Does anyone have a picture of the mounting block that screws to the body over the front window for the rear view mirror on a 1973 Sprint?
Or even better, a useable one to sell?
Graham
Sprint R.V. mirror mounting
- GrahamFountain
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Sprint R.V. mirror mounting
The 16v Slant 4 engine is more fun than the 3.5 V8, because you mostly drive it on the upslope of the torque curve.
Factory 1977 TR7 Sprint FHC VVC 697S (Now all of, but still needs putting together)
B&Y 73 Dolomite Sprint UVB 274M (kids!)
1970 Maroon 13/60 Herald Convertable (wife's fun car).
Factory 1977 TR7 Sprint FHC VVC 697S (Now all of, but still needs putting together)
B&Y 73 Dolomite Sprint UVB 274M (kids!)
1970 Maroon 13/60 Herald Convertable (wife's fun car).
- xvivalve
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Re: Sprint R.V. mirror mounting
You will only find a useable one to sell still attached to the mirror. The plastic mounting block is designed to split in two, releasing the mirror at the ball joint should the car be involved in an accident and someones head hits the mirror. It is a safety device; if you separate the mirror at the ball joint it is virtually impossible to reattach it satisfactorily.
You missed a NOS RV mirror in Ted's stuff last week.
I think I have a couple of used ones around complete with the mounting block
You missed a NOS RV mirror in Ted's stuff last week.
I think I have a couple of used ones around complete with the mounting block
Re: Sprint R.V. mirror mounting
Steve and Nic
1979 Dolomite Sprint Brooklands Green.
Ever increasing box of spares.
Larger garage needed
1979 Dolomite Sprint Brooklands Green.
Ever increasing box of spares.
Larger garage needed
- GrahamFountain
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- Location: St Annes on Sea, Lancs.
Re: Sprint R.V. mirror mounting
I'll give that a g. As a back up plan, I've ordered one of these:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/351819890864? ... EBIDX%3AIT
Anybody tired one?
On the issue of filling the back with a poxy glue, sorry epoxy: the mirror stem goes back in the socket after it's set?
Graham
The 16v Slant 4 engine is more fun than the 3.5 V8, because you mostly drive it on the upslope of the torque curve.
Factory 1977 TR7 Sprint FHC VVC 697S (Now all of, but still needs putting together)
B&Y 73 Dolomite Sprint UVB 274M (kids!)
1970 Maroon 13/60 Herald Convertable (wife's fun car).
Factory 1977 TR7 Sprint FHC VVC 697S (Now all of, but still needs putting together)
B&Y 73 Dolomite Sprint UVB 274M (kids!)
1970 Maroon 13/60 Herald Convertable (wife's fun car).
-
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Re: Sprint R.V. mirror mounting
When I did it I put it together before the resin set.
- GrahamFountain
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- Joined: Sun Sep 08, 2013 3:35 pm
- Location: St Annes on Sea, Lancs.
Re: Sprint R.V. mirror mounting
Well it's epoxied together and hung back up. I made sure the fill and screws weren't proud of the edge of the hollow, even made it a bit concave left to right. But the captive nuts are sunk in a bit, and overtightening would still stress the mount, bending it up at the ends. Might be better for a couple of penny washers above the mount. If it shows signs of vibrating loose, I'll give that a try.
I put the arm back in with the resin mostly set, and a G-cramp holding the mount together. But the ball's a bit slack in the socket now and doesn't feel very good. It won't fall out, and I can adjust and dip the mirror okay, but it may wander around a bit - I'll see tomorrow.
Still waiting for the new, replacement mount from ANG to turn up, and not sure I'm brave enough to dislocate the repaired one to try it - slack as it is. It does look like the mount and arm are designed to be separated without it failing, there are slots around the socket to alow it to distort enough. But I guess the plastic has just got hard and brittle in the more than 40 year since it was made. Maybe, if the replacement looks the part, I'll just bung it in the glove box with the wheel-nut adaptor and spare points.
If I do find the chutzpah to seperate them, I may look at tightening the ball up with some epoxy inside the socket and some release agent on the ball. I'm a bit worried about the ball's getting too lose in the warm weather - whenever that might be.
Graham
I put the arm back in with the resin mostly set, and a G-cramp holding the mount together. But the ball's a bit slack in the socket now and doesn't feel very good. It won't fall out, and I can adjust and dip the mirror okay, but it may wander around a bit - I'll see tomorrow.
Still waiting for the new, replacement mount from ANG to turn up, and not sure I'm brave enough to dislocate the repaired one to try it - slack as it is. It does look like the mount and arm are designed to be separated without it failing, there are slots around the socket to alow it to distort enough. But I guess the plastic has just got hard and brittle in the more than 40 year since it was made. Maybe, if the replacement looks the part, I'll just bung it in the glove box with the wheel-nut adaptor and spare points.
If I do find the chutzpah to seperate them, I may look at tightening the ball up with some epoxy inside the socket and some release agent on the ball. I'm a bit worried about the ball's getting too lose in the warm weather - whenever that might be.
Graham
The 16v Slant 4 engine is more fun than the 3.5 V8, because you mostly drive it on the upslope of the torque curve.
Factory 1977 TR7 Sprint FHC VVC 697S (Now all of, but still needs putting together)
B&Y 73 Dolomite Sprint UVB 274M (kids!)
1970 Maroon 13/60 Herald Convertable (wife's fun car).
Factory 1977 TR7 Sprint FHC VVC 697S (Now all of, but still needs putting together)
B&Y 73 Dolomite Sprint UVB 274M (kids!)
1970 Maroon 13/60 Herald Convertable (wife's fun car).