Faulty Voltage Stabiliser??

[Jacob]

Hi All,

So my new dolly has recently started having an intermittent fault with it, and I am currently suspecting the voltage stabiliser to be the cause of the problem, but I come here for some more knowledge and expertise.

The ignition circuit of the electrics - so indicators, heated rear window, window wipers, brake lights etc all fail but it's a really intermittent fault, it can happen at any point when I'm driving the car there seems to be no given thing that will make it happen.

My reason for suspecting the Voltage Stabiliser is that the fuel gauge never reads full, however it is consistent, in where it goes to so i may be wrong? (maybe it's just the float in the tank?)

The other thing I suspect is the terminals going into and out of the fuse box itself, so i've had all of that apart and cleaned all of the contacts,(as read on another thread on here) the only other thing to check is the voltage coming into the fuse box. What reading should I get on my multimeter?

Also on another note but might be related is the right indicator, it's very erratic. Sometimes it will come on and stay on, other times it will blink slowly, and other times blink normally. The left however seems to be fine. Not sure if this is related at all?

I'm hoping someone will have a bit more knowledge on the current situation than me.

Thanks all.

Jacob

[marko]

I can post you one of these voltage stabilizers that I'm testing myself for you to use/test for free if you like.

[GTS290N]

Jacob, the voltage stabiliser supplies the temperature gauge and the fuel gauge with 10 volts (or should do) that's all it does.
So if your fuel tank never shows full AND your temperature gauge is always very low, Marko's offer should be taken up. In fact Marko's offer should be taken up anyways
The right indicator is possibly a bad earth or loose lamp holder, or both.

[MIG Wielder]

Hi All,

The ignition circuit of the electrics - so indicators, heated rear window, window wipers, brake lights etc all fail but it's a really intermittent fault, it can happen at any point when I'm driving the car there seems to be no given thing that will make it happen.

The other thing I suspect is the terminals going into and out of the fuse box itself, so i've had all of that apart and cleaned all of the contacts,(as read on another thread on here) the only other thing to check is the voltage coming into the fuse box. What reading should I get on my multimeter?

Jacob

You are certainly looking in the right area for the "Ignition On" intermittent fault. The area where the internal fuse wire is soldered to the fuse end cap sometimes breaks giving just this sort of fault. Check this first then try cleaning and retensioning the brass connectors in turn. Including the contacts area of the fuse itself.
With the "+" lead of the multimeter on the brown wire and the "-" lead on a good earth check for 13.5 V (+/- 0.5V or so ) withe the engine running and low electrical load.
HTH,
Tony.

[Jacob]

You are certainly looking in the right area for the "Ignition On" intermittent fault. The area where the internal fuse wire is soldered to the fuse end cap sometimes breaks giving just this sort of fault. Check this first then try cleaning and retensioning the brass connectors in turn. Including the contacts area of the fuse itself.
With the "+" lead of the multimeter on the brown wire and the "-" lead on a good earth check for 13.5 V (+/- 0.5V or so ) withe the engine running and low electrical load.
HTH,
Tony.

"Internal fuse wire is souldered to the fuse end cap" - what do you mean by this. I'm not sure I know which wire you mean? Or where it is?

I will test the rest tomorrow and will certainly take Marko up on his offer. I've just PM'd him.

So hopefully I will get some results.

Thanks for your help so far, I will update you with results.

Jacob

[Carledo]

You are certainly looking in the right area for the "Ignition On" intermittent fault. The area where the internal fuse wire is soldered to the fuse end cap sometimes breaks giving just this sort of fault. Check this first then try cleaning and retensioning the brass connectors in turn. Including the contacts area of the fuse itself.
With the "+" lead of the multimeter on the brown wire and the "-" lead on a good earth check for 13.5 V (+/- 0.5V or so ) withe the engine running and low electrical load.
HTH,
Tony.

"Internal fuse wire is souldered to the fuse end cap" - what do you mean by this. I'm not sure I know which wire you mean? Or where it is?

I will test the rest tomorrow and will certainly take Marko up on his offer. I've just PM'd him.

So hopefully I will get some results.

Thanks for your help so far, I will update you with results.

Jacob

What he mean, basically, is try some new fuses as they can have internal faults that are not readily visible!

Steve