I think my radiator is too big.....?

[tony g]

Bush failure, tooth failure (wear) seals to leak x3

Tony

[Karlos]

Agree with that Tony, I will add the seizing of the brass cage onto the block also.

Karlos can you tell me what is wrong with the original pump and what the advantages are of an ewp?

Jeroen

Jeroen, I think you already know these answers
Too be honest my EWP idea was only day-dreaming. The obvious advantage is the reduction of internal power loss of the engine as it will not have to turn the pump anymore - the battery/alternator can provide the power. In reality I think my EWP idea is more trouble than it is worth. However why was there an update from 6 to 12 vane pumps? Is there a known in-efficiency that has spawned EWPs and 12 vane impellers?

[mahony]

Excuses for my wild imagination first. Has anyone thought of
1.removing the mechanical water pump
2. Blank off the cavity where the old pump fitted.
3. Drill and bush a hole in the original pump cover
4. Fit a seal and shaft through the cover
5. Fit the original impeller to the shaft on the underside of the cover.
6. Fit an electric motor on top of the cover.

Space is tight underneath the inlet manifold but something may fit in there. For example a rearwindow wiper motor. I am sure there are people on the forum who could enhance and build something based on the above idea.

Advantages:
Retain the correct circulation round the engine and rad.
Pump itself becomes so much easier to remove and maintain.
You have all the advantages of the EWP controls.
Less pipe work to modify.
Disadvantages:
Bespoke solution
Could be difficult to do because of limited space

Karlos can you tell me what is wrong with the original pump and what the advantages are of an ewp?

Jeroen

In 31yrs of sprint ownership I have only had to rebuild the original water pump twice ( and have a rebuilt spare to hand ) , I'm with Jeroen the original pump is not that bad a setup

[Karlos]

I have owned 2 1850's and both needed the seals and bearing replacing on the pump. The first one the cage broke on removal. It is not a simple job to remove and replace and not simple particularly if it is on a vehicle that has been neglected for a long time.
The origonal pump does have the advantage of being repairble unlike many/most others.
So +1 for the mechanical one.

[Jon Tilson]

There is nothing wrong with the OE pump...
I suspect the 12 vane was a carry over from the Stag.

Some racing Sprints allegedly had cavitation, so took half the vanes of the 12 van impeller.....go figure...

Years of bad mechanical practice is mostly to blame. Its a fiddly job, but lots of us have managed it.

You dont need to spend your money on EWP's if you dont want to...I'd rather spend it on other things.

Jonners

[Karlos]

Yep I don't have a problem with my OE pump. Just showing interest in what the guys who have EWP conversions are experiencing.

Wasn't your OE pump leaking due to the car being laid up over winter, Jonners?

I reckon most OE pumps are like Triggers brush: had it 15 years, 4 new heads and 3 new handles

[sprint95m]

There is nothing wrong with the OE pump...

I am not so sure that the other company to fit slant four engines agreed.....

Saab spent a lot of time (and money no doubt) trying to address what they (and probably their customers) saw as its shortcomings.
They came up with a different impeller (6 vane) and then redesigned the pump altogether (making it rebuildable in situ to ensure alignment (99 Turbo))
before going for an external pump (on the 900), this one being long lasting.





Ian.

[sprint95m]

I have received the remote thermostat so am going to install it, once I get the new hoses needed,
so hopefully next week I'll have the car going again.

Fitted the remote thermostat and got the car running.
I had to fit the fan's sensor into the inlet manifold adjacent to the temp. gauge sensor.

The RT fits nicely into the LH top hose and the radiator bypass hose is easily routed to the bottom hose,
however I am not really happy with the heater and header tank hoses because accessing the dipstick is a little bit awkward
so, given that it is easy to do I am going to alter these. Just waiting on a length of suitable hose.



Ian.

[soe8m]

I have received the remote thermostat so am going to install it, once I get the new hoses needed,
so hopefully next week I'll have the car going again.

Fitted the remote thermostat and got the car running.
I had to fit the fan's sensor into the inlet manifold adjacent to the temp. gauge sensor.

The RT fits nicely into the LH top hose and the radiator bypass hose is easily routed to the bottom hose,
however I am not really happy with the heater and header tank hoses because accessing the dipstick is a little bit awkward
so, given that it is easy to do I am going to alter these. Just waiting on a length of suitable hose.

Ian.

When I did the tr7 efi conversion I had to replace the dipstick. I used I thought some long jaguar one and made of copper 8mm tube the new tube. I did connect the tube with a piece of 8mm fuel hose.

Jeroen

[sprint95m]

Thanks Jeroen.


I was aware, having studied photos of your installation, that you had improved the dipstick's location.
My target is still to convert to EFI next winter, so will leave the dipstick as it is until then.


Ian.

[tony g]

Ian, did you re drill for the sensor? After the plumbing and running was the heater better? (apart from the hose routing ) Any pics of the RT install?

Cheers


Tony

[sprint95m]

Drilled a 12mm hole and tapped it for M14.

The heater works. It is better than with the Davies Craig controller because the coolant comes up to temperature!



Once I have the plumbing finished I'll post some photos (should manage Friday evening).




Ian.

[tony g]

Nice one looking forward to seeing them.

Cheers

Tony

[sprint95m]

Here you go Tony,…..

Remote thermostat housing

The hose size on the RTH is 35mm but a good quality 32mm silicone hose will fit (Venair or ASH for example).
A 19cm length of straight 32mm hose is connected from the bypass outlet to a 90 degree elbow (blue) which is connected to
the 45 degree elbow pictured below, part of the four into one bespoke manifold….

The alloy T-pice is fitted into the bottom radiator hose.
The hose T-piece (25mm) spout is connected to the heater return and header tank
(I used a Y-piece for this, sited close to the clutch master cylinder).

In the top picture you can just see the radiator fan's sender unit fitted into the inlet manifold.

The space between the battery and alternator is just sufficient for this hose arrangement,
however I do have a smaller (high output Bosch) alternator to fit which will give more clearance
as well as the higher output.

The standard 16ACR alternator seems to cope okay when all the electrics are switched on
(electric water pump, cooling fan, heated back window, main beam, heater).



What I need to do now is drive the car for the next several months to form a definite impression of how this set up performs.
After their shenanigans I don't have any faith in Davies,Craig products so may well bite the bullet and import a Stewart pump from the USA.



hope the photos are helpful,



Ian.

[tony g]

Nice one Ian thanks a lot. Hope it works out. As it is now do you get better heater flow? Is the controller still being used as normal? Just wondering the temp you set it at so it doesnt clash with thermostat settings.

Tony