NYE 751L - 1972 1850 auto

[Toledo Man]

The speakers are now the least of my concerns. I have a Dolomite-shaped carport ornament. Fortunately, I've been in this situation before so I've got the benefit of my previous experience and I've got the compressor which will make things a bit easier. I may have the use of a garage over the road and a couple of extra pairs of hands to get the job done.

[Carledo]

I have a Dolomite flex plate, but don't know if its 1500 or 1850, Is there a part number anywhere on it I can check? It's a pre-owned one so no label!

Steve

[Toledo Man]

It is listed as a different part number for the 1500 auto (216597) and is the same for the 1500TC. The 1850/Sprint one has always been TKC413 and is also the same as the TR7. Taking the engine out and leaving the autobox in situ is going to be the best method. The engine can be lifted straight upwards. I can also paint the engine bay and a few other things with the engine out of the car. I can find the source of the oil leak and hopefully cure it. The engine can also be cleaned and painted while it is out of the car. I'll be using some decent paint and NOT Hammerite.

Edit: The part number should be stamped on it. I've just had a look at one of my photos of the old one that broke in 2011 and the part number is clearly stamped on it.

[Toledo Man]

The first thing I should do is to diagnose the problem. If I can turn the torque converter on it's own then the flexplate is definitely broken. Once that has been confirmed, I can prepare for engine removal.

Edit: I've had an idea. An easy way of diagnosing the flexplate is to operate the starter motor and see if the engine turns normally. If it doesn't then the flexplate is broken. I filmed a quick video and uploaded it to YouTube HERE When I operated the starter motor the engine wasn't turning like it should and there was an awful noise so the flex plate is definitely broken. I'm still wanting to remove the engine on it's own so it should be relatively straightforward to do. I'm going away tomorrow for a few days (for my good lady's birthday) so there's not much I can do at the moment to prepare for the job.

The speakers were delivered this morning so I've tested them (they work!) and I've just put them on the parcel shelf.

I've got more important things to worry about so I'll get them installed once I've sorted out the flexplate problem.

[Jon Tilson]

Thats such a shame...

But on the premise that lightning only strikes the same place if you stand on a high hill in a thunderstorm what is it about YOUR
car that makes it break flexiplates?

Do you have in no particular order a too high tickover? maladjusted kick down cable? tendency to go into P while still moving
(you only do that once normally!) some sort of driveline misalignment? Missing bits that hold flexiplate to flywheel?

I may have an 1850/Sprint one but getting it to you is an issue...

Jonners

[Toledo Man]

Jonners, I've managed to get the tickover down to where it should be, I adjusted the kickdown cable recently which made an improvement, I've only moved the selector into P when the car was stationary (I do use the handbrake), everything was assembled correctly the last time I did the job and all the everything was present and correct. I even torqued up the bolts for the driveplate as per the flywheel settings (didn't have them in the Haynes). I've just had a look in the factory workshop manual and it recommends using new bolts (I reused the old ones) and the torque setting as the same as the flywheel (45 lb/ft). Unfortunately, Rimmer Bros don't have the bolts in stock. If I can't get new bolts, I'll have to use to use some thread locking compound.

Steve, the 1850/Sprint driveplate has 8 bolts & the 1500 one only has 4 bolts and 2 dowels which should help you identify which one you have. If it came off your Sprint it will fit.

[Carledo]

I'm pretty sure I sold the Sprint one with the trans and converter last year The one I have is one that came loose in a box of bits I bought from Mike Papworth (the same box that supplied your balljoints)
I have to go down to the shop tomorrow so I'll see how many bolt holes it has.
I daresay the last one you fitted was also pre-owned so not too surprising if it failed!

Steve

[Toledo Man]

It came from MikeyB so it was indeed "pre-owned". I think the original Triumph parts had the part number stamped on them. My replacement drive plate didn't have a part number stamped on it. I'll be going away to Edinburgh for a few days so my visits to this forum might be a bit sporadic depending upon what Premier Inn's Wi-Fi is like (or not!).

[Jon Tilson]

I wouldnt worry about re-using the bolts and 45 lb ft means they are VERY unlikely to come undone....

Ive reused flywheel bolts on numerous occasions and never had an issue...

Looks like you have all the bases covered. I cant think of any other reasons off hand but its a pretty unusual failure.

Jonners

[xvivalve]

The engine won't quite just lift out David, it will have to come forward by the length the torque convertor sticks into the bell housing...

[xvivalve]

Edit: well actually, on the way out you might not have to as the flexiplate and TC might get left behind...if it's a clean break...!

[Carledo]

Normally, you would unbolt the flexplate from the converter and I would recommend this is still done, even if the cracking may have made it moot. The engine then only needs to come forward the length of the converter stub in the crank - about an inch - and no splines to line up on replacement either!
Sorry, i've not been down to check on the flexplate i've got today, I have a good excuse though, at 2pm today our daughter Amy gave birth to twin boys! Mother and babies are doing well, but the grandparents are knackered!

Steve

[Toledo Man]

The plan is to get a drive plate from S&S, get the consumables I need and get the job done this week while I'm off work. I'm still in Edinburgh and we'll be going home tomorrow. I'm still intending to remove just the engine and I'll remove the radiator to give me some more room to get the engine out. I'm also planning to replace the crankshaft rear oil seal while I can get to it. I also want to paint the engine block & the radiator.

[Toledo Man]

I've got the driveplate from S&S. I also bought a crankshaft rear oil seal and the seal housing gasket at the same time. I'm going to change the seal while I can get to it. If it is the source of the oil leak then all well and good. It makes sense to change it while it is accessible.


I bought some antifreeze and some degreaser. I gave the driveplate a clean and it looks a lot better.


I've removed the battery and I've disconnected the electrical connections. I've also been able to borrow an engine crane from the local garage which did the work on the car. I've got use of a garage so all being well, I should be able to get the job done tomorrow.

[Toledo Man]

I've made a start. I got the use of a garage and loan of an engine crane in place.



The first job was to get the bonnet off and the radiator out. Getting the radiator out was a pig of a job. The coolant that came out was clean. Once it was out I gave it a coat of gloss black.



While that was drying I turned my attention to the job in hand.



The exhaust downpipe was fighting me so I undid it at the other end (breaking the clamp) and I finally got the engine out.

I was right about the driveplate.


Replacing the crankshaft rear oil seal was another pig of a job (it helps if you use the correct bolts when reassembling) and with plenty of sealant it should remain oil tight. I got the replacement drive plate on and the bolts just need torquing up before the engine can go back in. I must've spent the best part of 10 hours in the garage. Hopefully, it should all go back together a bit quicker.

To be continued...