Powerspark ignition.....

[shaunroche]

I bought a Powerspark because of recommendations on here...after spending in excess of £20k on this restoration, I think we're a bit past buying cheap bits......

[Mahesh]

I tried the magnetronic with the same results, and went for the 123 (to be fitted) but now worried after Jeroens comment.

[tony g]

I tried the magnetronic with the same results, and went for the 123 (to be fitted) but now worried after Jeroens comment.

Jeroens comment related to the wrong coil being used. If yours has the resistance figures he quoted as good you'll be fine

Tony

[longboarder]

I fitted a powerspark, two wires and fingers crossed. Works fine, no trouble in 3 years, very happy.

[Carledo]

Once working and all correctly adjusted for timing and airgap clearance, i've never had any problems with the dozen or so Powerspark setups that I have fitted in the last 5 years or so. Nor have I had a duff module "out of the box". One or two (particularly the early Rover V8 one I had to do in a Stag) needed a drastic retime, but the only problem i've had was a malfitting magnet ring on a Triumph 2000. A quick phone call and the correct one was with me in the next mornings post. So I have no complaints about them whatsoever.

Steve

[misterp]

Happy to report..the new module works like a charm.
It's a K7 pickup with a K4 collar (4 pickup points).

Nice strong spark, starts from cold after a few sec's cranking and no timing wander (using the timing gun, the mark stays rock solid).

Finally..happy chappy.☺

[soe8m]

When you are not sure of the coil and don't want to fry your ignition module you can put a 5 amp fuse between the coil - (1) and ignition module. This way max 5 amp can be switched what is normal for an conventional ignition. A wrong coil can draw 8 amps trough your electronic ignition and have it burned inside but cannot now because of the fuse.

Jeroen

[Jon Tilson]

Nice one...

Jonners

[Mahesh]

Good idea to fuse, cheaper too

[Mad Mart]

My second module is still not producing a spark. I just want to check I wired this correctly. I am using a brand new 1.5ohm coil and it checks out ok at 1.5 ohms (and working fine on points). I have the ballasted ignition wire connected to the +ve side of the coil and the rev counter lead to the -ve. I then connected the red lead of the module to the +ve terminal of the coil and the black lead from the module to the -ve terminal of the coil. When I switch on the ignition (engine not running) I have 12V on both terminals of the coil.

[Jon Tilson]

So your module is only getting its nominal 12V when the starter is cranking.
Power the red lead from ignition fuse non fused side for full 12V.

Even so these modules usually do some switching even at 6V...

Yours looks to be switched off all the time.

Jonners

[marko]

I bought this kit for my 1500 and ended up having to file the holes on the base plate to get it close enough to the magnetic triggers in either the black rotor arm or the red rotor arm with the ring underneath, which are actually different diameters! I am still running it but really am not happy with it so after talking to a local mini garage racer chap I think I'll be returning to points and condenser as he runs on his race minis (same 45d dizzy). I'd love to go for megajolt but don't want to change the look from standard.
I personally wouldn't recommend the powerspark ignition system bit it is a cheap alternative.

[Mad Mart]

Cranking at 9.7V.

[Mahesh]

From what I make of the electronic modules, most I've come across run on the same principle,

The module grounds (-12v) on the distributor base plate,
The red lead goes to the unused ign fuse box connector,
The black lead from the module triggers the coil on the negative (-) connector,

Thus a constant voltage is present, and only the black trigger lead needs a ohm check from the coil.

If wrong please do enlighten.

[Jon Tilson]

That's because your voltage drops when the car is cranking.

Jonners