1850 hl heavy steering

[tractor boy]

Hi its tractor boy i have taken my dolomite 1850 off the road for winter and to do a few small jobs. The car is fitted with sprint wheelsand pirelli tyres. I have managed to grease the steering rack by removing the rubber boots and also the bottom ball joints through the grease nipples. This has helped but the steering is still fairly heavy is it possible to get geaseable top ball joints and track rod ends. Any suggestions out there? Thanks tractorboy

[Dolly-Nut]

Jack it up and see how easy it is turn steer the wheels by hand (without the steering lock on). If it's easy and smooth it's probably just you being used to modern power steered stuff. There will be some resistance there but it shouldn't take much effort.

[Jon Tilson]

A frequent cause of heavy steering on a dolomite is a partially seized universal joint in the steering column intermediate shaft.

Have a look at that.

Jonners

[Toledo Man]

Don't forget the simple stuff such as tyre pressures. Alloy wheels are more prone to losing air at the rims than steel wheels so the chances are that the tyres have lost some air. I'm forever having to pump up my rear tyres. (I've got a compressor so the job is much easier). Dan definitely has a point. If you're used to modern power steering, the Dolly will feel a bit heavy by comparison. I don't really notice much difference between the Astra's electric power steering and the Dolly except at low speeds.

On the subject of the top balljoint, this page from the 1976-1980 parts catalogue might help.

It looks like a grease nipple can be fitted in place of the bolt at the top if you have the original type balljoints. Most aftermarket balljoints can't be regreased without removing them and taking the dustcover off. Also if the dustcovers have torn then the grease will be lost and corrosion will set in making the steering heavier. Another possibility is that the grease in the balljoints has solidified.

[MIG Wielder]

I have managed to grease the steering rack by removing the rubber boots and also the bottom ball joints through the grease nipples. tractorboy

There should be a grease nipple at the pinion end of the casting. It may have been replaced by a bolt. I like to use EP140 a very heavy old-style diff-oil here. My rack hasn't been changed in 77,000 miles.
HTH,
Tony.

[tractor boy]

Thanks for your replies. I will have another crawl under tomorrow and get some 90 oil into ball joints. I could join a gym and build my muscles up!!! Thanks tractorboy

[Richard the old one]

I agree with Jonners check the Universal joint in the steering column intermediate shaft.

[tractor boy]

At last ihave been able to get round to looking at universal joint at the end of the steering column. Spayed it with loads of wd40 and released lots of red rusty gunge. Steering feels much easier will keep on treating with wd40 and oil in the hope it penetrates the swivel joints. Thanks again Tractorboy.

[xvivalve]

Try 'plus gas' rather than wd40; wd40 does not penetrate.