Hi this is my first post.
My dolomite sprint initially had problems starting when left for more than three days and it was thought it was the battery, this was checked and wasn't the problem. Found there was a current draw when the ignition was off and removed the battery which significantly reduced the current draw.
The next thought was that it was a fuelling issue. However this was disproved when having trouble starting the day after using it.
If it is used within three days it usually starts but after a long period of turning over.
Has anyone had this sort of problem before?
Long time to start and current draw
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Triumph1300
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- Location: Coventry
Re: Long time to start and current draw
Current draw is potentially the boot light
The long start after 3 days could be the fuel pump, letting fuel drain back.
The long start after 3 days could be the fuel pump, letting fuel drain back.
BWJ
1966 Triumph 1300 Royal Blue
1966 Triumph 2000 Blue
1965 Triumph 2000 black and rust
1967 BSA B40wd green
2018 Jaguar E pace 2018
NOBODY expects the Canley Inquisition!
1966 Triumph 1300 Royal Blue
1966 Triumph 2000 Blue
1965 Triumph 2000 black and rust
1967 BSA B40wd green
2018 Jaguar E pace 2018
NOBODY expects the Canley Inquisition!
Re: Long time to start and current draw
I'd hope that removing the battery would completely eliminate the current draw!
Maybe the petrol in the float chambers is evaporating, a bit unlikely at the current time of year over just three days, I'd have thought more like a week or two. Or you could have a leak from them. I personally would not point at the fuel pump draining back to the tank as being the cause, but you could try an inline filter as a cheap check, they're only £3-4.
Maybe the petrol in the float chambers is evaporating, a bit unlikely at the current time of year over just three days, I'd have thought more like a week or two. Or you could have a leak from them. I personally would not point at the fuel pump draining back to the tank as being the cause, but you could try an inline filter as a cheap check, they're only £3-4.
Current fleet: '75 Sprint, '73 1850, Daihatsu Fourtrak, Honda CG125, Yamaha Fazer 600, Shetland 570 (yes it's a boat!)
Past fleet: Triumph 2000, Lancia Beta Coupe, BL Mini Clubman, Austin Metro, Vauxhall Cavalier MK1 & MK2, Renault 18 D, Rover 216 GSI, Honda Accord (most expensive car purchase, hated, made out of magnetic metal as only car I've ever been crashed into...4 times), BMW 318, Golf GTi MK3 16v x 3
Past fleet: Triumph 2000, Lancia Beta Coupe, BL Mini Clubman, Austin Metro, Vauxhall Cavalier MK1 & MK2, Renault 18 D, Rover 216 GSI, Honda Accord (most expensive car purchase, hated, made out of magnetic metal as only car I've ever been crashed into...4 times), BMW 318, Golf GTi MK3 16v x 3
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Mad Mart
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Re: Long time to start and current draw
The clock is always drawing current. Not sure if it's a significant draw though.
Sprintless for the first time in 35+ years. 
... Still Sprintless.
Engines, Gearboxes, Overdrives etc. rebuilt. PM me.
2012 Porsche Boxster 981 S
... Still Sprintless.Engines, Gearboxes, Overdrives etc. rebuilt. PM me.
2012 Porsche Boxster 981 S
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gmsclassics
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Re: Long time to start and current draw
Yes, exactly the same. Turned out to be the stereo, which like the clock, is always drawing current. I assume it does this to keep all the presets stored. Only way to cure it was using one of those devices on the positive battery terminal that allows it to be quickly disconnected. Pain though having to retune the stereo and reset the clock every time it was used.
I've since changed the stereo to a current Sony model and and that has eliminated the problem. I can now leave the battery connected for weeks without use and it always starts first time on full choke. Plus with a bluetooth stereo I can legally answer my phone and listen to decent (my) music. That and remote central locking would be my two favourite modifications to the blue Sprint.
Geoff
PS. Assume your choke mechanism on the carbs is still correctly and fully functioning?
I've since changed the stereo to a current Sony model and and that has eliminated the problem. I can now leave the battery connected for weeks without use and it always starts first time on full choke. Plus with a bluetooth stereo I can legally answer my phone and listen to decent (my) music. That and remote central locking would be my two favourite modifications to the blue Sprint.
Geoff
PS. Assume your choke mechanism on the carbs is still correctly and fully functioning?
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Jon Tilson
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Re: Long time to start and current draw
Ballast bypass feed....probably not working properly and a slight drop in battery volts means poor starting.
Its unlikely that fuel evaporation in your float chamber is so bad they need to completely refill. Dropping the jet (what pulling the choke does) should deal
with that.
You can always whip a float chamber top off and have a look after its been standing.
Run a lead from ignition fed fuse terminal to coil plus and see if it starts better....dont leave it on after its started,. Works for me...
Jonners
Its unlikely that fuel evaporation in your float chamber is so bad they need to completely refill. Dropping the jet (what pulling the choke does) should deal
with that.
You can always whip a float chamber top off and have a look after its been standing.
Run a lead from ignition fed fuse terminal to coil plus and see if it starts better....dont leave it on after its started,. Works for me...
Jonners
Note from Admin: sadly Jon passed away in February 2018 but his humour and wealth of knowledge will be fondly remembered by all. RIP Jonners.
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Karlos
Re: Long time to start and current draw
Sounds like similar problem to mine but I attribute mine to a rubbish battery and fuel draining back to the tank:
I only use the car once or twice a week and if it has been left for more than 5 days it takes a while to start. Admittedly my battery isn't always fully charged. Short runs in the winter with lights, heater fan, heated rear window all on: these all contribute to the battery not getting a full charge.
I only get about 20s of fast cranking and if the engine has not fired by then I'm usually stuffed and have to get the battery charger out. This failure to start of course depletes the battery further, so I am caught in a cycle of discharge and limited re-charge.
If I use the car daily it fires up after about 2-4 seconds. In my case it is due to a poor battery charge and long periods of standing between use. There is some drain from the immobiliser and the clock, but that is negligible I think. I did try a solar powered trickle charger, but it turned out to be useless in the winter - waste of £18 - I would be better off getting a new battery and making sure the alternator output is sufficient.
It may be worth checking the points gap and that the points are clean and not pitted (if you have points) also check the plug gaps and see if they are wet with fuel next time it struggles to start - if they are dry it could be the fuel pump mentioned by Triumph1300 previously.
I only use the car once or twice a week and if it has been left for more than 5 days it takes a while to start. Admittedly my battery isn't always fully charged. Short runs in the winter with lights, heater fan, heated rear window all on: these all contribute to the battery not getting a full charge.
I only get about 20s of fast cranking and if the engine has not fired by then I'm usually stuffed and have to get the battery charger out. This failure to start of course depletes the battery further, so I am caught in a cycle of discharge and limited re-charge.
If I use the car daily it fires up after about 2-4 seconds. In my case it is due to a poor battery charge and long periods of standing between use. There is some drain from the immobiliser and the clock, but that is negligible I think. I did try a solar powered trickle charger, but it turned out to be useless in the winter - waste of £18 - I would be better off getting a new battery and making sure the alternator output is sufficient.
It may be worth checking the points gap and that the points are clean and not pitted (if you have points) also check the plug gaps and see if they are wet with fuel next time it struggles to start - if they are dry it could be the fuel pump mentioned by Triumph1300 previously.