How bad is my Sprint?

[Jon Tilson]

looking great.
Bondaprimer is the biz...
Jonners

[shaunroche]

How's that front valance going? Fit OK first time or fettling required?

Hehe...hi Tom.....to say it's needing a bit of fettling is an under statement....It doesn't remotely fit! Way better than nothing though!

[shaunroche]

looking great.
Bondaprimer is the biz...
Jonners

2.5 litres on bare metal and that's just the underside! Ordered a new tin for the inner front and inner wings.....Cheers for the advice Jon!

[shaunroche]

Soon be back in my garage for pre paint prep!!

[straylight]

that looks like a fair compromise on how the indicators should be mounted



and nice work on the car, very nice.

[Pippin]

that looks like a fair compromise on how the indicators should be mounted

Good spot. I didn't see what you meant straightaway.

[shaunroche]

As the engine build is getting closer to completion, I have once again turned my thoughts to cooling.

The spec of the engine is that it has been fully lightened and balanced, is using a Newman/TT10106 cam and Kent Vernier Pulley with twin 45 DCOE’s on a matched/ported manifold with a facet fuel pump and a fuel regulator.

Additionally, I plan to fit an oil cooler with the spin on oil filter as seen on Rob Macgregor’s car on the inner wing.


As I have experienced cooling problems with a slightly modified Sprint before, I am planning to do all I can to eliminate or at least drastically reduce the possibility from the off.

I am planning on fitting the Davis Craig water pump (Jon has very kindly fitted the blanking plug etc. to the block to facilitate this) with an electric/electronically controlled cooling fan.

Initially, I was looking at getting a bespoke radiator made up with enhanced flow and cooling characteristics at a cost of about £350….however, I did then spot the Diesel Fiesta rad swap and also the Saab one too.

So, question is, with the above water pump and fan, coupled with say a new std Sprint Rad and standard header tank, be sufficient for competition use or should I be looking at a bigger rad and a different header tank set up?

Anyhoo, the shell will be back from the workshop soon and as such have just had the reconditioned prop back from Dave Mac’s (a new centre bearing and additional machining bumped the price up from £200 to a hefty £330!!) and the replacement axle is getting tidied up, with complete new back brakes and drums with the pinion oil seal getting changed before being nailed to the car.

Things should start coming together anytime soon….the engine is in with Jon Jackson in Portsmouth (nearer to France than me!!), the recon gearbox with Jonners near that London and the shell over near Knutsford, with only the rebuilt, powder coated subframe, axle, prop, powder coated suspension components, AVO springs and shocks and miscellaneous powder coated bracketry in my garage….the plan is to get the shell back, prep it for paint and then spend the winter nailing bits on over the winter when back from the sprayers.

With no prospect of the car getting anywhere near finished this year, mid 2015 is the aiming point.

[shaunroche]

A few more......

[sprint95m]

So, question is, with the above water pump and fan, coupled with say a new std Sprint Rad and standard header tank, be sufficient for competition use or should I be looking at a bigger rad and a different header tank set up?

The standard header tank is the weak link of a Dolomite's cooling system, so even on a standard car replacing it is desirable.
I have used a Volvo 850 one, which costs about £30 c/w cap split new from Volvo. It has to be positioned on the NS turret.


The Saab radiator is a better choice than the Ford one because it needs no modification, already having the correct top, bottom and vent hose orientations.
Furthermore the hoses, especially the LH top hose, are a better fit.


You should use Evans waterless coolant. It is the easiest upgrade......





Ian.

[shaunroche]

Thanks for the reply Ian!

What is it about the std header tank is it that causes the problem.....is it not big enough?

Which Saab rad specifically do I require btw? Was it the 9-5? Any particular year or model, ie petrol, Diesel?

As it's virtually a new build I will go with the Evans option to start with I think....I have seen your threads about the header tank which is illuminating, but as I want to go for a more period look, I think I'll go for an after market alloy one.

[tinweevil]

There's nothing wrong with the design of the header tank, it just got ruined by the beancounters along the way. The later plastic type has a metal inert in the neck which rusts and the cap cannot seal. If you can find an early brass expansion tank it will be fine.

[shaunroche]

If you can find an early brass expansion tank it will be fine.

That's good then as that is the one I have! Cheers for that!

[sprint95m]

What is it about the std header tank is it that causes the problem.....is it not big enough?

Which Saab rad specifically do I require btw? Was it the 9-5? Any particular year or model, ie petrol, Diesel?

As it's virtually a new build I will go with the Evans option to start with I think....I have seen your threads about the header tank which is illuminating, but as I want to go for a more period look, I think I'll go for an after market alloy one.

The standard system relies on a syphon effect, coolant as it expands is forced to the tank and after the engine is switched off it should return to the engine.
However this doesn't always work, for example, if the thermostat housing gasket fails the coolant will be lost from the engine but not from the expansion tank. Therefore
when you check the coolant level you are fooled into thinking it is okay despite the level being too low in the engine.........

A big advantage of the (for example) Volvo type is that any coolant loss will occur there first, so the low level warning will be activated
BEFORE the level starts to drop within the engine.



Yes, there loads of Saab radiators, or to be more precise, variations of radiator.
viewtopic.php?f=4&t=20092
Image Shack doesn't display the photos anymore for some reason and the link to the radiator doesn't work now either .
Anyhow, it is for a 9-3 2.0 litre turbo petrol without air conditioning or an oil cooler. I went for the 34mm thick version.





Ian.

[Jon Tilson]

The old style metal expansion tanks have a pretty ropey bit of soldering on the inlet tube. This means you pretty much reduce your cooling system pressure to atmospheric with not much warning.

Nice looking engine build there. Hope Mr TJ used the approved tensioner.

I'm not heading to Notts much before the end of November so if you are picking up the engine before that let me know.


Jonners

[shaunroche]

Thanks for the replies fellas....I'll have to get the tank pressure tested I think and get a rad on order!

All the alloy tanks I saw on ebay for instance had more than one pipe sticking out of it so I was very confused as which one to go for, being as there is only one feed to the sprint tank.....

Jon used a Nissan tensioner as the one I originally supplied was one of the dodgy Rolon types and opened the oil hole up I think....

End of November or whenever is fine Jonners....all being well the car should be in paint then so no rush ta!