Resto started after 21 years in the lockup

[davy67]

SHIMS! Thats the word I was trying to remember. Thanks for that Toledo Man
I was rummaging through bits in my lockup the other day and found the old ball joints, SHIMS and associated parts all separated and labelled into nearside and offside. Glad I had the sense to identify everything. Old age is creeping up on me these days so it makes things SO much easier now when it comes to the reassembly. Yes it felt good to be bolting the shiny powdercoated subframe back on with new bushes and bolts. An incentive to get stuck in!!

[Mad Mart]

There should be the same amount of shims on both sides, usually two.

[davy67]

?? Ok I'll have another look in case I've missed one. If I cant find it I'm sure I can make a new one of equal dimensions.

Cheers Guys.

[Toledo Man]

If it helps, the part number for the shim is 145083.

Martin, you are right. My post-76 parts catalogue specifies 4 shims (2 per side) that go between the mounting bracket and the subframe.

Are we going to see any photos? Believe me, it is very ease once you know what you're doing. If you can use this forum, you can get photos onto this thread.

[davy67]

I dont have a computer at home. We have a laptop which i have older photos of the Sprint on but as yet I have not got round to getting internet but we are definitely planning on it. I've also got photos on my phone so I guess I can try to sort pictures via that? My Ford pal will show me how to post stuff and set up a photobucket account( in exchange for welding his car!).

David

[davy67]

Regarding the front suspension shims, I do indeed have two on either side but where I was confused about having an odd number on one side is because in addition to the four factory fitted shims I seem to have an extra one on the O/S (making 3 in total) which is approximately equal in thickness to two of the original shims.
On closer inspection the thicker shim appears to be a home-made job. The dilema I now find myself with is ; why has someone went to the trouble of making and fitting this extra thick shim? And should I refit it?
Taking on board what Martin said about two shims originally being fitted at the factory I'm inclined to rebuild it as per original spec.

Would this be the right thing to do??
Also, my nylon washers arrived from Rimmers today so looks like I'll have several things to keep me busy when I finish my shift in the morning

[davy67]

My spare time this last week didnt exactly turn out to be all mine! Got sidelined by other commitments.
Front suspension was assembled and rebuilt, ready to be bolted onto the car when i noticed a component on either side that was not cleaned to my standard so I dissassembled the lot to tidy up things then rebuilt it all for a 2nd time (nothing had been torqued up by this time )and fitted it onto the subframe. This week I will finish that off and (try) refit the front anti roll bar, which I'm expecting to put up a fight!
Any handy hints on how to make this process any easier would be appreciated. Once the ARB is refitted I can fit the steering rack then move to the rear and refit the axle/trailing arms etc.
My plan to be out of the unit by the end of June is looking unlikely. Although when i finish my shift in the morning I am off on annual leave til end of June and would love to spend the whole time with the Sprint the Mrs wont let that happen But rest assured this time next week the old girl will be back on her yokohamas! ( thats the car, not the girlfriend!)

David

[Toledo Man]

Did you rebush the suspension? I used a mixture of Super Flex and rubber when I rebuilt my front suspension. I made the mistake of using black Hammerite smooth and it looks terrible now. I might even get it all repainted at some point.

[geeksteve]

I made the mistake of using black Hammerite smooth and it looks terrible now. I might even get it all repainted at some point.

+1, would have looked better if I'd wrapped it in a bin bag!

S

[davy67]

Yes its been completely rebushed both front and rear with new nuts,bolts and washers all round. Every metal component of the suspension, except the axle has been shotblasted and powder coated black. It does look nice. It would have worked out just as much to buy enough paint I think. I have been taking photos so hopefully I'll get some posted soon.

[Jon Tilson]

To refit the front arb....

Do it last when the car is sittiing on its wheels or arrange the jacks so the lower wishbone is taking most of the weight like it was standing on its wheels IYSWIM...

Then connect the arb to each front drag strut....loosely so the bolt is in the tube and will pick up on the nyloc nut
underneath. Do it up a few turns so its loose but cant come out.

Then push the bar up and wiggle the bolts through from the subframe side. You can use a screwdiver or slave bolt from outside to line the holes up. Tighten the bolts when you have all four in place and then the links. Again wait til its all
on the wheels before the final tighten. With practice its a 20 minute job. With no practice its a nightmare....usually cos only 1 side is disconnected and the bar is twisted all out of sorts by sitting unevenly.

Jonners

[davy67]

Cheers for that Jonners. I was expecting it to be a nightmare bcos I remember doing it to my pals RS2000 some years ago. Thought about using small cargo straps to help pull the bar into position while its under tension. Didn't get up to the sprint today because I was volunteered by my girlfriend to do dig at her mums house!!
Doesn't she realise I'm on holiday now?
Will let you know how it goes.....

[davy67]

That should read DIY at her mums house!

[DoloWIGHTY]

I think matt of the vivas came up with an excellent solution to getting the arb refitted:

This was how i did it on mine, when i changed all the bushes.
Bolt Antiroll bar to subframe first on one side only. Then remove the bolt that holds the drag link to the lower arm on that side, loosen the large nut that holds the drag strut to the subframe and you will be able to fit the anti roll bar link to the drag strut easily on that side. Refit the drag strut to the lower arm on that side - should still be easy as there is not much tension yet.
Next refit the anti roll bar clamp to the subframe on the other side and repeat the process of removing the lower arm to drag strut bolt and loosening the large nut, so the drag stut can be connected to the anti roll bar link with ease. Now the difficult part - pulling the drag stut with anti roll bar link attached back into the correct place so it can be bolted back to the lower arm. This is the solution:



This is an ordinary spring compressor, hooked round the subframe and anti roll bar link. It can be tensioned perfectly so it pulls the drag strut into just the right position to simply drop the bolt into the lower arm. This all sounds a faff, but honestly its easy, and does not involve straining or levering. Once i had figured it out, it took me about ten minutes to refit the anti roll bar, which up until that point had defeated me for most of a morning...
Good luck
Matt.

[davy67]

Thanks for that input also Alan. That might be worth a try since my struts and wheels are in a different garage. I don't have a spring compressor but maybe my ratchet idea could work in place? Using a spring compressor might damage my powder coated subframe? Food for thought. I appreciate the suggestions cos otherwise I would use brute strength and ignorance!