I arrived at the rear oil seal (crankshaft) and it's obviously to loose. Took the dimensions and ordered a new seal.
To replace the seal the housing can be removed, but is it possible to change the seal with the housing in place? I tried this with a spare housing and a used seal, no problem to fit it from the outside!
What are your experiences like on this area?
If it's possible it saves removing the well placed (with liquid sealant) housing.
Replacing rear oil seal with housing in place?
- Toledo Man
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Re: Replacing rear oil seal with housing in place?
It is best to remove the housing. Just be careful with the sump gasket when you remove the housing. Don't forget to remove the 2 sump bolts that go into the housing. You will also need the housing gasket as well. When you come to fit the new seal, smear some clean oil on it to ensure a good seal (the same as you would with the seal on a spin-on oil filter). It also makes it easier to get the seal in place. I did this very job when I had to replace the drive plate back in November. It made sense to do it while I had access to it.
Toledo Man
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West Yorkshire Area Organiser
Meetings take place on the first Wednesday of the month at 8.00pm at The Railway, 1 Birstall Lane, Drighlington, Bradford, BD11 1JJ
2003 Volvo XC90 D5 SE (PX53 OVZ - The daily driver)
2009 Mercedes-Benz W204 C200 CDI Sport (BJ58 NCV - The 2nd car)
1991 Toyota Celica GT (J481 ONB - a project car)
Former stable of SAY 414M (1974 Toledo), GRH 244D (1966 1300fwd), CDB 324L (1973 1500fwd), GGN 573J (1971 1500fwd), DCP 625S (1977 Dolomite 1300) & LCG 367N (1975 Dolomite Sprint), NYE 751L (1972 Dolomite 1850 auto) plus 5 Acclaims and that's just the Triumphs!
Check my blog at http://triumphtoledo.blogspot.com
My YouTube Channel with a bit of Dolomite content.
"There is only one way to avoid criticsm: Do nothing, say nothing and BE nothing." Aristotle
Sorry......
I disagree with you Dave.
It is practical to replace the seal with the housing in place on the engine.
No point in doing unnecessary dismantling........?
Ian.
It is practical to replace the seal with the housing in place on the engine.
No point in doing unnecessary dismantling........?
Ian.
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Re: Replacing rear oil seal with housing in place?
Henk, check out two posts by a fellow countryman of yours on PAGE 6 of this thread:Henk wrote:I arrived at the rear oil seal (crankshaft) and it's obviously to loose. Took the dimensions and ordered a new seal.
To replace the seal the housing can be removed, but is it possible to change the seal with the housing in place? I tried this with a spare housing and a used seal, no problem to fit it from the outside!
What are your experiences like on this area?
If it's possible it saves removing the well placed (with liquid sealant) housing.
viewtopic.php?f=19&t=22925&start=75
Re: Replacing rear oil seal with housing in place?
Thanks guys, housing had to come off: seal didn't want to leave the housing...
I know of the shortened spring trick. Last time it worked for about two years, but now it only lasted a couple of months. The spring laid loose in the seal: bottom of body is rust-protected now!
Have to find out how to refix the spring properly.
I know of the shortened spring trick. Last time it worked for about two years, but now it only lasted a couple of months. The spring laid loose in the seal: bottom of body is rust-protected now!
Have to find out how to refix the spring properly.
- Mad Mart
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Re: Replacing rear oil seal with housing in place?
Once you've shortened the spring Henk, you need to twist the spring so that as you let go it screws itself into the other half. If that makes sense.
Sprintless for the first time in 35+ years.
... Still Sprintless.
Engines, Gearboxes, Overdrives etc. rebuilt. PM me.
2012 Porsche Boxster 981 S


Engines, Gearboxes, Overdrives etc. rebuilt. PM me.
2012 Porsche Boxster 981 S

Re: Replacing rear oil seal with housing in place?
Thanks again, managed it (hopefully).
Just need to re-install starter motor, prop shaft and gearbox remote and then off for the final miles of 2015.
See you next year!
Just need to re-install starter motor, prop shaft and gearbox remote and then off for the final miles of 2015.
See you next year!