I see that the later Sprints had bigger wheel studs (7/16") than the original 3/8". Does this mean that the wheels themselves were different? If yes, how do you tell which wheel you have?
I am looking at a set of Sprint wheels and need to know if they will fit on an 1850HL. If the wheels will fit on 3/8" studs, do you have to have the correct Sprint wheel nuts or will the existing ones work? Finally, if these particular wheels are for the 7/16" stud only, can these larger studs be fitted to an 1850HL?
So many questions!
Mike
Mike
(1969 MGB GTV8, 1977 Dolomite 1850HL, 1971 MGB roadster now all three on the road)
The wheels are the same regardless, finding good 3/8 nuts is tricky though. I have a roses tin full of about 120 nuts, none of which are 3/8" unfortunately.
Mark
1961 Chevrolet Corvair Greenbrier Sportswagon
1980 Dolomite Sprint project using brand new shell
2009 Mazda MX5 2.0 Sport
2018 Infiniti Q30
The Sprint nuts are different in that they are sleeved. The holes in the wheels are much bigger than the studs and the nuts locate on the holes in the wheels. As Mark has pointed out, the wheels are the same regardless of the thread size so you will need the correct nuts. The reason for the change was because the 3/8" studs were breaking on the Sprint so the thicker 5/16" studs were used on Sprints from 1976. I had a couple of studs break on me last year when I still had Sprint alloys on my 1850. I'm now on steel wheels so (hopefully) no more broken studs.
Toledo Man
West Yorkshire Area Organiser Meetings take place on the first Wednesday of the month at 8.00pm at The Railway, 1 Birstall Lane, Drighlington, Bradford, BD11 1JJ
2003 Volvo XC90 D5 SE (PX53 OVZ - The daily driver) 2009 Mercedes-Benz W204 C200 CDI Sport (BJ58 NCV - The 2nd car) 1991 Toyota Celica GT (J481 ONB - a project car)
Former stable of SAY 414M (1974 Toledo), GRH 244D (1966 1300fwd), CDB 324L (1973 1500fwd), GGN 573J (1971 1500fwd), DCP 625S (1977 Dolomite 1300) & LCG 367N (1975 Dolomite Sprint), NYE 751L (1972 Dolomite 1850 auto) plus 5 Acclaims and that's just the Triumphs!
On the front its not that difficult if you can find the studs...you just knock the old ones out and knock the new ones
in (they are splined). The front hubs come off quite easilly if it cant be done in situ. I cant remember as its been a while since I did one.
On the back its the same basic idea but you have to get the hub off, for which you need the special churchill puller.
Jonners
Note from Admin: sadly Jon passed away in February 2018 but his humour and wealth of knowledge will be fondly remembered by all. RIP Jonners.
On spitfires etc it is possible to drill a large hole (20mm ish) in the brake backplate in order to fit the big studs. Then use a grommit to seal the hole. Should work on an 1850??
Using incorrect nuts on wheels is potentially lethal, as in a killer, so don't risk it. Get the correct nuts....
It may be possible to use the M12 studs (freelander) and find suitable metric nuts? just a thought, certainly may be easier to replace in future.
I used 2000TC studs on my 1850. A slight mod is required to add a chamfer to the umderside of the stud head so that they fit flush in the hub. I also added a droplet of threadloc to the spline when I pulled the studs through.
I did not have to remove the hub either.
You can probably get the correct 3/8 sleeve nuts from Rimmers.
Well, thanks for all your replies. I have been offered a free 1850HL from my brother-in-law, and although I don't have the car yet, I couldn't resist a set of six Sprint alloys that came up for sale in Northern Ireland. I think the black plastic wheel trims used on later 1850s did nothing for the car's appearance.
A pal who lives over there went and bought them for me at a very reasonable price, knocking 25% off the asking price. The wheels need repainting but seem OK otherwise. So I will need 16 suitable wheel nuts. All I need now is the car, and to get over to NI to fetch my purchase!
Mike
Mike
(1969 MGB GTV8, 1977 Dolomite 1850HL, 1971 MGB roadster now all three on the road)
