Correct coil for Magnetronic Lumenition in a Sprint.

[Jon Tilson]

Sweet...

Given that my own experience and attitude to NGK plus is a purely personal one even though experienced based it would be nice
to have a more scientific explanation for this.

I suspect its to do with your NGK plugs being resistive when they shouldn't be. Or the other way round....

Jeroen will doubtless offer some sort of theory in due course...

Jonners

[Yellow Banana]

Thought I saw a reply from Tony McKillop last night but can't see it now. Anyway, off to Stafford now - hopefully all the way in the Sprint. Will pick this thread up on my return Monday. Cheers all.

[mahony]

Joiners you are a wizard!!!!! Just come back from a 45 min hard hilly fast drive (on dual c/way too) and only just one very minor hiccup after changing plugs to new Unipart gapped to 30 thou. Coil is still quite warm but not very hot as reported previously. Do all coils heat up?

Mahoney - did read the post, thanks but my system is a Lumenition Magnatronic not Optronic. Have ditched my DLB 105 for the blue Bosch.

Thanks all for your (oft confusing/conflicting) advice. Nice to know there is a big pool of info out there.

The thread i posted was for a magnetronic and not a optronic and the same MKT0007 Lumenition system that you have

[Yellow Banana]

Cheers Mahoney. Thought I saw "Optronic" in your other post.

[mahony]

Cheers Mahoney. Thought I saw "Optronic" in your other post.

You did but that was what Matt wrote in his post, all good now anyway

[Yellow Banana]

Rats!! Looks like I spoke too soon Jonners. Never made it to Stafford on Friday. By the time I got to Exeter and joined the orderly queue (congestion) on and off up to Weston-S-Mare, the misfire returned and got so bad I decided to return to Plymouth. Guess what? The bloody car ran as sweet as a nut all the way back to Plymouth!! RRRRRAAAAATTTTTSSSSS!!

Got a diagnostic guy out this morning (trusted) who checked both my DLB105 and the new Bosch and both were fine. Given the symptoms his recommendation was the Lumenition MKT007 was faulty - it has been fine for the first five or so years it has been fitted. Took the Sprint out for a quick check run and the problem is still there. Why is this ok sometimes but not always?

Anyway, I bought a new MKT007 unit about a month ago just in case I needed to swap it but the diagnostician suggested I get one of the Accuspark units. Over half the cost but more reliable. Trouble is, looking at some reviews not all of them good. Anyone have one in their jalopy and are they recommended? According to Accuspark website they don't list a unit for the Dolomite 1850/Sprint - only the 1300/1500. They do list one for the 1500 Spitfire which has the 45D4 distributor but again, nothing for the 44D4 which the Sprint has so not sure which one to opt for unless I contact them.

[GTS290N]

They have one for the TR7, same as the 1850 and some Vauxhalls, I have this fitted to my 1850.
Last time I looked they didn't do one for the Sprint....

[Jon Tilson]

There are only a couple of reasons why the leccy unit won't trigger properly.

So eliminate the easy ones be making sure you have rock solid connections to the plus side and the trigger side, and then the earth cable in the dissy itself which is the joiner between the top plate and the body that was maybe once hooked up to the condensor.

If you are getting the same symptoms with either coil it looks like the unit or a dodgy feed or earth. Also how is your ignition switch?

You can bypass that by temporarily hot wiring the lot from the unswitched fuse live side....obviously dont leave it like that...but it will eliminate the switch as the possible source of grief.

Magnetronics are normally dead reliable -as they should be for what they cost!

Jonners

[Yellow Banana]

I saw that Accuspark do one for the TR6 and 7 but both have different dizzies so unlikely to fit the Sprint.

Jonners - have checked the gap between the underside of the disc and top surface of the module and I can slide a 1.5 mm (1 x 0.80 and 1 x 0.70) feeler gauge nicely between the two (as recommended in the Lumenition fitting guide so one positive there. Will check your suggestions out tomorrow. Many thanks

[GlenM]

I have an Accuspark unit fitted to a 1500 Midget and it seems to be pretty good. I had a query about which coil I should fit to it and they were very helpful. I ended up buying the trigger unit fitted to a brand new distributor. I would give them a call, or contact them through e-bay, and explain what you need, they may well have something that will fit the Sprint.

[Yellow Banana]

Thanks GlenM. Judging by just your and one other reply I gather that the Accuspark isn't widely fitted. Will contact them anyway.

[Jon Tilson]

The accuspark and any other of the cheap modules will NOT fit a Sprint dizzy.
The only one is the magnetronic. All the others foul the low set rotor arm you need with the OE sprint cap.

Some folks have managed it with an Ambassador (taller) cap and std Spit/mini 45D rotor. It looks crap....but works allegedly.

Cheapskates like me use the maplin kit and keep the points as a switch. Works fine and is 12 quid.

Jonners

[Yellow Banana]

Had a feeling that was the case Jonners, thanks for that. Don't really fancy a non standard (Ambassador) cap.

Will get onto checking all the readings tomorrow (been busy collecting stone for my wall today) but did check the earth wire condition and tightness inside the dizzy which was fine, but, one thing I had forgotten to note since when I'd first fitted the Lumenition is this. When placing the magnetic disc over the dizzy shaft it lays directly on top of the trigger unit - in other words - the 1.5mm "air gap" the instructions specify is not possible. So, in order to acheive this I fitted a small rubber 'o' ring down the dizzy shaft butting it up to the shoulder, then placed the magnetic disc on the shaft. This then provided the gap.

Have any other Sprint owners with Lumenition fitted done this or any other 'mod' to resolve this???

[Yellow Banana]

Am resurrecting this post from Aug 2016 as - like a numpty (I was going to use something a bit more obscene!!) - I seem to have mis-wired my leccy ignition set up. My fault as I disconnected the wiring and the coil so I could renovate engine bay ready for the TDCIR in Sept. Anyway I noticed that on the first run out since putting it all back a week or so ago the coil is getting hot even after a sedate 2 mile run out to get my headlamp alignment adjusted.

I have had a good year or so without issues but when I had another problem with the ignition I spoke to Autocar Electrical (AE) and was advised to fit one of their Lumenition Megaspark coils which has been running absolutely fine up until the recent disconnection.

My set up is:

Magnetronic MKT007 fitted in my 44D4 dizzy with the Megaspark coil, which I'm led to understand is a 12v coil. The coil came with a ballast resister unit which the coil label says to fit unless there is another suitable resister available. When speaking to AE I think I was advised that I didn't need to fit the resistor supplied nor to connect the in loom resistor. I have a separate feed to the coil positive terminal from the fuse box white switched live terminal. Also connected to the coil positive is the white/yellow from starter motor(?). The white/slate wire (from the tacho) is connected to the coil negative terminal. The Magnetronic red wire goes to the coil positive terminal and the black wire to the coil negative terminal. The black/white wire to the coil negative (showing in the wiring diagram as for the distributor) has been removed when fitting the Magnetronic.

I've been advised that when reconnecting all the wiring I may have inadvertently shorted the separate feed wire going to the coil as I originally connected it the the brown permanent live supply at the fuse box but as the car starts up fine and runs ok I don't think thaty is the case. The fuse has not blown at any time. Where have I gone wrong? I'm defo not an electrician so if you have any thoughts please keep them simple!! Cheers all

[GinettaG15]

the NGK´s are not bad in general....but i had certain failures of new NGK´s in my Ford Pinto and Ford x/flow powered cars in the past as well.

some say its the quality of NGK....but meanwhile i think its not NGK´s fault:

lots of places are selling NGK´s which are in reality fakes from china. this said: i aways bought mine online for cheap as chips and often wondered why the prices differ so much between the sellers or physical shops....cheap = china?