upper ball joint

[Larry 1300]

Hi on my 1980 Dolomite 1300 MOT there was advisory's on play in the upper ball joints and damage to the covers.
Are the repair kits for these upper ball joints fairly straight forward to use?
And are the ball joints doable on a DIY basis. My ability is limited but I am willing to give it a go. Any tips would be appreciated.

[geeksteve]

If it's the type with a bolt / grease nipple in the top then they're rebuildable. Otherwise they have to be replaced.

[Jon Tilson]

Yes the ones with a grease nipple need nothing more that a decent pair of circlip pliers to rebuild...

plus the splitter to get them off in the first place of course. You can get the boot separately too...

and it should have failed on the new regs....

Jonners

[Larry 1300]

Hi mine has a bolt at the top so hopefully this can be rebuilt. Thanks for the advice.
Is there a guide anywhere for removing and replacing the ball joint please?

[RobSun]

Hi Larry

Just replied to your PM.

Just before I got mine the ball joints had to be replaced for its MOT. He had it done professionally, they fitted the non grease nipple type and they split one of the new boots so this needed doing for its next MOT because it should be an automatic failure.

The last owner was surprised that it had failed that MOT because for the one before he had fitted the rebuild kit himself to save money. The millage between MOTs was only 670 so we can assume he hadn't done the job correctly.

Just saying Larry be careful if you are inexperienced as this is a critical part and if you don't feel confident enough to do it on your own maybe someone local in the club can give you a hand. If not consider getting it done by a reputable classic friendly professional.

Bob

[Toledo Man]

I've just replied to your PM as well before I noticed this thread. I'll second what Bob has said.

[Jon Tilson]

Haynes manuals for dolomites are often for sale cheap on ebay.

The removal procedure is not that involved. It just requires a good set of axles stands and a trolley jack, a decent 1/2 drive
imperial socket set, a ball joint splitter of the fork type and a decent hammer.
Jack up, support on axle stands and take off the front wheel. Undo the wheel nuts a tad before you jack the wheel up...lol.

I do it by loosening the 3 bolts that hold the ball joint, shock absorber and top wishbones together. Undo the big nut at the bottom of the ball joint tapered pin. Access to this can be achieved with a socket on a long extension so you can turn it from underneath the brake disc. Then smack the forked splitter in under the rubber boot - its history anyway and the tapered pin should come out of the hole a bit.

Then whip out the 3 bolts and pull out the ball joint. Note one bolt is a bit shorter and pay attention to the triangular plates that locate the whole business.

Not a lot to it really...

Jonners

[Mad Mart]

Here's a pic of a ball joint I had just refurbished...



I thought I had done a write-up in one of my resto threads but I can't see it anywhere. You will need to shim the new ball joint (shims should come with the refurb kit). Build the ball joint and shim it dry (no grease). When all is ok strip it, add grease & rebuild.

[Larry 1300]

Hi thanks for your help. Very good advice.

[Larry 1300]

Hi i was down in Bishopton and met club member David Harper today. He said that he would help me fit the upper ball joints when i get them. Thanks for all of your help.

[SprintMWU773V]

Personally I like the scissor action ball joint splitters.

[Larry 1300]

Hi I bought the new upper ball joints from Robsport International for £71 delivered (this included a 10% discount with Club Membership).
Club Member David Harper fitted them for me today and I am grateful for the time and effort that he spent helping me.

[davy67]

No problem Laurence. You know where I am whenever you need me.

David