NWL – Project Concours Carmine Sprint

[Mahesh]

The asbestos gaskets sound interesting, can you get any more.

Rimmers does a gasket set with a Payen head gasket, but what are the rest like.

[xvivalve]

Good show.

Those paper things are useless and rip when you apply any torque to the fixings. I have some NOS cam cover gaskets, water transfer plate gaskets and inlet manifold gaskets that really show the poor comparison.

[Jon Tilson]

Moss do an inlet manifold gasket in a blue sort of card that has worked quite well for me and isn't dear.

For the rocker cover there is a redone one in rubber that looks a good idea.

Jonners

[James467]

Moss do an inlet manifold gasket in a blue sort of card that has worked quite well for me and isn't dear.

For the rocker cover there is a redone one in rubber that looks a good idea.

Jonners

Got to be better than the white bathroom sealant that was on it before.

At least it was anti-mould......

Mahesh, Chris Witor has a Moprod set, the others I just buy off of eBay when they appear.

[James467]

One thing I did get out of the NEC show was to have a look at the airbox on the TR7 Sprint that the TR Owners Club had, they very kindly opened the bonnet for me.

This is mine



This is the TR7's



Both shot under artificial light and have had no colour fiddling in Lightroom.

I think the colour is pretty darn close.

[Carledo]

The lighting at NEC is famous (notorious) for the yellow cast that it gives to photos but I think it looks pretty close too.

Steve

[Mahesh]

The TR7 box almost looks as good as yours.
(I did say almost)

[Pippin]

The airbox in GrahamFountain's avatar looks more grey, less beige, than yours, but I don't know under what conditions that photo was taken. Although the TR7's airbox may be as good as yours, I think you were right not to polish your dashpots like the TR7 owner has done - it looks a bit "boyracer" to my taste!

[oily66]

Shiny dash pots let down by a dull water-pump cover, or is it the other way round

[James467]

Shiny dash pots let down by a dull water-pump cover, or is it the other way round

Um.. I don't get it! But I have had a long day so may be a bit slow!

Huge thanks to Mart for some collets, they arrived yesterday. I took some photos of the issues and finished a first build up of the head as I wanted to rotate the camshaft to see how bad the valve spring compression issue was. With the clearances correctly adjusted all of the springs are pretty much bottoming out and I expect that when fully warmed up they will be bottoming out fully so we have definitely found another example of what Mike was saying about very early heads. But like I said, I'd rather find this out now than when I've dropped a valve and ruined my engine.

Did you have any trouble removing the valves James? On some of mine the tops of the stems had a slight "top of a battered cold chisel effect" where they had been hammered as the springs bound, this made them tight through the guides.
Re 50k without issue, the head that I fitted had been running for 40 years. I think that I brought the problem to the fore by making my valve clearances bang on 18 thou.

From what I remember, not really. It may be that the clearances were set up really slack and I didn't notice, I didn't think the top end was particularly noisy though.

I have been speaking to Roe's who have just moved so cant do anything yet, I am also speaking to Serdi in Uxbridge who in theory can do what Mikes machinist did and cut the pedestals down without removing the stems. They have said that the main problem with removing the stems that the valve seats will need to be re cut and that may cause problems with shimming if the valves get recessed too far so I'd have to have another set of seats. If they insist on removing the stems then I'll be having a chat with then taking a drive up to Lancaster Engines, I may do this anyway, I'll keep you all updated.

While the heads off I don't want to reassemble the bottom end yet as I was planning to seal everything in ie put the sump and head on to prevent any dirt or dust finding its way in.

So I'm going to move on to my supposedly refurbished distributor, now here's a saga you're going to love! Then I'm going to take a break from this for a bit to regroup and do some bits on the MG, it's pretty darn tiring doing a restoration to this level!!

Thanks Alun, the spare dizzys arrived yesterday, I assume you received the money ok?

[Pippin]

Shiny dash pots let down by a dull water-pump cover, or is it the other way round

Um.. I don't get it! But I have had a long day so may be a bit slow!

I'm going to take a break from this for a bit to regroup and do some bits on the MG, it's pretty darn tiring doing a restoration to this level!!

It's a question of perspective. If you like shiny engine parts, the shiny dashpots on the TR7 are let down by the unpolished water-pump cover. If you think shiny parts are too bling, then the water-pump cover is let down by the shiny dash pots.

You're doing really well, it must be hard to stay motivated to achieve the superb finish you have so far, let alone photographing the whole process too.

Perhaps getting ahead of ourselves, but do you have a mint interior, or a supply of original fabric to recover a set of seats, or some other cunning plan?

[xvivalve]

Thanks Alun, the spare dizzys arrived yesterday, I assume you received the money ok?

I've not checked actually, it involves me, the computer, my wallet and a card reader all being in the same place at the same time!! I'm sure it has though...

[James467]

It's a question of perspective. If you like shiny engine parts, the shiny dashpots on the TR7 are let down by the unpolished water-pump cover. If you think shiny parts are too bling, then the water-pump cover is let down by the shiny dash pots.

Ahhhh I see! Told you I was being slow!!

Re the interior, I sourced some mint seats with absolutely no damage and very slight fading which are currently wrapped in plastic in the loft. I'm planning on checking them today just in case the mice have got in there. Also have a brand new headliner, the door cards that I got from Dan (DollyNut) have cleaned up perfectly and will look mint with new boards behind them, all the glass is good, I have brand new rear ql seals, the carpets cleaned up with some Bio Brisk and the Vax really well. The dash is frame is mint after cleaning, the dials all work and just require the bezels spraying black then the rims polishing, I may haver the speedo refurbished, haven't decided yet. I will re-cover the parcel tray knee bar, everything else plastic wise went through the dish washer and came up superb. I have replacement mlv sound deadening (dodo mat) and all of the required adhesive deadening panels that will disappear when it gets dipped. I actually received the new (correct American Walnut) veneer for the cappings and dash, I want to have a single grain that follows around the car, this is a job that I'm really looking forward to! Finally, the only thing I need to think about are the boot panels.

I'm always one step ahead then thinking about what needs to be done. There are so many components to think about and so many parts that fit together so I break everything down into small areas to help. I'm still agonising over the steering wheel. The one I have isn't strictly correct as it has a leather rim, but I do really like it!

I also found a company who will make me a front wiring loom, my one's filthy and really wont cut the mustard in the engine bay, the rear one will be fine after a good clean as it wont be as visible, I'll just have to replace a couple of wires that have been oversprayed in the past.

Thinking about the head again, it takes me 4 hours to get to Lancaster from here, I can do a return journey in a day so I may give Lancaster Engines a call today for a quote and just ask them to do the work as they've done it before on Mikes car.

[Tony Burd]

Ref the head work, these people used to be really good, not used them for 20 years or so but might be worth a call as they are a bit closer.

http://www.saundersmotorworks.com/

[Jon Tilson]

Really?
Never seen a Spit with "our" cord seat material. Early TR7's and some late GT6's but never a spit.
They are either vynil or houndstooth.

Jonners