reliability upgrades for daily driver

[errigal]

OK I am about to bite the bullet and buy a dolly sprint. I am looking at one which was resprayed and then sat in a barn unfinished. I will have to spend a bit of time to get it running. This could be a good chance to do any upgrades that would be advisable. Brakes clutch etc will all have to be redone so maybe there are a few upgrades there? Are there any weak points on a dolly that can be cured while I have the chance?

I will be using this every day to do a small 8 mile trip to and from work so although it's really a second car it will be used daily and I need to be relatively reliable.

Can I ask the learned masses what upgrades they would advice?

I don't need a fire breathing dragon but would also consider any performance upgrades as well as long as they don't double the value of the car

The engine turns freely but I have not heard it running so will get a compression test done asap.

Thanks in advance

[Carledo]

Electronic ignition is IMHO, a must for a daily driver, a Trackerjack big brake conversion is a good idea on a Sprint, as is an electric cooling fan. Be sure to get some decent rubber on it and you're good to go!

Steve

[2dollys]

Magenta Sprint in Cork.?

[errigal]

2dollys it's up the north. Went to see it this last weekend. It's had a poor paint job but maybe a day of colour sanding I might be able to live with it.

Clutch pedal and brake pedal are solid so it'd be a rip out and start again job

Steve I've been having a look at the megajolting a sprint thread and it looks not too bad E IGN solution. Maybe just throw in luminition initially till we see if it runs ok.

[gmsclassics]

A number of these have been mentioned above, but following has been done to my blue car:
1. Good tyres, but stick to standard size
2. Magnetronic ignition
3. Electric cooling fan with a good in-line controller. Relay power from battery so it continues to run after ignition is off until engine is cooled.
4. Braided brake hoses (you'll need to replace current hoses anyway)
5. Either Trackerjack brakes or good branded pads. You might even consider a tandem conversion if it is an earlier car.
6. Relays for all headlamps
7. Halogen based replacement main beam inner headlamps, then you should be able to see where you are going on a winter evening.
8. Concave glass for wing mirrors
9. Air horns

Other options that just make it more usable are:
1. Remote cental locking and alarm - time consumming an fiddly to fit, but so improves the car if using a lot.
2. Bluetooth stereo so you can listen to your own decent music and legally answer the phone!

I've also got LED daytime running lights on the Mimosa car, not the most original look but it does make other drivers think twice before pulling out in front of 'this old car that must be going slowly', because it isn't and neither I suspect will you!

The one thing I haven't solved yet is how not to have to top up the SU dashpots on a regular basis (other than fit Dellortos or Webers).

Geoff

[cliftyhanger]

Get the car running in standard form, using the best components you can find.
One of my (and many others) gripes is there are so many cheap, but hopeless parts out there.

eg flexible steering coupling, new ones are very short lived so fit a solid UJ version. Track rod end (and balljoint boots) disintegrate before your eyes, brake pads that are hopeless and so on. The club sells some parts, and ask on here for good suppliers. Cost is usually a little higher, but then again you do not want your car to be a sum of the lowest priced parts......

Often you are better off using a good secondhand part than reproduction new. Sad but true.

However, the one modification I think may be worthwhile is the trackerjack brakes. Bearing in mind the high cost of standard discs the conversion looks even more appealing.

The cars are easy to live with as an everyday motor, my Toledo was my daily driver for a good few years, and once the stalled engine conversion gets completed (must extract my finger on that one) it will be again.

[sprint95m]

A number of these have been mentioned above, but following has been done to my blue car:
1. Good tyres, but stick to standard size
2. Magnetronic ignition
3. Electric cooling fan with a good in-line controller. Relay power from battery so it continues to run after ignition is off until engine is cooled.
4. Braided brake hoses (you'll need to replace current hoses anyway)
5. Either Trackerjack brakes or good branded pads. You might even consider a tandem conversion if it is an earlier car.
6. Relays for all headlamps
7. Halogen based replacement main beam inner headlamps, then you should be able to see where you are going on a winter evening.
8. Concave glass for wing mirrors
9. Air horns

No. 9, you need to be careful here, as in the UK for post 1/8/73 cars, air horns cannot do anything other than emit a continuous tone.
(Earlier cars may play a tune )

There is a lot of scope for improving a Sprint (or any 70s car for that matter) using updated technologies/parts.
Further to the above, here are a few more, in no particular order.....
Cooling system: silicone hoses, JCS hose clips, Evans waterless coolant. Volvo 850 (or similar) expansion bottle.
Ignition system: 123 distributor, Magnecor leads
Clutch: stainless steel braided clutch hose, lightweight Saab clutch cover (saves 3kg!), use only the proper RHP release bearing
Propshaft: Ford centre mounting, also an o/d mount can be replaced with a Ford Sierra Type 9 mount
Fuel: replace all fuel lines using proper unleaded compatible hose and 8mm bore Kunifer. Fit an inline filter.
Windscreen: use best quality wipers, replace washer jets (Austin Mini type are a good alternative)
Steering: solid rack mount, Superflex bushes for lower coupling or a forged (not pressed) T2000 UJ instead.
Suspension: Superflex bushes
Wheel nuts: use a steel version instead of the original light alloy.
Trackerjack brakes are an essential, I would not drive a Dolomite without them now. You will need extra brake lights!


There is probably quite a few others,as the saying goes how long is a length of string....?



Ian.

[Jon Tilson]

Having run a Sprint as a daily for years I can say that you really dont need to do too much to replace the standard bits.

Just get it running driving and stopping and then improve what you dont like.

Use good quality antifreeze like bluecol at no more than 20%.

You will almost certainly need to do the water pump seal before long.

Do away with or sort out the ignition ballast bypass feed and coil.

Steering column lower bush will be worn.

New seal kits in all hydraulic cylinders. Get NOS ones of ebay whenever you can.

Ask lots of questions here.

Jonners

[cliftyhanger]

Hoses seem to be a bit of an issue these days. Go to a local spares shop and ask for R9 rated fuel hose. You will get a look that implies you are from another planet. R9 is the required standard to cope with ethanol containing fuels........so anything less is daft.
I actually ordered a roll of Gates Barricade hose from the states as a friend is popping over for the RBRR and is bringing it as hand luggage. The bizarrely had to pick up a CV gaiter on Saturday from local supplier, while waiting for the local lads to pay for their bling bits for corsas, I happened to look at the pre-bagged "stuff in display. 1/2m lengths of fuel hose that was marked up as R9. Bit pricey though at £5 a pop, but cheap compared to a car fire.

As to rad hoses, I have given up buying from Triumph suppliers, the hoses have such a short lifespan. The stuff you buy off the roll is fine, and I usually manage to find OE hoses (mitsubushi, nissan, ford etc used on my Toledo) that can be adapted for use where a shaped one is required, or buy silicone.

It is sad that it has come to this, largely "our" own fault (classic owners buying on price alone)

One other mod I would suggest is electronic ignition. And don't fit a new rotor arm/dizzy cap if the old one is OK, see above.......

[tinweevil]

Heed these words, they are golden.

Get the car running in standard form, using the best components you can find.

[errigal]

Wow what a response. Thanks folks. I gotta lotta hay to chew now

I will start by asking recommendations for clutch cylinder manufacturers and braided clutch hose?

Also brake master cylinder best brand?

Thanks in advance

[Jon Tilson]

With hydraulic cylinders always go for new old stock.
Never write your old ones off. They can be resleeved at worst and usually are fine with new seal kits.
For a road car if you are doing everything I would consider silicon fluid. It means your cylinders are unlikely to corrode again.

Jonners

[red&black]

In addition to what has already been said,I suggest that you join the club (if you haven't already) and purchase some of their alloy spark plug tubes and cam cover retaining screws.The tubes will eliminate the problem of the standard ones filling up with oil,and the screws will stop oil leaking onto the exhaust manifold.
While the cover is off it's worth tightening down the head and replacing the U shaped rubber grommets. If you can't get an original (thick) cam cover gasket,you can stick 2 thin ones together and coat the mating surfaces thinly with grease-makes it much easier to remove.
I would also suggest cutting an access hole in the transmission tunnel to make checking gearbox oil much easier,and fitting some kind of device to warn that the lights have been left on.
Good luck with it.

James
Edit:Noticed you are a club member already

[AlanH]

I don't know much about Sprints but, like the advice given above, I'm a great believer in improving the 70s technology where you can on all of our cars.

One thing that I would suggest, especially if the car has been stood for some time, is go round all of the electrical connectors with a brush and contact cleaner and replace the flasher units with solid state ones.

Fit an 015 battery, it doesn't cost much more than an 038.

[grifterkid]

Get the car running in standard form, using the best components you can find...

I have to echo this (as others have done already) as it is, quite simply the best thing to do!

I use my Toledo daily and I'd just recommend getting it thoroughly serviced every 5000 miles or so to ensure everything is 'fresh' and up to the job in hand.

The good thing about a car being a daily driver is that (generally!) it is better to use old cars regularly rather than every now and again so just by using it you're doing it the power of good.

Just make sure (as I said) it is serviced regularly and thoroughly cleaned regularly too...