Annoying Noise

[Dolly-Nut]

I managed to separate a shaft at work today. In fact this one only took around 5-10 tonne (only!) but it did fly across the workshop. I've ordered a wheel bearing kit and will try and work out how it all goes back together.

How are the front and rear hub faces separated? I assume the outer seal goes in there somewhere.

[Dolly-Nut]

Many years ago my race Sprint suffered what sounds like exactly the same damage as you describe. I had just acquired an LSD and gave the axle to a firm specialising in diffs to fit this. I didn't check the end float (I used to have this natural assumption that professionals know what they are doing) and ended up with loud clonking that turned out to be huge play in the end float. They couldn't get it right second time either so my friend and I did it ourselves. We were able to re-use the 'damaged' axle and with the end float set at the lower end of the range it worked perfectly for years afterwards, in fact until the LSD broke.

As you say you need a 50 tonne press to change the bearings and outer seals, but set up properly it should last a long time.

Good luck!

Geoff

Since you have experience in doing it am I right in saying additional shims increase endfloat? Just want to make sure I'm doing this right before I chuck slicks on it and take it round Combe sideways.

[Mad Mart]

You want between 0.004"-0.006" end float. You remove shims to take up slack.

[Dolly-Nut]

Think I've got this now. A new bearing should arrive tomorrow. To fit it do I have to fit the inner and outer races separately like is suggested in the manual? It looks like it's supplied as one piece.

[Mad Mart]

The rear bearings are similar to the front bearings...only bigger.