I'm progressing very slowly on my Dolomite restoration and have started the big underfloor scrape. Once the floors/sills/arches are cleaned up and all metalwork sorted, I'll be using a rust converter/primer before painting and undersealing. What products/brands are recommended for painting onto the bare floor before paint and what's the best brush on underseal.
Thanks in advance.
rust protection
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Larry 1300
- TDC Member
- Posts: 107
- Joined: Wed Sep 24, 2014 10:12 am
- Location: Glasgow
Re: rust protection
Hi I was speaking to a guy my body shop and he said that rust convertors don't work.
I put POR15 paint onto my floor pan which had surface rust. I will let you know if the rust stays away. There must have been a leak from the door because there is a weather strip there. I only bought the car in July and noted a bit of newspaper under the carpet. I thought there may be news in it from 1980 but was disappointed to see it was from June 2014.
I painted on Tetroseal wax to the underside of my car and use Bilt Hamber in the box sections. I see some on the internet recommend used engine oil for injection to the sills and box sections ,but I have found this to be very messy.
I found that Waxoyl spray in an aerosol tends to clog up and found that Toolstation sell a wax aerosol for around £3 which sprays very nicely. I don't know how effective it is protecting against rust though. I also found Waxoyl's high pressure sprayer difficult to use, that's why I reverted to painting it on.
I put POR15 paint onto my floor pan which had surface rust. I will let you know if the rust stays away. There must have been a leak from the door because there is a weather strip there. I only bought the car in July and noted a bit of newspaper under the carpet. I thought there may be news in it from 1980 but was disappointed to see it was from June 2014.
I painted on Tetroseal wax to the underside of my car and use Bilt Hamber in the box sections. I see some on the internet recommend used engine oil for injection to the sills and box sections ,but I have found this to be very messy.
I found that Waxoyl spray in an aerosol tends to clog up and found that Toolstation sell a wax aerosol for around £3 which sprays very nicely. I don't know how effective it is protecting against rust though. I also found Waxoyl's high pressure sprayer difficult to use, that's why I reverted to painting it on.
Thanks
Laurence
Laurence
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alolympic
Re: rust protection
Glad to know I am not the only one on my back, tackling this job in the cold of winter.
This is what I have settled on, after much research and previous success with these products;
For heavily rusted areas - cover in Bilt Hamber Deox Gel and get back to clean steel. You can literally see clean metal after this process.
For rusted areas that can't be removed by the above, use Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80 as a rust converter.
For clean steel, and on top of the small areas coated in Hydrate 80, apply Bilt Hamber Electrox zinc rich primer.
Next, for the ultimate protection on top of Electrox, apply their 2 part Epoxy mastic.
On top of that, I am applying Dinitrol Stonechip 445 again, as it has stood up to 4 years of use under my boot floor so trust it well.
You shouldn't have need for a wax layer on top of that lot, but if you do, don't bother with waxoyl, stick with Dynax UB or a Dinitrol one.
It's a long, and fairly expensive job to do properly but well worth doing it right I think.
This is what I have settled on, after much research and previous success with these products;
For heavily rusted areas - cover in Bilt Hamber Deox Gel and get back to clean steel. You can literally see clean metal after this process.
For rusted areas that can't be removed by the above, use Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80 as a rust converter.
For clean steel, and on top of the small areas coated in Hydrate 80, apply Bilt Hamber Electrox zinc rich primer.
Next, for the ultimate protection on top of Electrox, apply their 2 part Epoxy mastic.
On top of that, I am applying Dinitrol Stonechip 445 again, as it has stood up to 4 years of use under my boot floor so trust it well.
You shouldn't have need for a wax layer on top of that lot, but if you do, don't bother with waxoyl, stick with Dynax UB or a Dinitrol one.
It's a long, and fairly expensive job to do properly but well worth doing it right I think.
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cleverusername
- Guest contributor
- Posts: 1560
- Joined: Mon Dec 03, 2012 6:04 pm
Re: rust protection
I have just used a combination of underseal and zinc primer. It seems to have worked, however alot of that might be to do with the fact the car spends most of its time in a dry garage. Which seems to be the most effective form of rust proofing.
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scotchydoodle
Re: rust protection
Thanks chaps. My floor/sills etc are pretty rust free with just surface rust here and there (there's a lot for be said for oil leaks). I think I will get it scraped and cleaned up with wire wheel before trying some of the Hydrate 80 and primer. Will probably be scraping for a long time yet as some of the old underseal has been very well put on.