Changing Sprint Rear Wheel Studs

[mikeybish]

In a word - how?

We've got an early Sprint axle with the smaller studs, one of which is broken. We wish to upgrade to later thinker studs.

The conclusion is that the hub will need to come off the shaft to do this, but how does is the metal cover on the back of the hub secured?

[Toledo Man]

Mike, are you referring to the brake backplate or the cover that goes over the hub nut? You will need to remove the hub to be able to replace the studs. Getting the hub off can be a pig of a job. The GT6 hub puller that Canley Classics sells should do the job. Throw in an impact wrench and it is 10 times easier.

[mikeybish]

no I mean once the hub is off the shaft, it would appear that you cannot just push the studs out of the hub as on the Sprint, there is a metal cover affixed to the rear of the hub, covering up the backs of the studs.

I don't think that you can use a Spit hub puller on a Sprint as the end of the driveshaft and hubnut protrude too far

[soe8m]

Hello Mikey,

Well, if you knew how many sprints there are running without that metal plate it does make it a lot easier to replace the studs.

Jeroen

[jikovron]

The metal cover is crimped around the hub edge so really only can be cut off circumferentially and re secured with little m3 or similar bolts drilled and tapped into the rear face when refitting if desired it doesn't seem that important but its no hassle to fit again .

Imo the pullers are no match for the consumate ease that a hydraulic press will over power the tapers grip and a decent support for the hub can be sorted no issue , I once made a puller out of inch plate with multiple pcds drilled into it and a m20 bolt running though 5 m20 nuts stacked and welded together to give plenty of thread area and in some situations it was stretching the studs tbh

[mikeybish]

Thanks guys, so the conclusion is - split the hub from the shaft to get access to the rear of the hub, prize/cut off hub rear plate,, change studs and re-assemble leaving plate off!

Cheers

Mike

[Jon Tilson]

The Spitfire style rear hub puller can be used but with a slight mod to mill an inner step
so that it clears the spigot on Sprint hubs.

You need this type of puller to avoid distorting the hub flanges.

Jonners

[MIG Wielder]

I think it would be a good idea to put this metal plate back if possible, as in the Parts Book it is 155544 described as "oil shield, rear axle casing ". Now I reckon the inner stepped feature of this part actually runs in the grease on the rear axle end bearings and is sealed if the lip of the outer seal runs on this stepped part. Would it leak grease into the drums if it wasn't there I wonder ?
Tony.

[soe8m]

No, it is to prevent that grease or oil leaks into the drum when the seal does break. The same as the odd shaped plate on an 1850 what guides grease and oil through a hole of the brake backplate outside the drum.

It is not a seal but when a seal doesn't seal anymore then it prevents.

Jeroen

[Robert 352]

I withdrew the half shaft assembly from the axle, for in my case I am in the process of changing the wheel bearing and seals as well as the studs, but if you were only changing the studs then it may not be necessary to press the hub off the shaft.

I found that cover plate comes off quite easily although it takes a bit of time to do it if you want to reuse it. I just worked my way around the rolled over edge easing it back, and went round the edge a couple of times.

I shall be interested to learn where you are going to find the new 7/16 studs.

Robert

[mikeybish]

no new studs I'm afraid, just old ones recycled from some spare front hubs!

[Karlos]

On my 1850 I swapped my 3/8 wheel studs for T2000 7/16 studs. Just whacked them out of the hub with a copper mallet. I modified the T2000 studs by grinding a shamfer onto the flange of the stud's head, to make a flush fit on the rear of the hub. Then pushed them back into the hub with a spot of ThreadLoc on the splines. I used a steel nut to pull them hard through. I guess the Sprint hub is bigger and doesn't have the clearance to get the studs out or in with the hub in situ. Anyway I reckon you could still use T2000 studs. I am sure someone will go beserk after reading my mega-bodge

[Karlos]

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181594902154

add some wheel spacers too.