Indicator problem

[RobSun]

Hi

Fairly new member having problems with the indicators on my 1300 Dolly that I Hope someone can help me with.

They dont flash but just stay on when the engine is off but are ok when the engine is running. However when the sidelights are on they slow down or stop, and stop if the headlights are swithed on. I suspected an earth problem, or possibly the alternator on the way out (new battery fitted yesterday) or the flasher unit. The hazard flashers work ok even with the headlights on and at a faster speed than the indicators which leads me to think its not the earth as I would expect it to be common to both circuits or manky bulb holders etc.

If it is the flasher unit where is it and how do you get to it?

Thanks

Bob

[mikew]

If its like the Sprint, its behind the dash panel with the instruments - top right ish.

I wouldn't replace with another bimetalic type they are made of cheese now and soon fail. Get a modern three pin electronic type - it just needs a ground wire adding to the existing wiring, and it will flash at a constant rate what ever the state of the battery volts (within reason)

Your local motor factors will stock these for about £5. the pins are labelled, pin 31 is ground - earth, 49 (39?) is supply, 49a (39a?) goes to the indicator switch. you can sort pins 49 and 49a by trial and error (it won't hurt the unit), the existing wires will work in one combination, but not the other. Just make sure 31 goes to ground

[Toledo Man]

Bob, do you need the parts catalogue? I can also pay you a visit if you need an extra pair of hands (2 heads are better than one).

Are you up for NDD?

[RobSun]

Hi Dave

Thanks for the offer.

The club are listing an uprated unit in dollymixtures but first was going to clean up the bulbs and holders just in case. I've just done the number plate lights they were a bit iffy and one was gunged up and Ive got a headlight off on main beam too.

I would certainly appreciate some help especially if the fascia has to come off and I would like to eliminate the alternator also. I know your busy with brown at present so if it helps I've applied for its tax and mot runs till April so I could bring it over to you.

Doesn't look like I will be going to Weatherby now this weekend so I will do the bulbs this week and then pm you with results and to sort out a day and time.

Thanks Dave

Bob

[Toledo Man]

Yeah, no problem. My contact details are in DM.

[MIG Wielder]

I think I'd be digging out the dvm and checking a few voltages first.
Hazard flashers run off the always live side of the fuse box, wheras indicators run off the fused IGN ON circuit. And the 2 flasher units are different.
Try this....
https://www.dollywiki.co.uk/wiki/Diagno ... r_Problems

Tony.

[xvivalve]

Bad earth; try the bullet connectors on the back plate of the front sidelight/indicator units...

[Jon Tilson]

Welcome to the dolomite rubbish flasher club....

We've all been members and many of us still are...

The old style bimetallic flasher unit is very prone to slowing down or stopping when the voltage drops -as when lights are on.

Add this to a couple of dodgy earth connections as Alun describes and you will be in the club....

Jonners

[RobSun]

Thanks everybdy for helping with this.

So far Ive cleaned the bulb holders and contacts on the rear lights etc and at the same time the number plate and reversing lights as they were a bit tempermental as well. This improved things quite a bit then I did the same with the front. Also did the headlamp which turned out to be a bullet conector in the engine bay.

The flashers now work with ign on engine off and same with sidelights on. With engine running I get them running ok with headlights on but slow down to almost a stop with main beam. Main beam also puts on spots.

I didnt look for any connections behind the front sidelights as I didnt get that info till after I had the covers off so I intend to go back to do that. I havn't got anything to test the voltage with as my tester went for a walk one dark night so keeping fingers crossed this works. MOT is due very soon.

If they are still slow after cleaning the connectors is a modern electronic one the answer and does anyone know if the uprated one on the club spares list is an electronic one or if not would that one sort it.

I want to get a grease nipples to do the ball joints and propshaft bearing, which I have been told has a blank nut on it, can anybody please help with what sizes I need?

The cars a very late manf 82 registered 1300.

Thanks

Bob

I will let you know how it goes.

[Edin Dundee]

Bob, good work so far.
If your main beam ALSO switches in a pair of spotlights, there won't be a lot left lying around for your poor wee indicators!
Assuming a perfect circuit, if your main beams are 55W and your spots are 75W, and a feed of 12v from your alternator, that's 21 amps for the front lights alone, never mind the indicators and rear lights and instruments. The old style bimetallic strip flasher unit needs the full current through the indicator lamps for it to work properly (the current through the strip heats the strip up and opens the contact, just like in first year physics at school).
Now in theory the indicators will take whatever current they need, but a car system is limited - the alternator can only kick out so many amps, and the more power hungry circuits will always grab the lions share.
As an aside, are your lights on relays?

[Toledo Man]

Bill, as far as I'm aware, this car is like it was when it rolled off the production line at Canley so no relays for the lights.

[RobSun]

The spot lights were fitted sometime after 2008 when it was used for shows and rallies but were not wired up. When it stopped winning shows it was sold to the last owner who had them connected up but they are wired up using a seperate relay.

I didn't notice this problem before it was put away for the winter.

[RobSun]

Hi every one

Well, started out yesterday with indicators working ok with side lights on but a bit slower with headlights on dip but just working with main beam. With the engine running just a bit slow on main beam with left hand a little slower.

Took off left hand front side light unit but there were no connectors behind it so gave it a quick spray of wd40 and put it back on. Then followed the wiring and found a set of connectors under the front panel at the bottom of the engine bay. These corresponded to the same ones on the other side that sorted out the right side headlamp. They were pretty well covered in crap so sprayed with wd40 and cleaned them up and then tried to seperate them. There are three bullet connectors and one snap plug conector with three wires going in that I suspect are from the side lights with the bullets for the head light. Couldnt shift them but eventually managed to seperate the black wired bullet and it looked very clean inside but the plug type would not sepperate. Checked headlights ok checked indicators not working at all on both sides?? Will only work with engine running and no lights at all and stop when breaklights on.

Why have both sides stopped? Surely the left and right side have seperate earths. Took the car to Tescos and and everything else is running and working ok.

A chap that I know who restores and deals classic motorbikes and is an ex 1500 FWD and Dolomite owner popped by just after I got back and he's suggesting that it must be a common earth that is causing the problem and has made some suggestions to run a temp earth from the body to the battery to see what happens and is going to bring me some stainless nuts and bolts to change some of the main earths.

If this doesn't sort it I will take up your offer Dave for two heads but may need you to come to me.

Anybody got any other suggestions cause Ive run out.

Who said get an escort !!!

Bob

[RobSun]

Now back working. Cleaned up the earth close to the battery. That got the right side working but only with the engine running and slow on main beam but left side not working at all. Looked again at the back of the lh sidelight and realised what xvivalve meant and found the earth. Took a bit of getting off cleaned it up and still didn't work, so did it again and this time it worked and both sides are the same.

Not going to do any more, went to a local restorer to get some fuel line to replace a section and talked about mot. He told me about the place he uses who is friendly to old cars and knows what's what and all MGBS have this prob and if they work with engine running he passes. He also thinks that because things get better after a couple of miles or a few revs the alternator isn't fully charging so will get that tested. So early next week will put it in for testing.