NWL – Project Concours Carmine Sprint

[Pippin]

I believe Kunifer is an a alloy of copper (Cu / Ku), Nickel (Ni) and steel (Fe / Fer)

[SprintMWU773V]

I've not suffered broken pipes but the issue is well documented and helps explain why copper pipes are banned in some countries. I did discover some copper pipe on my sprint and you could see it was starting to fail due to work hardening caused by vibration and wheel cylinder movement. Kunifer is only slightly more expensive than copper so Kunifer is a no brainer.

Is that Kunifer or Copper tubing? Wouldn't use Copper there as it'll work harden and break.
.

That's scary ! I've had 2 Sprints and an 1850 with copper brake pipes from the leading manufacturer. Where did yours fracture ? Were they clipped to the diff; correctly ?
What is the difference between copper and kunifer ?
Ta,
Tony.

[James467]

I'm just putting the tie bars back together, can someone confirm if this is the correct way of putting the bushes and washers on. I didn't take a photo when they came off of the car (seems unlike me!) so I have put them together as per the workshop manual but the parts manual shows the outer washer on the inside which confuses me a bit, also is there just the one nylon washer per side?

From inside to out (front to back!)

Dished washer (Dished bit facing towards the body mount or bushed eye)
Rubber bush (Flat bit towards the axle mount)
Axle bracket
Nylon washer
Rubber Bush (Flat bit towards the axle mount)
Dished washer (Dished bit facing away from the bush or towards the back of the car)
Large plain washer
Nut
Pin

[Mad Mart]

Almost. The rubber bushes should be the other way around ie. flat face against the washers. Yes only one nylon washer afaik.

Edit: That's strange. I just noticed note 7 in your pic and it says exactly the opposite to my note 7.

[James467]

Thanks Mart, interesting, inside the front page of my manual is says Publication Part No. AKM 3629 (2nd Edition) and the copyright date is 1980.

[Mad Mart]

Ah! yes, I have that manual as well. I got my info from the original operations manual, the one with the brown cover and A4 loose-leaf pages. I believe it's 1973 issue 1. Maybe they were fitting them the wrong way?

[James467]

I'm having a problem getting the rear trailing arm bushes in and it seems that I wasn't the only one. One of the bushes from Rimmers has been damaged and looks mashed up as well as the steel centre bush coming away from the rubber outer, so I'll phone them up on Monday.

Any advice here, I have tried heating it up in boiling water, lubrication (KY Jelly, seriously!!) and it just wont go in. It's almost like it needs a mini piston ring compressor just to compress it slightly so the outer shoulders slide in.

[Reg]

1 long bolt and nut.
2 large washers. (Wider than the bushes and the hole in the arm)

Pass bolt through 1 washer, bush and hole in arm. Put other washer on other end, then nut.

Do up nut while holding bolt other end, marvel and enjoy at the ease at which the bush pops in!..I did anyway!

[elmefrio]

Almost. The rubber bushes should be the other way around ie. flat face against the washers. Yes only one nylon washer afaik.

Edit: That's strange. I just noticed note 7 in your pic and it says exactly the opposite to my note 7.

This is interesting, I'm going to make the rear rebushing on my 1977 Sprint with superflex bush, and I have too the 1973 BL Workshop Manual, so, wich is the correct position of flat part of the bush?
I'm very confused about,

[MalcGE]

I have tried heating it up in boiling water, lubrication (KY Jelly, seriously!!) and it just wont go in.

LOL......

On a less frivolous note, Reg's 'bolt and big washer trick is good. I have also used Reg's technique aided by a large 'ish' jubilee clip as an improvised compressing tool to get things started. When I was last 'beating about the bush' I was using std spec, not 'shore' if the poly bushes might be a bit tougher to compress. I think I might have used a smidge of silicone grease

[James467]

Thanks Reg, I've been using that method but the shoulders of the bushes weren't playing ball. Fed up with beating around the bush (my fingers were getting tired ) I compressed them with a jubilee clip as Malcs suggestion to get them started then used the press confidently and with a bit of lube they slid in nicely.

I'll get some pictures up ASAP but that completes the rear suspension.

The engines going to be ready for collection next Friday, any tips for Sprint engine assembly? Follow the manual? I'm used to A and B series engines!

[James467]

Elmefrio, I've gone with what my manual says, as per the posted picture. So the flat parts of the bush are on the axle mounting points. The outer washers are the opposite way round to what seems logical.

[elmefrio]

Ok, I all understand now, and about the Nylon washer, need only one on between axle and outer bush.

I can proceed with rebushing

[Reg]

Ok, all good stuff.

I installed Supaflex (superb quality) bushes when I did mine. They have a "slippy" feel to them, but I also added a smidge of grease. Rubber bushes on the other hand, could well indeed be a bit more "grippy". I've never tried to install original bushes, so I couldn't tell you the difference..

Glad you got 'em in..

[elmefrio]

I hear very good about Polybush Orange (75 Shorea) from Jigsaw too.

I know Polybush brand, because I have a Blue Kit (65 Shorea) on my 73 Spitfire MkiV and work very good and smooth.