This is a bit of a daft question but it has been bugging me.
I removed the distributor recently and noticed that the center shaft can be replaced in almost any position. I decided that, so long as the rotor was pointing to the cylinder 1, lead at TDC then it should not matter providing I got the other leads in the correct sequence.
I replaced the shaft the way that I think it came out so, looking down on the dizzy from the exhaust side the No1 lead went on at the bottom right hand corner. The rotor pointing this way at TDC.
The engine has started running a bit rough recently so I'm wondering if the positioning makes any difference. My logic tells me not but I wonder if there is a 'correct' position.
Distributor rotor position
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Re: Distributor rotor position
What sort of dolimite are we talking here? Its a bit different between the ohc cars and the ohv ones.
On an ohv car thr driving dog is offset so its pretty hard to get it back in wrong.
On a slant car the toothed cog can go in as many ways as it has teeth on the drive cog. The trouble is the teeth are on a skew gear so the rotor arm rotates quite
a lot as the cog engages. Its about 30 degrees IIRC. So the position you want it in is with the tooth that goes with the adjusting slot about in the middle when you do the bolts
back up. Easier said than done. So put the crank at 11 btdc or whatever and then put the dizzie back in so that the points are just opening and the rotor arm is pointing at no1
in the cap. On a Sprint its easy to get this wrong. Look carefully at the leads and which one goes with which rotor position. If you havent changed the leads in the cap
it should go back the same and run ok.
You will need to set the timing up with a strobe to get best running. If the position is up against one end of the slot you can move it round one tooth so it can be adjusted both ways.
Jonners
On an ohv car thr driving dog is offset so its pretty hard to get it back in wrong.
On a slant car the toothed cog can go in as many ways as it has teeth on the drive cog. The trouble is the teeth are on a skew gear so the rotor arm rotates quite
a lot as the cog engages. Its about 30 degrees IIRC. So the position you want it in is with the tooth that goes with the adjusting slot about in the middle when you do the bolts
back up. Easier said than done. So put the crank at 11 btdc or whatever and then put the dizzie back in so that the points are just opening and the rotor arm is pointing at no1
in the cap. On a Sprint its easy to get this wrong. Look carefully at the leads and which one goes with which rotor position. If you havent changed the leads in the cap
it should go back the same and run ok.
You will need to set the timing up with a strobe to get best running. If the position is up against one end of the slot you can move it round one tooth so it can be adjusted both ways.
Jonners
Note from Admin: sadly Jon passed away in February 2018 but his humour and wealth of knowledge will be fondly remembered by all. RIP Jonners.
Re: Distributor rotor position
Sounds like you haven't timed it but yes you did it right. Bare in mind that with a slant it's easy to make the mistake of 180deg out (which you haven't made if it's running).
- Toledo Man
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Re: Distributor rotor position
With No. 1 cylinder in the firing position the rotor arm should be pointing at one of the inlet manifold bolts (I think it is the 2nd one from the left looking from the driver's side) when you take the dizzy cap off. The points are a right royal PITA to get to. Fitting a Sprint dizzy and the Britpart electronic ignition kit was one of my better moves.
Hope this helps.
Hope this helps.
Toledo Man
West Yorkshire Area Organiser
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2003 Volvo XC90 D5 SE (PX53 OVZ - The daily driver)
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Check my blog at http://triumphtoledo.blogspot.com
My YouTube Channel with a bit of Dolomite content.
"There is only one way to avoid criticsm: Do nothing, say nothing and BE nothing." Aristotle
West Yorkshire Area Organiser
Meetings take place on the first Wednesday of the month at 8.00pm at The Railway, 1 Birstall Lane, Drighlington, Bradford, BD11 1JJ
2003 Volvo XC90 D5 SE (PX53 OVZ - The daily driver)
2009 Mercedes-Benz W204 C200 CDI Sport (BJ58 NCV - The 2nd car)
1991 Toyota Celica GT (J481 ONB - a project car)
Former stable of SAY 414M (1974 Toledo), GRH 244D (1966 1300fwd), CDB 324L (1973 1500fwd), GGN 573J (1971 1500fwd), DCP 625S (1977 Dolomite 1300) & LCG 367N (1975 Dolomite Sprint), NYE 751L (1972 Dolomite 1850 auto) plus 5 Acclaims and that's just the Triumphs!
Check my blog at http://triumphtoledo.blogspot.com
My YouTube Channel with a bit of Dolomite content.
"There is only one way to avoid criticsm: Do nothing, say nothing and BE nothing." Aristotle
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Re: Distributor rotor position
Have a read of this ....
https://www.dollywiki.co.uk/wiki/1850_D ... ts_setting.
...... and this perhaps. It may help.
https://www.dollywiki.co.uk/wiki/Dolomi ... adjustment
Good luck with sorting it.
https://www.dollywiki.co.uk/wiki/1850_D ... ts_setting.
...... and this perhaps. It may help.
https://www.dollywiki.co.uk/wiki/Dolomi ... adjustment
Good luck with sorting it.
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- Guest contributor
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- Joined: Tue Oct 03, 2006 9:45 pm
- Location: Middlesex
Re: Distributor rotor position
If you get an 1850 180 degrees out you can just switch the leads around.
The dizzie can go in any one of 4 positions. Just make that position point to no1 and then set the
others according to the firing order, 1-3-4-2
Dave's wiki guide on setting 1850 points and general dizzie stuff is a good read and nice pics.
You may want to go down the electronic ignition route at some stage.
Jonners
The dizzie can go in any one of 4 positions. Just make that position point to no1 and then set the
others according to the firing order, 1-3-4-2
Dave's wiki guide on setting 1850 points and general dizzie stuff is a good read and nice pics.
You may want to go down the electronic ignition route at some stage.
Jonners
Note from Admin: sadly Jon passed away in February 2018 but his humour and wealth of knowledge will be fondly remembered by all. RIP Jonners.