel on the way home to dilute what's in the tank

[yellowmitch]

Modern diesels are indeed all crap. It's not so much the engine, but all the rubbish the european 'green' dudes nail on like the cats and the DPF's and next year the NOX trap.

Also DMF's are a bad thing too, and as Jod says, the price of a common rail pump is eye-watteringly expensive WHEN (not if) it goes wrong.

Whilst the XUD(T) is AWESOME, i prefer direct injection like that on the L series, TDDI, 200/300Tdi etc. These engines really have it all.

On another note, what's the thoughts on the ford puma 2.0TDDI engine? in the early Mk3 door ruster, sorry mondeo

We all know that in TDCi Guise it is the 2nd worse engine ever created (renault got the top spot with anything called dCi) but what's the DI version like?

[Spunkymonkey]

Had a look at the gearbox this afternoon.

The end cover and 5th gear cluster are definitely accessible with the box in the car but, having got the cover off, I was stuck thanks to a stupid oversight. The 28mm nuts that hold the gears on are bi-hex heads, not normal hex head, and the only 28mm socket I have is single hex. So, having got it apart, I had to put it all back together again until I can pick up a suitable socket!

On the plus side, the old oil that I drained was nice and clean, with no sign of metal in it. In fact, it was so clean that I almost decided to re-use it and save the new stuff I'd bought until can swap the gears. But it was easier to refill with the new stuff (the bottles have built-in spouts) so used that in the end.

Having been in there now, it appears that you don't need to drain the box completely anyway - dropping about half the oil should get the 5th gear end dry enough to open up.

[Jod Clark]

Modern diesels are indeed all crap. It's not so much the engine, but all the rubbish the european 'green' dudes nail on like the cats and the DPF's and next year the NOX trap.

Also DMF's are a bad thing too, and as Jod says, the price of a common rail pump is eye-watteringly expensive WHEN (not if) it goes wrong.

Whilst the XUD(T) is AWESOME, i prefer direct injection like that on the L series, TDDI, 200/300Tdi etc. These engines really have it all.

On another note, what's the thoughts on the ford puma 2.0TDDI engine? in the early Mk3 door ruster, sorry mondeo

We all know that in TDCi Guise it is the 2nd worse engine ever created (renault got the top spot with anything called dCi) but what's the DI version like?

I look after a Y-plater Mondeo TDDi with this lump in, and have done for several years. It has almost all of the smoothness that the same engine in TDCi form has but with a slightly harsher edge, which changes 'note' as you give it the berries, thereby making it an audible fuel economy warning. It has just has its original clutch replaced at 125k miles - due to slave cylinder failure - DMF was perfect as well, which was a relief. I think the clutch lasts so incredibly well because it is the same unit as fitted to the TDCi and the TDDi has between 10% and 20% less power. Other than that, it has been the usual things you would expect to start playing-up at 10+ years and half-moon distance...an alternator, aux belts and bottom pulley and that's about it. It still starts on the button and goes like a stabbed rat.

Similarly, I have just told another chap with a 2002 135K TDCi Mondeo that its reluctance to start (35 seconds cranking) is the end for his car, it would cost more to fix than it would be worth - so he's going to see how far it will go before it gives up altogether.

Two cars that use the same engine, just differing in the injection system. I know which one I would have.

[covcourier]

I must just be lucky with mine then.

We have just sold a 54 reg TDCI last week that we've had for over 3 years. 165k when bought and sold with 228k on. Having known the car from new, it has never had any injector or pump issues, still pulled and drove really well but was going to need the original clutch replacing soon although it had been noisy for the whole time we had it. Guy bought it to replace his 300k + ex taxi.

I've just bought an 09 new model Mondeo TDCI with 140k on and passed my 55 reg 188k one onto my lad to replace the above.

Of the 9 mk3 TDCI's we've had, none had less than 150k when bought and between them all I have only ever replaced one set of injectors, one clutch/DMF and 2 turbos.

[stokieat75]

I had a ZX TD Volcane that was powered by the good old XUD engine and it went like stink and pretty rare now too, had a Pug 309 diesel turbo but no intercooler previous to that both good cars, did over 135000 in the ZX which I had for 7 years, the 309 for 5 years no probs with the electrics although I did overhaul the rear axle as they are prone to axle bearing wear which can write off an otherwise good car, same problem can affect the 306, and 106 as well, sold the Zx last year after my dad gave his 04 plate 2.0 dti Zafira what a mistake!

[Spunkymonkey]

He now has a 5th gear:) For those who like photos of oily bits, this is how easy it was to cure. Can't quite believe that changing a gear hub was easier than doing the cam belt on this thing

The photos are a mix of the fitted and "spare" gearboxes - basically, you have to do the same on each as far as getting the replacement hub out is concerned - whether or not you also reassemble the spare box is, obviously your choice. I chose not to for now!

Before startng to dismantle things, you need to drain some of the oil from the box. I took out about a litre, which was plenty to keep the "working" area dry, but you may want to take the opportunity to change the oil while you're at it. If you do you'll need 2 litres of 75w/80 EP oil for refilling:



Replace the drain plug before you forget!

Raise the front n/s corner on an axle stand and remove the wheel and the front part of the plastic wheel arch liner. This gives access to the end of the gearbox. Remove the cover by undoing (7x) 11mm bolts and (1x) 19mm filler plug:



The cover has no gasket and is sealed using PU sealant. You may find that it's stuck in place, in which case tapping the edge of it from "behind" (ie: under the engine towards the outside) with a screwdriver and hammer will free it, giving access to 5th gear:



Apologies at this point for the quality of some of the photos - I was using my camera phone and it was very hard to keep oil off the lens as I worked!

You now remove the circlip that holds the selector fork on the detent rod. It's a light clip and can be removed simpply by pusing its end with a screwdriver while using another screwdriver at the other end to stop it spinning:



Also use a suitable punch to remove the detent spring roll-pin. Tap it out towards the back, being careful as you do that you don't lose the spring or the detent ball (see later photo). Put the spring and ball safely to one side:



Now remove the selector shaft roll pin. this is a little awkward with the box in the car, but you can get to its lower end with a bit of fiddling, then tap it out towards the top:


Fifth gear is now disconnected from the selector mechanism. Select 1st gear using the gear lever, then push the 5th gear selectro fork towards the box. This has the effect of engaging 1st and 5th gears at the same time, which locks the box ready for the next step:




Using a 28mm bi-hex (12 pointed) socket and long bar, undo the gear retaining nut. This isn't tight, but it's staked in position after fitting (see later). The long bar should relieve the staking without any problem:



You can now simply pull the 5th gear, hub, syncro unit and selector fork off the end of the box:



This is a (very poor quality) close-up of the inner teeth on the synchro hub. If you look closely you van see that the corners are badly worn - that wear is what forces it out of gear under power:



Here is a (better) photo of the replacement. Notice that the teeth are much better defined and "sharper" at their ends - and that's not just because of the photo!




Reassembly with the replacement hub is essentially the reverse of the above, but with a few points to note.

"Start" the roll pins with the selector out of the box. This is much easier than trying to do it in place. Tap them in so they hold their place but haven't reached the bore, so they won't prevent the fork from going on. This photo also shows the detent ball and spring that was removed earlier:



Fit the hub and selector fork and push them towards the gearbox to lock it in two gears again. Fit the nut and do it up just until it becomes "firm" and doesn't want to tighten any more. I don't have a torque setting available, but it's NOT tight! Stake the edge of the nut firmly into BOTH slots on the shaft (the one shown and one opposite):



Put the car out of gear using the gear lever and move the 5th gear selector fork so that yo can tap the roll pin home. Now fit the detent ball and spring upwards into their bore in the fork. You'll need a rod of suitable size to push on the end of the spring so that you can tap the roll pin in to hold it in place. Once the pin is in far enough to stop the spring dropping out, use a thin screwdriver to press the other edge of the spring up so that the pin can be tapped fully home. Refit the circlip to the end of the detent rod.

Check using the gear lever that all gears can be selected ok, then refit the cover. Before fitting, run a bead of sealant around the cover and spread it to cover the flange:




Hold the cover in place and fit the FILLER PLUG first (but don't tighten it). If you bolt the cover up before fitting the filler there's a good chance that the filler won't want to go in.

Fit the bolts and tighten down evenly using a "diagonal" pattern. Remove the filler plug, top up the oil that you removed as per normal gearbox filling instructions, and refit the plug.

Refit wheel arch liner and wheel, and enjoy an extra gear!


Total time was about 40 minutes, which is an awful lot better than a gearbox change!!!

[Spunkymonkey]

The trip south has been delayed for a few days, but we've already closed up the business for the next two weeks ready for it, so I had time to keep the roll going on George today

First up was the interior fan control, that had been bypassed with a relay giving hurricane or nothing. Having extracted the control unit last week and confirmed that one of the power transistors had failed, it was time to get busy with the soldering iron and two new MJ1105 transistors. These are uprated compared to the originals, so should be good for the life of the car.

Replacement is simple enough except for the small detail that they riveted the originals in (presumably to save 4 nuts & bolts). Once the rivets are drilled out, you just have to unsolder the two connection pins on each of the old ones, drop the new ones into place, fix them with 4mm nuts and bolts, and re-solder 4 connections.

That's assuming, of couse, that the previous owner hasn't cut all the connectors off to wire it into a relay. If that's happened then you take 4 times as long as the repair working out which of the random wires go where

Once that was successfully completed, there was just time bfore the rain set in to tackle a small fuel leak from the filter housing. I noticed a couple of days ago that, what I thought was filter plugging from the veg oil, was actually that the housing was emptying itself overnight because of a slow drip from the inlet valve at the bottom.

This is held in place by a star clip which is hammered into place and not designed to be removed. You can remove them if you're careful by working your way round and easing each of the tangs out a little at a time until it comes free.

The valve then pulls out easily to reveal an O ring seal that was more like bakelite than rubber - it was seriously rock hard! As I'd planned on doing this today, I'd picked up an O ring selection this morning which I managed to match the original from well enough. I had to fit 2, one on top of the other, to get a seal but it has sealed so that should be improved starting and a saving of about 1/4 litre of fuel every night - that's seriously not to be sneezed at!

[stranter]

I own a Focus TDDi and it is without doubt the worst car I have ever had the misfortune to own. It's a 52 plate with 110k. In the 18k I've owned it I've replaced:

Reversing light switch
Blower resistor pack
Most of the bulbs
2 clutches (a failed main seal saw to the first one)
Idler arm
Track rod end
Wiper relay

It's got rusty arches, rusty door bottoms, a broken driver's electric window, a dash bulb out and it only does 45mpg. Absolute heap, I hate it! I had a Sierra with the same engine and that was a much better car. I'm sure the engine will last forever, but the rest of the car is junk.

[Spunkymonkey]

Well, we've now got a better idea of fuel consumption:

160 miles of local + down through the mountains (variable speed hilly A road): 47.7mpg
260 miles of motorway at +/- the speed limit : 47.7mpg
245 miles of Devon lanes + a 25 mile funeral procession (rarely out of 3rd gear): 42.7mpg
350 miles of return motorway and mountains with very variable traffic: 48.7mpg

Clearly, the car has something about point sevens!

[SprintMWU773V]

I own a Focus TDDi and it is without doubt the worst car I have ever had the misfortune to own. It's a 52 plate with 110k. In the 18k I've owned it I've replaced:

Reversing light switch
Blower resistor pack
Most of the bulbs
2 clutches (a failed main seal saw to the first one)
Idler arm
Track rod end
Wiper relay

It's got rusty arches, rusty door bottoms, a broken driver's electric window, a dash bulb out and it only does 45mpg. Absolute heap, I hate it! I had a Sierra with the same engine and that was a much better car. I'm sure the engine will last forever, but the rest of the car is junk.

To be fair to Ford they cannot really be held responsible for bulbs blowing or a track rod end. On my Focus I also had the wiper park relay go and the blower resistor pack. You do see an increasing number of scabby ones too, arches especially and door bottoms which are either caused by a faulty batch of sealer or they've been skinned before. Mine was a similar age and the only scabby door was the one that had been repaired, ditto the wheel arch.

I like the Focus but I'm not a huge fan of the diesel ones.

[stranter]

On the bulbs thing, it's not so much them going but the utterly ridiculous palava to Chang them. One of the headlights even necessitated taking the headlight unit out or the air intake and battery.

Also, now the air con is intermittent ly brokenn along with the broken drivers side window makes it stupidly hot.

I really like the way the Focus drives, but something is always broken and compared to other cars in its class, it has a pokey boot and no legroom.

I'd never buy another Focus and I'd be wary of buying a car with a late TDDi engine too.